Help a n00b choose a saw?

[GW]

I thought I had both a Husky and a Stihl dealer in the nearest town but it turned out to be 2 Stihl dealers. The one has a Husky sign in front which is why I was confused. I walked in there and all I saw were Stihls. The person behind the counter told me they can't move Husky now that the big stores carry them.

The other Stihl dealer has been doing business in the town for more than 20 years. The women I spoke with is the wife/owner, I think, and she was very serious about helping me choose the right saw. She actually tried to down-sell me from a 361 to a 390! She went as far as showing me the similar specs in her catalog. This isn't a very affluent area and she told me they have never stocked or sold a 361. They do sell a lot of 440's though. They just put in an order for Stihl saws so I would have to wait many weeks or pay shipping to get a 361. At that point she told me that the next town over had a Stihl dealer that might have a 361 in stock which is why I now know who is getting my chainsaw money. It turns out that shipping would only be $14 so if I do get a Stihl it will be from them.

I need to choose a solid bar or sprocket tip. The price would be about $600 with an 18" bar.

[jokers]

You definitely want the sprocket tip and see if you can negotiate an ES bar in lieu of the standard laminated E bar, this is the least that she can do for you after trying to sell you a 390!  :D I think that you will be very happy with this saw.

[GW]

Thanks Jokers, I'll ask about the upgrades. They might be very willing since they see this as an expensive saw.

[sawguy21]

That woman's attitude leaves me at a loss for words.

[beenthere]

When the MS361 first came out, I inquired about them from a large Stihl dealer, and was told they were not yet available, and wouldn't be for sometime. I was sure I'd seen them at my small Stihl dealer, so stopped there and picked up two of them ($500 each in 2004, one for me and one purchased by my son).  I think the larger dealer just wanted to reduce old inventory first, before selling the newer model. Can't blame them for trying, I guess.

[SawTroll]

Maybe 16 iinch is a good compromise...

I will also be cutting a fair amount of small and medium limbs on the ground.

I'd start with a 16" bar for wood that mostly is 18" or smaller, and add a longer one when and if you find that you really need it.
The 16 will be useful for a lot of the cutting anyway, and the saw handles better, specially for limbing.

I do most of both my felling and limbing with a MS361 with 15" and 18" bars, and use the 15" one much more than the 18". Most of my trees is 18" or smaller at the stump......

[SawTroll]

I`ll throw in my two cents for the 361 or the 357xp, the 359 or Jonsered 2159 are a distant second compared to the first two saws when they are all unmodified.

If however only a few of your trees are 18" or larger and the majority of stuff is much smaller, say 14" or under, I`d look at a Husky 353 or Dolmar 5100s.

I totally agree, just forget the 359, unless you plan to have the saw modded (by EHP ;))....

[GW]

It's possible that the lady at the Stihl shop was trying to get me to buy from their inventory but she did she suggest the other dealer. My impression from talking to her was that she just isn't used to people spending that kind of money on a saw that size. Money is in short supply for most people around here. In my county the 2000 census lists an average household income of $28,600. I doubt that it's gone up.

Latest consensus: 361 w/ 16" ES bar (with a longer bar in the future as needed)

[DanG]

My opinion on bar length is to go with the one the saw is normally sold with.  You'll find that the saw will be balanced better with that length.  My CS670 is perfectly balanced with the original 24", but noticably nose-heavy with the 32".  A balanced saw is much less fatigueing to use.

[GW]

My opinion on bar length is ta go with da one da saw is normally sold with.  ya'll find dat da saw will be balanced better with dat length.  My CS670 is perfectly balanced with da original 24", but noticably nose-heavy with da 32".  A balanced saw is much less fatigueing ta use.

Hey DanG. Stihl recommends a 20 inch bar.

(You talk funny)

[DanG]

Then the 20" is probably what you should get.  Just pick the saw up with one hand, and if it hang's level, it will be less tiring to use. 

Yep, I'm talking funny.  Some sly dog has yooperized us. :

[Furby]

Gee GW, for some reason I thought you lived out in the boonies, but I see you live in rich folk country!
I'm gonna have to find a place like yours to move to some day.

[WDH]

If slow is funny, then DanG talks funny :D.

[GW]

Furby, if you get too destitute maybe I could let you camp in the woods here. No fires though...

;D

[Furby]

Yeah, I'll just eat my food raw. :-\

[GW]

Grubs are more nutritious raw anyway. ;)

[Furby]

Yup!
Let me know how they taste eh? ;D

[GW]

I ordered the 361 today. The wife/owner brought up the 390 again! :D I really think it's a mothering kind of thing, she seems very nice. The total was $580 plus tax.

[WDH]

Now you can saw-some-logs  ;D.

[GW]

I had them set aside a pair of chaps and I'm shopping for head protection too. Can anyone recommend a place to get some instruction?

[sawguy21]

See the thread on Game of Logging. It sounds like a very interesting course and could help you avoid learning a lot of hard lessons.

[jokers]

I ordered the 361 today........................ The total was $580 plus tax.

Yeah, that`s the going rate for that saw in most places from what I understand, $579.99. You should be very happy with that saw.

Game of Logging is highly respected training, Arbor Masters is more. Many people have stated in the past that community colleges local to them sometimes offer chainsaw safety classes but you could also check for logger`s training in Georgia by doing a websearch. Do you have cooperative extension offices in your area? They might also be able to help.

[GW]

Thanks, I'll check out those resources. I'll do some web searches, I'm so DanG busy right now I barely have time to eat...

At first the wife/owner said I'd have to pay freight since they didn't have one in stock, but she gave me a receipt with my deposit and it looks like she left it off. Hubby/owner said he'd throw in an extra chain too. Both will be rapid chains (non-anti-kickback).

The shop is pretty cool. It's small and the customers take some time to gossip when they come in. They do small engine repair and the place is a little cluttered up. The husband/owner is the meticulous type with neat coveralls and his area is an oasis of order with everything clean and hung on pegboard hooks. I think this is the kind of shop people look for.

[DanG]

Congrats Jerry!  You'll be happy in the long run that you spent the bucks to get a good saw, instead of settling for a "Wild Thang" or something like that. ;)

There are only a few things about the saw itself that are real safety concerns.  Avoidance of contact with the chain is the obvious one. :D :D  Lock the chain brake when moving around.  Avoid accidentally touching anything with the tip of the bar.  Bring the saw up to speed before touching the wood...a rapidly moving chain has much less tendency to grab or kick back.

I know you said you won't be doing any felling for a while, but down trees have plenty of hazards, too.  I saw some good-sized blow-downs there, and you're going to attack them sooner or later.  Just remember that you have to think about every cut you make when limbing out a large tree.  Large branches are heavy and can hurt you.  Many of them are like felling a small tree.  You have to try and predict which way they will fall and cut a notch to create a hinge.  I usually try to start at the outside and work my way in, cutting firewood sized chunks as I go.  Take your time and make sure you always have good footing.  Tripping and falling with a running chainsaw in your hand is not considered a fun activity.  Broken branches don't make a very comfortable landing spot, either.  Be mindful of the branches that are supporting the tree.  If you cut the wrong one first, the tree can roll over on you.  Those branches are under tremendous pressure, and can spring back on you if you aren't careful.

Since you will only have one saw(for now ;) ) it is a good idea to have an extra bar and chain handy.  You are going to get your saw stuck in something you can't move.  It WILL happen sooner or later, most likely sooner.  You can remove the saw from the stuck bar, then use the spare to free the  stuck one.  It is also a good idea to have a come-a-long and a length of chain or cable with you, as well as some wedges.  These things can keep you out of trouble or get you out of trouble.

Let me know when you get your hands on that beauty, and I'll come up and give you some pointers on using and maintaining it.

Is that shop the one where you turn left at the first light in Cairo?  It looks like a neat place to do business.

[GW]

Thanks for the input DanG, I'll let you know when the saw comes in. The shop you mentioned is the one I'm talking about. I'm looking forward to seeing the husband/owners reaction to the 361 when he sees it working. I think this will be the first one he's seen. That still seems odd to me, but obviously they aren't trying to push this model on people.

I've already been hurt felling a tree, kind of. It was a 5 inch dia palm tree about 25 feet tall and I cut it with a Sawz-all. When the top hit the ground it created a whipping action and the cut end came down on my foot breaking a toe. What? Steal toad booze?  What the heck is that? ;D

(I know that was an insignificant injury, but it's a reminder to think ahead to avoid something serious.)