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Started by Dan_Shade, July 22, 2007, 08:24:26 PM

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sparks

The blade speed on a 25hp LT40 standard hydraulic is approx. 5330 SFPM. Which means your 158" blade will make approx 405 complete revolutions per minute.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

Dan_Shade

Sparks, what is the pulley sizes on the engine and drive wheel? 

also, isn't optimum blade speed a property of the band more so than the saw?
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

sparks

Engine pulley is 4.00" pulley and the pulley it drives is 12.00" pulley.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

Dan_Shade

so the engine RPM should stay above 3200 then?  my engine seems to start bogging at 3400...  maybe i'm not pushing it hard enough.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

musikwerke

I took Suffolk Machinery's advice and up-sized the engine pulley on my 16 HP B & S (LT30) to 4.25" dia.  At 3381 engine RPM I'm driving the band wheel 1127 RPM which equals 5601 ft./min.   I'm using 1-1/4" X .045" Wood-Mizer blades and the only time my cuts aren't perfect is when I'm feeding too slowly. 
John

musikwerke

Correction to my previous post:  My engine RPM is 3181 (or thereabouts).
John

jpgreen

One way I can tell when my blade starts getting dull is the hydraulic tensioner.  As soon as it starts droping and needs more tension seems like the blade is up for a change out.

Also if the tension keeps going up periodicly, and I keep turning it back down, a breakage is on the horizon.

A stable 2000 pounds seems to be the magic point for me.

I wonder if I should up my pulley size? I need a tach to see what's going on.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Larry

Seems all are in agreement that blade speed is the secret to feed speed for quality and production.  So...why not directly check the blade speed?  I'm using a bicycle speedometer, ($10 from Wal-Mart) as suggested by another member some time back to measure blade speed.  I've found when the blade in the log, drops below 4,100 SFPM with my mill its going to wave.  As the blade dulls my feed slows...but the constant is my blade speed is never allowed to drop below 4,100 SFPM.  The bicycle thingy seems to be more accurate than my ear, tachometer, and or voodoo to adjust feed speed.  Granted, most times I depend on my ear, but as soon as I hear the engine start to lug I'll glance at the speedometer...quite often when sawing wider than 12".
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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