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36 ft on an LT40 remote, by turning it around lengthwise?

Started by terrifictimbersllc, July 12, 2015, 01:55:16 PM

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terrifictimbersllc

Customer asking for two 36 ft locust 8x8s for a bridge span for his ATVs.  Wonders if I can cut one end then turn it around lengthwise, line it up,  and cut the other.  Says it doesn't have to be perfect. 

My mill is an LT40 Super front Remote.  No bed extensions.  I've cut 26 ft before by flipping 180 and scooting forward, and can imagine repeating this process back and forth 180 to get a 36 footer. 

But wondering if anyone has done the end to end thing.  I'd be worried about whether the mill can take the weight off the end of an unsupported 16' length.  But he has a big tractor with forks and can pick up the whole log.

I cant answer the question of whether he really has two locust logs that are big enough and straight enough.

Always dull blades but never a dull moment.  :)
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

WV Sawmiller

TT,

   Never tried such. Will be interested in what you find. I think I'd try cutting the butt end first just to make sure I did not overbalance the weight as I trimmed off the sides.

   By the way - does he really need 8X8 or just 8" thick? Might be able to leave live edge on 2 sides like old time hand hewn cross ties were made. Would be just as strong or more likely stronger.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

customsawyer

Any time you get towards 30' + you will need to support the far end as it will make the middle bow up like it has stress in it. I found it best to use a small hyd. bottle jack on a block or two as this gave more precision than forks on a tractor. I doubt if I would try flipping it form end to end.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
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beenthere

Just slab one face flat... will be better for strength and flex.  36' and he'll be lucky that it will support its own weight as a bridge beam, let alone trying to drive anything across.
But maybe the plan is for center support too.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Magicman

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on July 12, 2015, 01:55:16 PMI cant answer the question of whether he really has two locust logs that are big enough and straight enough.
In my country you would never fine Locust trees that would make those timbers.  Also, even for ATV's, stretching two 8X8's 36' is pushing thing a bit far.   :o
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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47sawdust

From a construction perspective,why bother with a 36' beam.There must be another way to go about this project using shorter stock.It would save a lot of work and eliminate the risk of damaging your mill,to say nothing of all the head scratching.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

slider

I did some 32 footers a while back on a 20 ft mill.I started using a bottle jack to start with then moved my roller table to the end of the mill for support which worked much better.I called Jake for help before messing up some nice cypress and he suggested making a cut almost to the end then hit the up lever while sawing.Give your self room and just saw right up and out of the cut.Then rotate and repeat until you can move the log back and do the same on the other end.This worked well for me.Hope this will help.I saw from the back most of the time so I moved the support table to the back where my remote is.
al glenn

deadfall

I can just imagine the sag in any square timber that long.  Like the man sez, support in the center (or a couple of places along the way -- posts, or a truss), and then, why not build it with shorter timbers? 

If you have some good buttresses in place, you can build one of these:

W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

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Brucer

You can do it. As custom sawyer said, you will need extra support to prevent sagging. I routinely saw 5' overlength and it works OK as long as I support the log at several points down its length.

You might suggest to your customer that he use 6x10s instead of 8x8s. Set on edge they will be 17% stronger, 46% stiffer, and 6% lighter.

I often see people using raw logs for bridge beams. The problem is the extra wood on the sides contributes nothing to the strength or stiffness. All it does is add to the weight and that reduces the bridge capacity.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

terrifictimbersllc

thanks for your advice I'll let you know how it turns out.

Might end up using the Peterson with 39' rails have to scoot the rails lengthwise 3 ft, to get to 36',  but that would work.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

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