Saw Hammering Instructions

[billk414]

Am looking for documentation instructions (or a book) for saw hammering circular saws with two feet and greater diameters.  Also, what tools are required.

[Bradm]

Tools needed to hammer blades:

Hammers
Anvil
Something to clean the blades
Straight edge that is true to within .001"
Convex gauges that are ground to the proper arc for a set RPM rather than a fixed SFM
Soapstone to mark where you want to hammer
Enough space to move, store, clean and work with the blades
If large blades, something to lift the blades off the ground and onto a horizontal surface and back down
Some way to lift the blade to a consistent height from one end only

Don't forget about having lots of time and even more patience.  You will make mistakes.  You will make blades worse than when they came in, especially when you start out.  The gauges and straight edges will tell you where to work as will the blade itself.

[CCCLLC]

All good info. Thanks Bradm.

[CCCLLC]

Simonds Int. (Website?) Can get you  setup on tools.

[glendaler]

I just picked up a book called "miners manual of saw hammering and filing", its a reproduction of a manual from the early 1900s. I haven't hammered a saw using the info but it's one of the few books I've been able to find.

[moodnacreek]

The best book I have found; Hanchett saw and knife fitting Manual. This book has alot about bandsaws but the circle saw section has the most info that i have found. One thing to be aware of is that in Miner's and Covel's time there where solid tooth saws in use that developed rim problems from being ground. The insert saws should not develop these problems. I think hammering you own saw is going to be too much to learn by your self. However they say a sawyer should be able to keep a saw in better condition by hammering down lumps on a padded anvil as to not change the tension. I suppose carefull use of straight edges would be the rule

[Bradm]

One thing to be aware of is that in Miner's and Covel's time there where solid tooth saws in use that developed rim problems from being ground. The insert saws should not develop these problems. I think hammering you own saw is going to be too much to learn by your self. However they say a sawyer should be able to keep a saw in better condition by hammering down lumps on a padded anvil as to not change the tension. I suppose carefull use of straight edges would be the rule

Whether someone is running steel swedged tooth saws, steel tooth saws with a left/right set, brazed carbide tooth saws, stellite welded tooth saws, or insert tooth saws, the principles remain the same - flat is flat and tension is tension.
The rim problems that occur on steel tooth saws are caused by naturally changing tension requirements due to a reduced diameter which in turn reduces SFM; heavy grinding leading to an over hard spot inside the gullet; not enough grinding in the gullet resulting in the steel work hardening (this is a cold process) or micro fractures not being ground out.  The final 2 can also apply to both wide and narrow bands.
Insert saws are a bit different in that grinding doesn't have a noticeable affect on the SFM of a saw.  However, the tooth/shank combo does tighten the rim and will change the tension on a blade in the same way that an interference bushing will.  A sloppy fitting shank and tooth will result in a loose spot in the rim which can cause a crack to start in the same way that non-insert tooth saws do.
Padded anvils work for flattening blades without changing tension too much.  A piece of cardboard around the thickness of a cereal box or an office file folder is plenty thick.  So does placing the blade in a true vertical position, supporting the back of the blade around where you want to hammer, and lightly hitting the high spot.

[4x4American]

Saw hammering is witchcraft  :D

[moodnacreek]

I just had a saw go out of whack. This completely surprised me as it gave little warning.  Saws that I have had to get hammered, that is saws that I had been using for some time always gained tension and got loose and touchy gradually.  The big problem is getting them back with as little tension as possible. Of the 5 saw men I have used only 2 could or would satisfy . They would work on the saw for a long time. The others would be done in an hour and one guy did it all with 2 stretcher rolls. They stand it up to the long straight edge and show you how perfect they got it. Any complaints and you get told how bad you mill set up is.  I had to put up with this for years until I found a real saw hammer man and all my mill problems went away.

[maple flats]

I only needed my Peterson blades hammered 2x over 17 years. I sent them to Menominee Saw in Menominee MI. At the time they were done by a man named Peachy, I suspect he may now be retired or worse. At any rate Menominee will be able to do it. They will need to know what RPM you run the saw at.