log trailer build idea

[bigred1951]

so ive been thinking about taking a couple axles from a 3/4 -1 ton truck maybe even dually axles with springs of course and building a trailer to haul logs with..ive seen people haul logs with plain old 16-20ft trailers so i was thinking surely with them heavy duty axles it should be able to haul the load just fine..whats your guys thoughts on this

[thenorthman]

be money ahead to get a used heavy duty car/equipment hauler.  Less title issues, no liability problems, you know its going to tow straight, and you will know just how much it can haul.  Not to mention the clearance issues with the differential pumpkins in the way of everthing. 

Especially if you factor in buying new steel for the frame, matching axles(more for tires and length than anything), wiring it, rigging up brakes (you do plan on running brakes right?)

For the record I've been tossing this idea around for a couple of years now...

[bigred1951]

well i already have an old home made heavy duty trailer that pulled fine but it hasnt been used in years and the tires and wheels are higher then the floor of the trailer and it dont have heavy duty axles..my plans was to get a couple axles and the springs and mount them up under the trailer so that way the floor of the trailer is above the tires and everything..and yea i plan on running brakes if i could figure out a way to hook them up haha

[SLawyer Dave]

I am in the beginning stages of modifying my wood hauler trailer into a log hauler also.  It is built out of 4" angle iron frame, built over the springs and tandem axles of an old single wide trailer.  The leaf springs are literally 6" in height and I will blow the tires long before the springs or axles will be overloaded.  It pulls very well, and I balanced the placement of the axles to keep a slight load differential to the front, but when unloaded, the trailer is surprisingly balanced and mobile even for just pushing it around by hand. 

I still need to:
1)  Flip and axles so that they are on top of the springs, (that will lower the deck 8"), 2)  Build a 2" square tube overhead assembly, (that will be removable from 2 1/2 inch o.d. square tube stake pockets), that will hold the snatch block that will allow me to lift the end of the log onto the deck with the winch.
3)  Attach the winch

The picture below shows my trailer as it sits now.  It is hard to see, but at the end of my open tailgate, you can see a braced upright bracket, (that is where the winch attaches). 


https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=4855&pid=132680#top_display_media


I am also playing with the idea of mounting a roller bar at the back edge of the deck, as I am concerned about trying to pull logs up over the hard metal edge.  Seems to me, even small lumps, bumps, and protrusions would tend to become stuck against this static edge, while with a roller, they would tend to roll up onto the deck much easier.  I am worried whether using stock metal pipe would be heavy enough not to simply bend, however, the first time a log's weight was put on it.  Wondering if I would be better to find an old round axle and cut it to fit and mount to bushings instead.  (anyone have any experience with this or ideas?)

With the 10' deck, and 3' distance from the winch to the front of the deck, I figure I should be able to easily handle 14' logs (24" overhang at both ends of the deck), and still keep a balanced load.  If I have other logs or wood to counter balance the extra hang off the back, (and caution flags), I should be able to handle an 18' log in a pinch.  So that at least is what I am shooting for.

[lumberjack48]

The easiest is to pickup an old 40' trailer. then cut if off and put a tongue on it. This is what the guys around here built their pup trailers out of.

[mark686]

just my 2 cents on the whole idea and knoladge of home built or modified trailers,the risk and expence of the trailer is a lot hire than on a baughten trailer. trailer manufacturers hold the liability on the construction of the trailer and they also get there steel and axles at a lower cost than what we can buy them from any whole sale store.
the liability on building or modifying a trailer is not worth the risk, when used trailers are out there may take time to find the right one but it is worth it in the end.  food for thaught look at how sew crased peaple are they will try to sew for about any reason best let the trailer manufacturers be responsible for the integrety of a trailer.

[WH_Conley]

I just spotted on here local, goose neck, 20 foot long, tandem axle, new tires, $3200.00. All I saw was the pics, looked good and straight and the floor appeared good, 20,000 GVW. I would have to look a long time before building one at that price.

[chevytaHOE5674]

Hooking up the brakes will be the biggy. Truck axle brakes use hydraulics so you will need to have a electric over hydraulic unit to power the brakes. Last time I priced a good electric/hydraulic unit they were in the 700 dollar range, which is about the same price as hunting down some good used trailer axles with electric brakes.