Timber Quality

[FrankLad]

Mr. Chris Koehn (TimberGuides) is coming down later in the year (maybe the end of October) to start work on our timber frame.  He and his wife designed it, based on some rough outlines by my wife and me and they had someone else do the engineering aspect of it.

It has been designed for #1 baldcypress.  This was our preference due to having a local sawyer who cuts cypress.  Also, Mr. Chris likes to work with cypress, so that's an extra bonus.

According to our sawyer, he cuts "#2 and better".  ...but he also assured me it was "structural".

So my concern is getting the quality called for in the plans.  I've heard that some sawyers throw in the "#2" thing to sorta cover themselves if something comes up later (bad piece of timber).

I've heard the descriptions of what #1, #2, and Clear wood is, mostly based on knots, check, wayne, etc.  but just how bad is #2?

...would it be that more than likely that most of the timber would be #1?

Any help with understanding grading would be very appreciated.

[beenthere]

The question of grade will depend on who's rules are being used to grade the baldcypress. Getting a copy of those rules will give you the information about the #2 grade that will be included.
One has to assume when buying #2 and better, that all the yield from the logs are included, and that some of the top grade material hasn't been creamed off. Otherwise, there may not be any #1 or better with the #2.  The percentage of of each grade if log run will be dependent on the quality of the logs that were sawn. If high quality logs, then naturally there will be more high quality lumber.

Important here is the structural applications, and if so the #1 and better pieces will need to be sorted from the #2. 
There are Cypress grading rules within the NHLA (National Hardwood Lumber Association) rule book and include;
Factory grades such as Selects, No. 1 Shop, No. 2 Shop etc.
Finish Lumber; Clear Heartwood, A, B, C and D grades
Common Lumber: No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3

and Cypress Timbers graded; (structural quality implied here)
Square Edge and Sound Timbers
No. 1 Common Timbers
No. 2 Common Timbers
No. 3 Common Timbers.

[Jim_Rogers]

FrankLad:
You should ask your sawyer if he understands the "grade rules" and how they are applied.
If he can't tell you the difference between a #2 and a #1 then you'd better have someone who can tell you look at your timbers.
There are many factors/rules to consider when grading a timber. If one rule doesn't pass then the whole timber doesn't pass and is bumped down to the next lower grade rule.

You may have to ask your sawyer if you can return for replacement any timber that your timber framer says isn't good enough.

Hopefully you'll get some good stuff, and Chris will be happy....

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers