Tree falling advice

[danreed76]

I have a rather large yellow pine to take down, which normally isn't an issue, but this one has a bit of damage at the base which makes me unsure about the best way to pursue it.  If you look at the pictures, I'd prefer to fall it away from the damaged side, but I don't know that I trust the damaged wood to wedge it over against.   There's also a slight lean toward the damage side.  The inward taper goes up to around chest height (on me).  I can fall it toward the damaged side, but then I sacrifice some trees along the side of the driveway.   

I'm debating if I should just take it in the direction of the damage, or build up something to allow me to use a saw safely above the damaged section.  Any thoughts from the professionals is appreciated.
 

 

[Skeans1]

If you have to ask the internet don't do it.

[Joe_]

Could you cut it above the damaged part? You would have sound wood all around I'd u need to wedge it.

[mills]

The big unknown is how far into the tree does the bad wood run. Doughy wood may run several feet up into the tree. Even if you try to pull it over there needs to be good solid wood to hold the bottom. I have zero experience cutting pine, but I wouldn't try to go against the lean unless all other options have been exhausted. Main thing is be safe making sure you have multiple escape routs should things go sideways or backwards. Rotten trees can be rough on the operator and the chainsaw.

[Blackcanyon]

If you can fell it towards the damaged face I would make a shallow wedge cut in the damage and using a sharp saw cut the back cut. I have in the past hooked a choker chain( with grab hook end) around tree head or chest high and pound it down tree till tight with an axe. The tightened chain will prevent a barber chair split.

[Southside]

If you have to turn to the internet to ask for advice on how to address a situation which can kill you in a moment should one small detail be missed, then it's time to call in someone who is experienced in said matter.  

[danreed76]

I'm definitely not asking "the internet" for directions on how to cut down a tree.  I came to the forestry forum where we generally share knowledge when someone has a question.  If I posed the question in a way that made it sound otherwise, I mis-spoke.

In most locations, I wouldn't have an issue with falling this tree.  I was just looking for some feedback from the forestry forum braintrust as an outside set of eyes given that I prefer not to lay it in the direction of the damaged face.

Springboarding is definitely outside my comfort zone.  I have double wrapped a chain on soft/standing dead/ diseased trees when the quality of the stump was in question.  I may just have to clear a path in the non-preferred direction and tell the wife that the driveway will be... restricted... for a little while.

[lxskllr]

If the lean's manageable, I'd cut it high. Maybe put a line in it for insurance, and premark your cuts so you stay on track in an uncomfortable position.

I'm barely qualified to give advice seeing something in person, and looking at a picture's much worse, so value the above about as much as you paid  ;^)

[Skeans1]

@danreed76 
If it was me I'd go 90 degree from the cat face treating that side as if it was good with a nice deep face/undercut to keep from wedging much holding more wood on the good side of the hinge. I'd be more tempted to steer(a standard chasing of the back cut) vs bore and back strap a tree like this. 

[Skeans1]

If the lean's manageable, I'd cut it high. Maybe put a line in it for insurance, and premark your cuts so you stay on track in an uncomfortable position.

I'm barely qualified to give advice seeing something in person, and looking at a picture's much worse, so value the above about as much as you paid  ;^)

I'd do just the opposite the lower on the stump the better just for the fact you might have some holding power in a root for holding wood.

[LeeB]

Would it be of any advantage to do a bore cut to see if the tree is solid or not?

[Southside]

I have double wrapped a chain on soft/standing dead/ diseased trees when the quality of the stump was in question.

The part about that which has always scared me is two fold.  First lets say it works and the tree holds at the chain, but blows apart 6' higher up because the stress has focused above the chain and she is not solid there, now you don't know which way it's going to go.  The other thing is that every chain has a failure point, focus enough energy to get just past that failure point and rather than a very bad chair, you created a fragmentation grenade.  

[so il logger]

I cant see a tree chairing with enough force to break a log chain. And from all ive seen i definately can not see it blowing apart above the chained stem. The tree is still structurally sound enough to stand, it isnt gonna blow apart above where he would chain it. 

Cut it low, leave out the whole chaining it thing. Cant tell from the pics where the lean is, but id face it on the bad side down low. Its against my beliefs to give advice without seeing it. But its not rocket science. Head on a swivel and be ready to move. It looks safe to me

[so il logger]

2nd pic, guessing the lean to be toward the compromised side. Face it to fall in the direction you were standing. Back cut concentrating on leaving more hold wood on the good side of the tree. If the natural lean is different than i am reading in that pic then adjustments are needed. Root structure makes me think it wants to fall the way of the bad side