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Need advice on building a log arch from available steel

Started by chainsaw_louie, May 31, 2012, 11:12:08 PM

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36 coupe

The axle to tube joint looks weak.I made a box  of 1/2 inch steel then put a stub axle inside the box.I used 1/4 inch wall square tubing to build the rig.I bought the hubs bearings and stub axles new for less than 40 bucks.I had the wheels and winch on hand.Total cost was 200.00 10 years ago.The legs on my rig are angled so no problems with tires rubbing.

Hilltop366

A good hole saw will cut good joints and through holes for welding, best to use them in a drill press as you will need to turn them slow for steel.

chainsaw_louie

Slowly but surely this pjt has been coming along.
I think that I made it too tall.  I must have been thinking that for cruising down the interstate at 50mph I have to have to log high off the road !  It could be 12" shorter....next build will be shorter.


I think it will be strong enough, the pipe is 3.5" and is plenty heavy.


To make the joints I used the tubing coping pattern maker at http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi , I couldn't have made the joints without it .




The next step is to build the tow assembly: it will be made of 2.5" pipe that slides inside the arm you see there,  I'll be able to extend the arm for longer logs.  Then I got to figure out the lifting and chaining arrangement..... its getting there !


kelLOGg

Nice work. It makes me nostalgic thinking of when I built mine.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

thecfarm

Too tall? Not for a 3 foot log.   ;D  No need to bring a smaller log to the top. You may like it that tall. How tall it is it,I can't tell.  :D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

justallan1

Very nice job, Louie.
I would surely run a piece on each side going from the hubs to the horizontal piece if you hadn't already planned on it. They would sure add a lot of strength for you.
Allan

Jemclimber

Quote from: justallan1 on March 04, 2013, 06:12:49 PM
Very nice job, Louie.
I would surely run a piece on each side going from the hubs to the horizontal piece if you hadn't already planned on it. They would sure add a lot of strength for you.
Allan
You definitely need those struts. It's looking very nice, and the extendable tongue is a great idea.
lt15

chainsaw_louie

Yep, the was wondering about struts or braces , will add em , thanks.

Its 4foot 4" from the ground to the bottom of the top cross member.


Two questions : 

Q1. Can log arches be used in a levering action to lift the logs, tilt the arch back with the tow arm up in the air 45 degrees,   then attach the chain around the log and finally pull down on the tow arm and the log should rise up, no?   They do this with the little log arches , it should work with the bigger ones.  If I have an extending tow arm that provides enough leverage , I am thinking that I may not need any winch.   

Q2. Whats the best hitch to put on this if I want to tow it with a car and loan it to guys with tractors. ?

Thanks.

chainsaw_louie


thecfarm

I would use a regular 2 inch receiver for the hitch part. One could be used for a car,truck,the hitch for the ball size would be a hard one. Than another could have just a hole in it to put a pin through for the tractor.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

chainsaw_louie

Today , we had the maiden voyage of the log arch. It worked pretty well, I just used a come along and chain to hoist the log up. It dragged a bit on the tail , but now I can move logs by myself with now additional machinery. That's very sweet!

I think that I'll add a stabilizer onto the arm that I can attach to the front of the log to keep it from bobbing up and down while transporting .  The poplar log which is on there probably weighs 1700 lbs.



  

 

-Tim

shinnlinger

I like the tow vehicle!   If you put an inverted Y at the front of your arch to cradle the top of the log as you pull it up, you will be able to lift the tail.  Good work!
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

chainsaw_louie

Thx.  I'm trying to figure out the best design for the inverted 'Y' you mentioned .....it has to be height adjustable: low for the little logs and high for the big ones.  Was thinking of some arrangement with all thread that I could adjust by turning ....or maybe telescoping tubes if I can find 3 pieces of steel pipe that fit inside each other ....or a tube welded to the side of the tow arm that a pipe can slide up and down with a bolt to secure it at the correct height ....thiinking.

shinnlinger

How would a scissor jack welded/attached under where your have two stripes (duct tape?) work?  I could also see putting some kind of toe/shelf/spike at the front of the arch the log catches on and then you could pull up at the back of the log up while the front stays stuck
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

thecfarm

I would try the scissor jack with the inverted Y welded to the "top" of it. Or A piece within a piece,as you said. I would almost think a hole right through the piece and a pin would hold it better. Lot of weight up against the "Y"
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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