Hard-to-start Husky?

[edelen]

After much consideration (and input from several people here), I purchased a Husqvarna 350 a couple years ago. Several people I know have Huskies and it seemed a wise choice.

I haven't had more than a half dozen opportunities to use my saw, but in each case they were all-day events. Every time I've used it, I've had a terrible time starting the saw. It seems to flood at the least provocation and then I have to sit and waste precious time waiting for it to clear. My friends who have Huskies start theirs on one or two pulls. That almost never happen for me, even when the saw's warm.

And yes, that saw gets perfect maintenance from me.

I took it into the dealer after a week of owning it and they said they adjusted a few things, but I didn't notice a difference. My problem then was that it conked out occasionally while idling. Still does that from time to time for no reason at all. (Then I have to yank and yank all over again.)

Today, I got it out for the first time in nine months and, to my surprise, it started on the second pull. I sawed for about an hour, set it down to run an errand for a half hour, then came back to finish one job that wouldn't take more than ten minutes.

Nothing. Wouldn't start. Set it down for dinner, then came back. Nothing. Not even a hint of  starting.

Can I say that I don't like this saw very much? What's the deal? Did I just get a bum saw?  >:(

[Kevin]

You'll want to check the plug to see if it's wet with gas and also to make sure you have a spark.
It may just be your starting technique.

conked out occasionally while idling

That sounds like a simple carb adjustment, you could get a tach and learn to adjust the carb yourself.

[jjmk98k]

My 350 starts cold after about 4-5 tugs, 1 tug when hot...

You're not using the choke when its warm are you? I only use it when the saw cold. Choke on for two to three pulls till it "hiccups", then I push the choke in and a few tugs she starts.... and shes cold blooded... but once warm it runs fine

Also, as already mentioned, might want to clean / change the plug and make an adjustment to the carb.

I am not an expert, just trying to help..

Jim

[jonsered]

Has it got good compression. I have a 350 it seems dull when I start it up but goes fine. All I can say is they have got to many gadgets to go wrong. First I have had husky saws before and some didnt have the half compression button on the side of the cylinder these things shouldnt be on small saws anyone who cant pull the cord without it shouldnt use the saw. Sometimes they either stick or burn out so try moving it in and out a few times then try pulling it if this works dont use it again as I say its not needed. There is a bubble on the side of the 350 for priming it dont use that either. Another thing worth checking is the plug even new ones can be faulty. Back to the button. The older 162  and the 266 were much the same saws 162 had no button the 266 had one when my 266 gave trouble with it I removed it then got a short bolt with the same tread I left the nut on it then removed the button and screwed the nut back up the bolt till it had the same amount of thread to the end as the button then screwed it in i had no problem after that so now with any saw I buy I never use the button and all is well. Hope this helps.

[jonsered]

Forgot to mention. If you get it running. When starting warm pull out the choke and push it in again this will open the carb. and keep it from flooding when you start it.

[jokers]

It sounds like you need a better carb adjustment, maybe clean your air filter, and for your dealer or someone knowledgable to watch closely as you try to start the saw.

No disrespect intended Edelen but how perfect can the maintenace the saw gets from you be if you don`t understand the carb? There is no shame in not knowing everything and it`s great that you have asked for helped, your statement regarding your maintenance just seems a little presumptuous.

[jjmk98k]

Jokers,

I think what Edelen may have meant by "perfect maintenance" what what most casual users refer to as the following. Filling it with good gas and oil mix, keeping the oil tank filled, greasing the bar nose, keeping the saw clean.... Really, if you do those things, you're inline with the owners manual calls for.

For guys like you (skilled saw guy) and myself (on a novice level) tinker and adjust things as we have a working understanding of these things....

not stirring the pot, just adding to it.... Most guys take "great care" of thier cars, but never touch a spark plug, they take it to a dealership.

[jokers]

Good points Jim. I guess that since it seems that I`m either responsible for knowing how to fix/adjust everything or knowing how to find out how to that I get stuck in believing that everyone else sees things the same way that I do, that accountability and responsibility rest with me so when I say that "I" do anything it means literally that I do that which was stated.

[jjmk98k]

Jokers, glad you didnt take insult with my comment...  ;D

you probably rebuilt a Quadrajet in your days as well..... for me and you, not a problem, average Joe, rebuilding a Q-jet is like building the space shuttle!

Like me taking to you guys about ejection seats!!!! you guys know what they do, but not one knows how they work! I been maintaining them for 14 years, i know all the tricks! 8)

Now, back to the topic! 8)

[joe_indi]

I have had this problem on Husky 365s, 372,and 385s. The problem was common to all of them. Though I am yet to see a Husky 350, you might want to check out what I have done to solve the problem.I am assuming that the 350 has common electrics with the Huskies that I have mentioned.
1.The Ignition lead tends to develop uninsulated spots from contacts from the flywheel or cylinder.This could be a possible cause.Change the ignition lead if you notice any deep marks on the insulation.

2. The short circuit wire from the ignition module to the stop switch might be having momentary contact with crankcase or the left rear vibration damper(spring).If insulation on this wire is stripped anywhere, replace it and try and rout it away from the damper spring.

3.Husky does not seem to use thread locking cement on some critical screws.This holds true for the two screws used on 5the ignition module.These screws become loose and the ignition module becomes loose and comes into contact with the fywheel.Moreover the core plates of the module start accumalating sawdust between them.This causes the core plates to to open out(seperate).At some point of time this expansion is going to cause the primary or secondary winding in the module to snap.Once this happens the spark could become erratic.

4. This could be the simplest cause.If you have ever dropped the spark plug, you stand the chance of having caused the electrode or its insulator to come loose.When this happens, the insulator or electrode drops down and might remain like that when you remove it.When viewed, such a plug will seem to have a very narrow or no gap at all.If you adjust the gap on such a plug, you either get a weak spark or no spark at all, depending on the position of the electrode.Try the saw with another spark plug.

5. You could also check the strength of the spark by means of a very simple test, using a digital tachometer.Pull out the spark plug.Have the switch in the 'On' position.Hold the tach against the spark plug lead and pull the starter out .See the slowest speed that can give you a reading on the tach. 190 rpm is good, above that upto 225 is tolerable. anything below 190 is excellent.

If none of the above work for you, start considering a fuel supply problem.Either too much or too little.
I would prefer you come back with your feedback on the electrics before I give any suggestions on the fuel supply, because that is an elaborate subject and I am a 'single-finger-typist.


.

[konrad695]

Had a friend with the same problem around 10 to 15 hours of use.  His saw as it broke in when out of adjustment with carb.  Try loaning it to someone who cuts very often.  Let them beat it up with a weekend of oak and have them adjust near the end.  Some things just need to be run like you hate them.  If I'm right- you'll have a dirty saw that runs.  If I'm wrong-  your friend will tell you.
Konard

[Simonian]

Also you may want to check for a pin hole leak in the fuel line. Right where it leaves the gas tank and heads into the carb housing. For several years they have had this problem but now they have a new fuel line that should hold up.
These are sometimes easy to find by turning the saw upside down for 30 seconds. If fuel starts to drip you found it.
But sometimes it just a little crack, then you must pull on it to find it.
There is a fix it video on youtube that I made up http://youtube.com/watch?v=8jHm2eHvsqg  all in real time 6 min and 30 seconds from start to finish

[rusted]

Forgot to mention. If you get it running. When starting warm pull out the choke and push it in again this will open the carb. and keep it from flooding when you start it.

That's right, there is a latch on the choke lever that keys into the throttle lever.

I have had a few problems with my 350.  When I have it tuned ok it starts and runs fine.  But I am a novice tuner so I sometimes have problems, and once you're stuck in a hard strating cycle it's almost impossible to get the carb adjusted so it will even run.

Also the plastic stoppers (EPA mandate) mean you get a TINY amount of adjustment on the carb.  I wonder if taking them off will help me tune the saw the way I want.  There is no possible way to lean-out the saw with those stoppers, and as far as I can tell the low speed screw has no effect on the saw running.   ???

[rusted]

I have had this problem on Husky 365s, 372,and 385s. The problem was common to all of them. Though I am yet to see a Husky 350, you might want to check out what I have done to solve the problem.I am assuming that the 350 has common electrics with the Huskies that I have mentioned.
If none of the above work for you, start considering a fuel supply problem.Either too much or too little.
I would prefer you come back with your feedback on the electrics before I give any suggestions on the fuel supply, because that is an elaborate subject and I am a 'single-finger-typist.


.

In my case the spark is blue-white, nearly perfect, even on a 'weak' tug.  I know it's not the scientific study you're talking about, but it's one of the best sparks I've ever seen on a small motor.

I turned my saw upside down and even pulled the fuel line and sucked on it to test for leaks.  It seems 'ok'.  I'll replace it.

I don't want you to wear out your finger so I will wait for the other dude to post.  I eagerly wait to hear what you have to say about fuel.

I know with mine, when I have a problem starting it, I sit down with my wrenches and my air compressor, and blow out the horribly flooded cylinder and dry the plug until I cna get it to start.  It doesn't make a whit of difference where I put my adjustment screws.  When it's hard to start, it's ALWAYS a flooding problem.  ???

[Simonian]

When it's hard to start, it's ALWAYS a flooding problem.   
Not the only thing that makes them hard to start. Here are a few more: old gas, too much carbon on the plug, bad carb gasket, weak spark, and then something like a bad crank seal. Note the lack of bearing. What is interesting is there were no bearings in crank case, no metal dust and no internal damage to the engine. Just a bad seal that made it hard to start and adjust. I used carb cleaner to find the air leak. then disassembled  to find out why air was getting in at that location.
This was on a Husqvarna 350 / 345 Seen lots of use about 2 years worth.
Final note the bearing did not go anywhere. As they were never there to start with.

[dancan]

my brothers ( lightly used ) 340 had the same hard start issue , found that something got inside and caused the ring to stick .
you can pull the muffler and carb and look for scratches on the piston or take it to a small engine shop that you can trust and let them service it .
sometimes it's cheaper to pay for an hour's worth of service than days worth of aggravation .

[SawTroll]

When cold, never pull more than 3 or 4 times before you push the choke lever in, and push it in earlier, at she slightest sign that something is happening.
Don't trust the decomp to tell you when it has "popped".

When really warm, you don't need fast idle, so just pull the red tab streight up. to turn the ignition on.......

Otherwise, do as the user manual says.......... : :

[rusted]

When it's hard to start, it's ALWAYS a flooding problem.   

I hear ya, but I was just talking about mine.

I went ahead and cut the 'EPA tabs' off of the H and L adjustment screws.  I set them to 1 1/2 turns out (after GENTLY seating them, just barely enough to move the screw with my fingertips).

I started the saw up, and it ran perfectly.  I riched out the H screw a little bit until I got a clear 4-stroke (unmistakeable to my novice ears).  I didn't move the L screw at all from 1 1/2 turns out.

The saw idles perfectly, it starts cold instantly after two tugs (one choked, it sparks, open choke, and it fires right up).  Acceleration is the best since I've owned the saw.

I am outside the EPA adjustments on both screws now, to the rich.  It doesn't smoke, so I guess it's ok. 

I love my saw again.   8)

[Simonian]

I congratulate you on your success. As saws break in and get used a bit, most will be too lean and it is just not possible to get them rich enough with out removing the limiters.
You did what needed to be done and as good as the best.