Hello,
I am currently in the process of trying to find a timber framer for a modest house project (1300 sq. ft.) and I am wondering if I should try and avoid choosing a framer simply because the cost of shipping the finished frame and SIPS will be cost prohibitive. The site is in SE Idaho. Anyhow, if anyone has any thoughts on this subject, I would be grateful to hear them.
Thanks in advance,
jb9
JB,
Welcome to the forum.
My timber frame was only 400 square feet. After I cut the timbers, I had to move them 300 miles. In my case, I posted my load on "UShip.com". Maybe I was lucky, but I found a great guy who moved them for a very good rate—practically cheaper than I could have rented a one-way, U-Haul truck myself (plus gas). The only catch was I had to round up a crew to help load and unload at both ends. He was very flexible and did an awesome job. Since I found this trucker, I've hired him directly to move additional items for me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/Trailer_1.jpg)
I'm sure reputable timber framers routinely deal with freight/trucking companies and could probably give you a good estimate/ballpark for delivery of frames.
My buddy Collin Beggs in Sandpoint isn't exactly close, but he's definitely the best framer around. If you're interested in having him design and cut a frame. Google him up--his website is inspiring.
Collin is cutting a frame for me now. It will be shipped back here to the midwest. Do not base your choice of framers on shipping. You want a framer you're comfortable with and that you are sure will do the job you are looking for. There are definitely differences from one Timber framer to another - How they peg, joinery decisions etc. You also want one with some proven experience.
A recent lesson I've learned, as I've wrote about it two other times here.... Before you even think of ordering material or cutting a stick, have your construction drawings complete 100%. It's far easier to change things in design than while you're cutting. For example, work with the overhead garage door company you're going to use and make sure the tracks can be routed as you envision. Make sure there is enough room on top of the opening for the jackshaft and opener. You may find that you have to adjust the frame or the outer wall design to accommodate these things. I'm using an inclined track so I have to make sure it will clear the top plate and be inside of the framing members. The mounting face is the outer 2x6 wall. Another example is the roof detail. I'm using 1x8 T&G on the rafter and sips on top of them. Well in trying to route the electrical for the lighting, I decided to fur a 1.5 inch space between the T&G and sips to be able to run the electrical conduit and boxes on top of the T&G before the Sips go on. This will make wiring a lot easier. Doing this change means the Cupola posts need to be lengthened accordingly to maintain the look. There are many issues like this in a building design. This is why you really need to plan out every detail before you start. This can take you 8 months to a year. Because I left some details unfinished, I'm paying the price now.
Quote from: Brad_bb on July 02, 2015, 12:41:35 AM
<<snip>>
Before you even think of ordering material or cutting a stick, have your construction drawings complete 100%. It's far easier to change things in design than while you're cutting.
<<snip>>
This can take you 8 months to a year. Because I left some details unfinished, I'm paying the price now.
Now I don't feel so bad - I spent about 4 months on SketchUp and working with my engineer before submitting my plans to the county. Then spent another 3 months making them happy ::)