iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Preventing rust on planer infeed deck

Started by dustintheblood, December 03, 2019, 11:42:33 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

dustintheblood

Hi all,

Just picked up a new helical planer and it's setup in a large building that isn't heated.   Does anyone have tips or tricks on how to keep the rust away, especially on the deck?
Case 75C, Case 1494, RangeRoad RR10T36, Igland 4001, Hardy 1400ST, WM LT40HD, WM Edger, ICS DH Kiln

dirtmotor

Might sound crazy but I use lemon pledge on mine .
I just spray and wipe every time I finish using it .

Old Greenhorn

Always had this problem in my shop. I started cleaning the machines after use, the laying on a coat of WD-40. Just wipe it off before the next session. Never cover the machines with anything air/water tight. If you do cover them, keep it very loose and use cotton or canvas drop cloths. Covering can help keep the descending 'dew' from hitting the machined surfaces, but it needs to breath easily. 
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Woodpecker52

car wax! made for steel and the outdoors!
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor

A-z farmer

I agree with woodpecker on the wax.
Woodmaster recommends furniture paste wax such as minwax .They say to rewax it for six weeks then as needed.I put it on my 725 bed even though it is covered up by poly because our workshop is only heated during the day .

moodnacreek

Motor oil/wax. If you do eastern red cedar don't use wd 40.

luap

I agree with the paste wax. WD-40 has a solvent that is good for removing bug guts from your car and attracting fish to your lure and very short term lubricant but not a good metal protector.

YellowHammer

I use Johnson paste wax or beeswax from Lowes.

The best way I've found is to use a directional work light bulb and hang it over the planer, so that it lights the bed and keeps it slightly warmer than the surrounding area.  Then no water vapor will condense on it, and it will not rust.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

dustintheblood

Definitely wax will be the way to go, but we're now down to daytimes of -15c (5f) and I'm pretty sure the wax won't adhere.

I'm leaning towards oil for the winter, and really like Yellowhammer's idea.

For sure it will be kept clean each and every time.
Case 75C, Case 1494, RangeRoad RR10T36, Igland 4001, Hardy 1400ST, WM LT40HD, WM Edger, ICS DH Kiln

btulloh

HM126

WDH

I use this to keep the planer bed slick.  It helps to prevent rust, too. 

Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

markdvsmo

I've had pretty good luck with Boeshield T-9.  Needs to be reapplied every few months, but it's a lot easier than messing with paste wax.

YellowHammer

My stuff is out in an non climate controlled shed so it really sees temperature and humidity swings.  When the temps start changing and the humidity climbs and I see all the condensation forming on the cold metal everywhere else, the lights are on and the machinery is warm, dry dry and cozy.

At some times of the year, especially early spring, I use floodlights or sunlamps, the ones for keeping animals warm in place of incandescent bulbs.  They provide lots of light to work with, and it can be a cold, nasty humid morning and when I turn on the equipment, the belts, bearings, oil, everything is a nice warm temerpature and the machine lights right up with no squeeling or belt slips.  The deck is shiny and there is no wax residue.  

I do use wax, but I've seen heavy condensation form on the machinery in just a few hours without the lights shining in it, especially in Spring.    



  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

btulloh

YH has a good plan with those lights.  I should start lights on my stuff to prevent the condensation.  Just requires a little more discipline on my part.

Markdvsmo mentioned Boeshield T-9 which is also a very good product and a good thing to have in the arsenal.  I have yet to determine whether the Boeshield or the Balistol is better, but they're both good and very similar.

Condensation is a constant battle for me.
HM126

doc henderson

I have made thousands of engraved coasters, but people still sit cold aluminum cans on my table saw, as it is surrounded by stools to sit on.  after hours of course!   smiley_beertoast
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Thank You Sponsors!