Need Some Expert Advice

[Radar67]

I don't know if it has the air filter feature or not. As for the depth gauge, I'm filing with a hand file that has the metal bar on top to control the depth, so it rides on top of the teeth when I sharpen. I've been tightening the chain like the book says, remove the sag, hold up on the tip of the bar and tighten.

Stew

[scottr]

Those are good guides . Do you set your depth gauges with depth gauge tool or do you use a flat bar and feeler gauge ? What chain are you using ?

[Radar67]

I'm using Oregon 3/8 chain. You'll have to explain setting the depth, cause I don't do anything with a depth gauge or a feeler gauge.

Stew

[scottr]

I'm using Oregon 3/8 chain. You'll have to explain setting the depth, cause I don't do anything with a depth gauge or a feeler gauge.

Stew

Stew , the depth gauge that is forward of the tooth needs to be lowered after the tooth is sharpened due to the tooth being lowered .  Here is the oregon chain tech manual . See page 27 for how to set depth gauges . http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manuals/ms_02.pdf

[Radar67]

I've not been doing that. What are the advantages to adjusting the depth? I've not noticed any difference in cutting after sharpening, other than the larger chips and cutting easier.

Stew

[scottr]

I've not been doing that. What are the advantages to adjusting the depth? I've not noticed any difference in cutting after sharpening, other than the larger chips and cutting easier.

Stew

The advantage of lowering the depth gauge is that the thickness of the chip will be correct for the design of the tooth . When the tooth enters the wood it pivots on the depth gauge and due to the angle of the slope of the tooth and the distance fron the cutting edge it will limit how deep it can cut . In the case of not adjusting the depth gauges you are making thin shavings (chips) and that's why you have wide open throttle cutting problems . You don't have enough load on your saw .

[Radar67]

Well then, guess I will have to find me a depth gauge and start doing it right.  Thanks for pointing that out.

Stew

[scottr]

Scottr, the saw is still running great. I used the loctite product to keep the exhaust bolts in, but still have to tighten them up about once a month. I didn't make any carb adjustments because the saw was still under warranty, but I did learn it ran better at 3/4 trigger. Now that the warranty is out, I'm going to do the muffler mod and get rid of the limiter caps. I have noticed no other problems with my saw, other than having to change chains when I wear them out.

Stew

Stew , here is an IPL for your saw http://72.3.225.179/manuals/165649.pdf  . If you look at the item # 27 spark arrestor kit it looks like the slot is very small . A good first step to allowing your saw to run cooler would be to take the cover off and file the slot larger . You probably wont have to remove the limiters on the carb for adjustment .

[Radar67]

The slot is pretty small, not to mention the fine screen on the spark arrestor itself. I usually clean that screen every couple of tanks of fuel.

Stew

[scottr]

The slot is pretty small, not to mention the fine screen on the spark arrestor itself. I usually clean that screen every couple of tanks of fuel.

Stew

Stew , you should not need to clean the screen that often . Maybe the foam air filter is dirty .    Is the area of the slot on the outer cover as large as the combined area of the two slots on the muffler ?

[Radar67]

I clean the screen not because it needs it, just do it as a maintenance step. I have not looked that close at the slots. I'll have to go by my place and pick the saw up, then I can get you some pictures.

Stew