I recently had my metal detector come up missing from my pickup truck along with some grade checking equipment, I need to get one more suited for locating metal in sawlogs rather than the expensive surveying type that was intended for field use locating monuments and iron pipe markers etc.
What are most of you using around the mill for finding metal in your logs?, I just need a dependable one that is reasonable in price to keep around the mill.
Good question, Splinter.
I've been wondering the same thing. When I went a WM open house, they suggested getting a good metal detector. I assumed it would need to be something near what surveyors use.
CC
I'd like to know to ..
The surveyors use the kind I had. I bought it at Sokkia, it was $1200.00, Called Mag Horn with a ferro magnetic locator and worked very well, I could find survey points under 6" of pavement but when something cost that much it can evaporate when left un-attended right out of your pickup so I just want a cheapie for the mill as long as it can find metal I will be happy.
I use a Fisher 1236x2. I gave around 500 for it years ago. Been really good at finding nails but you have to dig sometimes pretty deep. Runs on two or I found out one 9v battery.
I got a Bounty Hunter about 10 years ago. Can't remember the model # but it was about $200 at Wally World.
I've left it in the back of the truck several times, and no one seems to want it. :D
It works pretty good though. The only metal I've hit was in logs I didn't use it on, or the mill itself.
Andy
Splinter, I could not find my detector for 3weeks after getting my truck inspected, I thought it got stolen out of the truck. I found it in my office :D. I guess I took it out so it would not get stolen and forgot I took it out ;D. I use a Garrett super wand. Its small,precise and works. I think I paid $175.00 for mine and would do it again if I lose this one!http://www.garrett.com/securitysite/security_super_wand_main.aspx. The draw backs are they only reach in about 2 to 3 inches of solid wood. But after 30 years of cutting I know which cuts are prone to have metal in them (the height of a human being with a hammer) :). Tim
I DO NOT USE ONE.....PERIOD.
When I first got my mill, I used a Log Wizard. Waste of time.
But now, I just visually inspect my logs for metal. I watch for discoloration in the wood while I saw and I can tell where metal is, especially if I hit it. :D
It just a personal thing but I consider a metal detector a waste of time. :)
But to support you.....If ya gonna buy a metal detector, get a good one.
So far the WM 10 degree model has done just fine finding metal. :D :D
I guess once I start sawing for others I should get one or maybe I letting them check there own trees would work since it is there tab.
matt
I'm on my second one in 20 years of milling. The first one I got, I think it was called a "white" I paid $125 for it at a coin shop as he took it in in trade for a $600 unit he sold. It worked great for many years until my step son broke the switch on it.
I then went to radio shack and got one off the shelf for about $139 or so. It has a switch on it to "eliminate" all junk metal. I leave that one off so it will pick up junk metal in logs.
I have used that one for at least 10 years.
I think I'm on my second or third set of batteries for it.
I like it and it works good for me.
Jim Rogers
I use a Tesoro Silver Micro Max. Paid $260 a year ago. Finds the steel toe cap in my boot every time :D . Seriously though, it will detect a 2" nail under 6 inches of Tulip Poplar. It has an all metal setting and I leave it set at that. I set it up with a short stem and it works well for me. (except when I leave it at home, then the mill does a fine job of finding the metal)
I also use a Bounty Hunter from Amazon, about a buck twenty five I think.
It works for me great, of course a saw a lot fewer and a lot bigger logs than most sawyers. I check the exterior of each log and then after each slab is removed. I have found a nail six inches into walnut with mine. Of course I deal with a lot of yard trees also, I find metal in at least half the logs I saw I bet. :'(
I started keeping a collection of metal from logs, but that got old quick as the novelty wore off. Mabe the second day of milling ::)
Frank
I use a Minelab CTX 3030. But only because I am a serious old coin and CW relic hunter as well as a sawer. It is water proof but at over $2,000.oo way to pricey for just sawing . About any entry level detector in the $200.00 dollar range should be more than adequate for searching logs for tramp metals.
I use a new Cook's Super Sharp 1 1/2" X 0.050" X 1". It has never failed to find metal no matter if it's in the log or on the mill.
If a detector is simple and handy to use it will be used.Your typical metal detector is designed for standing and detecting at ground level and far too many adjustments.I've found small wand types very handy.My current one is an el cheapo new at the flea market for $25.00.Most of the time detectors are used on suspicious areas and fenceline butts. There are small units designed for wood workers that will serve well, regardless you going to hit tramp once in a wile. Frank C.
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on August 14, 2013, 07:47:13 PM... It has a switch on it to "eliminate" all junk metal. I leave that one off so it will pick up junk metal in logs.;..
Jim Rogers
Jim how much "NON-JUNK" metal you found in your logs? ??? :D :D ;)
M
I use a Fisher F70. It runs around $650 but has paid for itself many times over. The little wand detectors only go 2". Handy if you only cut 1" lumber but not very effective for cutting slabs 3" or more. Mine will find metal 5-8" in the log, depending on the species. It doesnt work very well if you leave it in the truck though, as I found out tonight. (I was slabbing a very nice walnut for a customer, and the price of the slab was a lot higher than the cost of the chain so I didnt bother scanning.)
Quote from: logboy on August 17, 2013, 12:49:50 AM
I use a Fisher F70. It runs around $650 but has paid for itself many times over. The little wand detectors only go 2". Handy if you only cut 1" lumber but not very effective for cutting slabs 3" or more. Mine will find metal 5-8" in the log, depending on the species. It doesnt work very well if you leave it in the truck though, as I found out tonight. (I was slabbing a very nice walnut for a customer, and the price of the slab was a lot higher than the cost of the chain so I didnt bother scanning.)
Good to see you back on the forum, logboy. :) I have a question for you detector owners, how accurate is the depth sensor on these things? Say you're cutting 4" slabs and the detector says the metal is at 5", can you trust it? Or do you just have to start 'digging'?
JM
Thanks, JM. I've been sawing more lately as writing jobs have slacked a bit. Its nice to be making sawdust again.
Every species is different so it takes a bit of experience. It will read deeper in maple than oak, elm, or ash, so I have to be aware. I can tell in oak or elm when a nail is 2 inches down or 3-1/2 inches down. The problem is not knowing the orientation of the nail or how long it is. Figure out the value of the timber being milled and decide if its worth ruining. With Lucas sawmill blades like ours I always dig it out. Slabbing is another story. You don't carve a hole in the middle of a $1k slab.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26719/P9182913.JPG)
When I scan a log, I swing the detector left and right over the log going from end to end. And when it beeps I put a red line on the log with my lumber crayon. Then I turn the detector 90° to the line, and swing left and right again. This time going side to side. When it beeps again I draw another line 90° to the first line. X or + marks the spot.
Of course my sender/receiver is about 5 or 6" in diameter so you kind of have to guess a little where to start chopping in with your axe.
I can't tell with mine how deep they are in.
I look for the grain to go in swirls where it grew around the metal.
Or for metal stain, and then I know I'm close.
Jim Rogers
I'm milling up some red pine today since I was already set up for slabbing for a customer last night. I found a couple nails on the outside so I was scanning after every pass. It read hot on one pass but said they were still pretty deep and wouldn't tell me what it was. So I sawed another layer of 2x10 off and scanned again.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26719/image2.jpg)
It kept reading either 5 cent or tin which told me it was more than likely a bullet. The Lucas doesn't seem to mind bullets so I decided to leave it in there rather than carve up the log and risk a couple 2 x 10s for my future sugar shack.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26719/image4.jpg)
I found this after another layer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26719/image3.jpg)
I dug it out and found this. Another one for the collection.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26719/image5.jpg)
We'll see if I find any more in the middle with the slabber.
The Rens unit is around $1600. Would be good if you were buying tons of sawlogs and want to make sure they are metal free before you buy them.
www.metaldetect.com/p_4000_detector.html
I use the Log Wizard on reclaimed barn beams before we resaw them. It works well for that but if the metal is any more then 2" in, its not going to pick it up.