LT15 Just starting out! Get the blade on!

[Randy Richy]

Heya,

I have been lurking for years, absorbing all the great advice and expertise you all have! Thank you so much.

So just got my new LT15, 19 hp w sidelap. 

I meticulously set up the mill and I am all ready to do my first log tomorrow!  I saw posts like these over the years and it seemed over exciting.  But now, I understand!

Only one task left - putting the blade on.  The blade tensioner is at the lower position (most slack) and I am putting a WM 10 degree blade on (ordered 15 of these with the mill).  But the blade seems to need about 1/2" more slack to put the blade on.

YouTube videos show the blade going on relatively easily. 

I must be doing something wrong - does anyone have any suggestions????

Thanks so much!
Randy

[drobertson]

Not sure bout that mill, seems like it should go on pretty easy though, someone will chime in,  happy for you!

[Magicman]

Hello    Randy Richy, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.   

[rjwoelk]

Yes they can be difficult. I put mine on the idler then slowly turn the wheel and work them on. Helps with 2 people.

[Brad_bb]

I have an LT15.  Get the band in position and put the band on the wheel on the operator side first.  Then fit it on the other wheel starting at the top .  There should be enough slack that it's not a problem.  The band will hit the drive V-belt which is loose.  Just tuck it into the wheel as you fit the band around the wheel.  You'll get the hang of it quick. 

FYI, you're likely going to have issues with a 10 degree blade on your mill.  Get 4 degree blades.   4 degree takes less of a bite.  Higher degree blades take more HP to drive that band to take a bigger bite of the wood.   On your mill the 10 degree will slow down enough during the cut that you'll get wavy cuts in hardwood.  I don't cut softwood, so not sure how it would react there.  I cut Osage with 4 degree and usually get a good cut.  I had real issues with Osage, Ash etc when I was trying 7 degree and 9 degree blades.  If you don't use them, maybe you could resell the 10 degree to another sawyer here in the for sale section, or maybe woodmizer would take them back and exchange if unused?

[WV Sawmiller]

Randy,

   Not sure if its the same but I put mine on the drive side first then on top of the idler side and generally turn the idler wheel counterclockwise until it finishes slipping on the idler wheel.

[Randy Richy]

Thanks all for those suggestions.

I am putting it on the operator side first and then the other wheel, starting from the top.  Reverted to trying a screw driver to slowly work it on.  Tried rotating the wheel, but the operator side wheel doesn't move.

I will give it another go  this morning.

Thanks Brad about the 10 degree blade insight.  I have also 2 9 degree blades.  Going to be doing Yellow Popular 2x6s first.

Thanks again everyone!
Randy

[millwright]

Take a stick and wedge the clutch handle a little bit to allow the band wheels to turn, then just walk the blade on.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Randy.

[dgdrls]

Welcome to FF Randy,

Lots of WM guys here to help you.
let us know how you make out,

D

[WDH]

Try pulling the Idle side wheel toward the drive side wheel.  It may be stuck and not moving even though the blade tensioner is slack.   

[stanwelch]

All good suggestions above. I put blade on drive side first then work blade on the idle side starting from the bottom and rotate clockwise. Works best for me --maybe because I'm left handed

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
  Sometimes the wheel belts are sticking out a little more on a new LT15. You can back off the blade tension screw a little, put the blade on and then readjust the blade tension. I would also start the engine and rotate the blade real slowly with the covers closed. Slipping the clutch so it makes a couple rotations. Turn off the engine. Then readjust the tension on the blade. You need to be careful grabbing the wheel at the spokes and turning the wheel to track it in. I think we all have done this but I have also been to the emergency room once when a glove caught the tooth and pulled in a hand. So practice Safety First.
Once you run the mill and saw a log or two, the blade will go on easier once the belts have seated.

Hope this helps.
Marty

[tnaz]

Another welcome and hope you got it sawing now.

Terry

[Randy Richy]

Thanks again to everyone for the warm welcome and the advice.

It was the tensioner - it was way cranked the other way, loosened it up and the blade went on relatively smoothly!!!

Cut up one log; That ONE log - for those that like a little story..... 6 months ago, I was about to set up the used LT15 I bought used.  However, a storm came by and a tree apparently did a preemptive strike - it landed dead on the main mast and totaled the mill.  So of all the trees on my property, only one was within striking distance and that is the only one that fell.  And of all the different angles it could have fallen, it fell directly onto my mill..... so fast forward 6 months, my new LT15 took revenge and milled that one tree that did the preemptive strike on my other sawmill.

So it has taken awhile, but I am back in the game.

I have been reading this site for a long time now and so many tips and tricks actually came in hand and really made getting up and running a lot smoother than otherwise.

Thanks ALL and Happy Labor Day!
Randy

[Kbeitz]

So.... What happened to the old mill ???

[Randy Richy]

Well the old sawmill head/mask/etc is set aside as waste  :-(.  The three tracks I am sanding down to get the rust off, paint it Husqvarna color (close enough and $11/can cheaper - takes 3 cans per track) and connect it all up.  I will have 39'6" of track!  I purchased the lapsider (12') so I will put that at the far end of the tracks.  This way, I can mill and then do lapsiding without having to put on/take off the lapsider.

[Kbeitz]

Got any pictures of the opps....

[1Cross1WayLT15]

See Marty parsons above. I had the same problem and used the same fix 2 weeks ago. I'll use some of the others on my next change out.

[alanh]

I have an LT15.  Get the band in position and put the band on the wheel on the operator side first.  Then fit it on the other wheel starting at the top .  There should be enough slack that it's not a problem.  The band will hit the drive V-belt which is loose.  Just tuck it into the wheel as you fit the band around the wheel.  You'll get the hang of it quick. 

FYI, you're likely going to have issues with a 10 degree blade on your mill.  Get 4 degree blades.   4 degree takes less of a bite.  Higher degree blades take more HP to drive that band to take a bigger bite of the wood.   On your mill the 10 degree will slow down enough during the cut that you'll get wavy cuts in hardwood.  I don't cut softwood, so not sure how it would react there.  I cut Osage with 4 degree and usually get a good cut.  I had real issues with Osage, Ash etc when I was trying 7 degree and 9 degree blades.  If you don't use them, maybe you could resell the 10 degree to another sawyer here in the for sale section, or maybe woodmizer would take them back and exchange if unused?

[Bradm]

You need to be careful grabbing the wheel at the spokes and turning the wheel to track it in. I think we all have done this but I have also been to the emergency room once when a glove caught the tooth and pulled in a hand. So practice Safety First.

First three rules of shop safety when working with rotating equipment - both power and manually driven:

• No loose clothing
• No gloves
• Long hair needs to be in a ponytail, or a bun, and tucked into shirt