iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

beginner

Started by josh, October 03, 2012, 11:18:49 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

EZland

Josh these guys are great on this forum.  No question is never too dumb, ask everything.  and if you do not believe it watch them ask each other even if they been in the "business"  for years.  I am working into a business, from a wood working hobbies.  Right now to me it is just another wood working tool, but milling or furniture business is a business.  Make a plan.  The mill is tool of the trade.  Do you research. 

Where is my market?  Is it a service or product?  Product you have to store and sell.  Service you get paid for by the piece, hour or whatever.

Product, where can I get it.  at the source or delivered. 

Equipment, how much, too much, finance, or not  Sawdust lover hit some key points on equipment. 

Are you a one man operation or employees.

Make a business plan,  outline, etc.  It will help you take the advice and put it in a organized manner. 

Key a great attitude, in business people remember that far longer than job messed up. 

I am not trying to sound like a know it all, just some dong the same research.
EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

Meadows Miller

Gday

And Welcome to The Forum Josh  ;) ;D ;D ;D 8) You have chosen a dang good mill to start out with  ;)  ;D as people have said we are hear to help Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

drobertson

When you get the kiln running, start with a small batch first. I would make a top plate with stickers that match your stack, and have it weighted to match or slightly exceed a complete bundle for the kilns' capacity.  Then go through the process, keeping notes and times of temps. Trial and error is the only way to perfect your conditions.  I would be very selective on the grade you dry, meaning go for the clearest of stock possible, allowing some room for pin knots, the size of your thumbnail or so,,then move on from there,   you can do it,
just remember, this is why when one buys finished dry oak, it takes a thick wallet. unless it is given to them by dad.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

josh

When you air dry the wood,  what is a good height for the stack to be off the ground?  Is there a something that should be down on the ground like a vapor barrior, gravel, or something else to make sure the bottom row doesn't get mold and stained?
Carpenter, moulder, farmer, husband, and oh yeah, did I mention REDNECK

WDH

The stack need to be about a foot off the ground.  A vapor barrier, like thick plastic, on the soil would do fine.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Meadows Miller

Gday

As Danny said 12"+ is ideal I achieve that with two 8x6" timbers the length of the stack you want to make and 4x3 to 6x3" on edge every 2' I screw them down to the timbers so I can pick them up with the loader in your climate I would not make your stacks wider than 40to48" wide 36" would be good too in your climate  but it all has relation to how high you want to go  ;) where i ran a h/wood drying op I had 40+ acres  that was stacked 20' high on 6' wide packs but we had good drying conditions too  ;) and a good Air Dry Yard (stack)is always on Gravel it keeps it drained and dry as well as making it easy to control grass/weeds you dont want your nice stack 12" of the ground with 2' of grass around it  ;) :) :D

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Thank You Sponsors!