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Building my mill...

Started by Kbeitz, April 17, 2015, 07:04:07 PM

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DYank

Dean

Kbeitz

Now that my mill is under a roof I think this winter I will make
a home made Simple set for my mill. I have a couple of these
new Gemini 2000 industrial control units sitting in storage and
I think they will work just fine for one. I just need to buy a
pulse generator for it. The unit will work off of 115 ac or
up to 14 VDC.



 



 

PULSE GENERATOR



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Peter Drouin

Wow. I have no need for magnets like that , so never had one. Thanks for the info guys.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Kbeitz

I was looking at encoders like the picture above on E-bay.
Wow $$$$ over $400.00. So today i made a trip to Trates
Surplus in Milton Pa today. It's an old building full of surplus
factory type stuff for sale. I was able to buy the encoder I
needed for my unit for $25.00 It was missing the plug cord
and that cost me more than the encoder. $37.00 But I now
have everything I need to get this project on it's way.



 



 

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

gww

K
Shopping is good, Knowing what to buy and what works seems to be the trick of the thing.  Most of us have a pretty hard time knowing what will work with what.  I guess that is the differance of the men from the boys.  This post reminds me that I am still in the potty pants part of growing toward manship when I look at the things you come up with to use to do what you want it to do.
Cheers
gww

fishfighter

That is a power buy K. If I was still working, I could get those for free. They used to change them out all the time if they needed or not.

Kbeitz

Quote from: fishfighter on November 18, 2016, 07:38:17 PM
That is a power buy K. If I was still working, I could get those for free. They used to change them out all the time if they needed or not.

Wow... Most that I looked at was between $200-300.00
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Quote from: gww on November 18, 2016, 06:59:30 PM
K
Shopping is good, Knowing what to buy and what works seems to be the trick of the thing.  Most of us have a pretty hard time knowing what will work with what.  I guess that is the differance of the men from the boys.  This post reminds me that I am still in the potty pants part of growing toward manship when I look at the things you come up with to use to do what you want it to do.
Cheers
gww

If you learn how things work it's not so hard.

A pulse generator is nothing more than a fancy rotating switch.

The Gemini 2000 is nothing but a programmable counter.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

4x4American

I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future.  I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff.  Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea.  I have many of them. 


For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off?  The things I think about...
Boy, back in my day..

Kbeitz

Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2016, 08:08:11 PM
I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future.  I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff.  Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea.  I have many of them. 


For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off?  The things I think about...

Magnets are extremely brittle. They would not make a good knife.
If you let two of them come cashing together most of the time they will break.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Learned something today... I was thinking for some reason that all miter saws
was 3600 rpm. Today I was working on my homemade band sharpener.
I was trying to fit my 8"x3/8"x1" E-bay grind stone on my newly found junk
yard miter saw. To get the stone up inside the guard I had to remove the
motor to make enough room for the stone to slide by the arbor bolt.
I also had to make new stone washers to fit the arbor and my stone.
After I got everything up and in place I plugged it in and bumped the
trigger. It ran great. So I got out my diamond stone dresser and shaped the
wheel to fit my band profile. When I finished I said to my self "Wow it seems fast". 
So I looked at the motor nameplate and it said 5000rpm... Opps... My stone is
only rated for 3600rpm. Well lucky me nothing happened. So back to E-bay to
buy a speed controller. I got this one for $18.00 free shipping.



 



 



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Kbeitz on November 22, 2016, 08:21:29 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2016, 08:08:11 PM
I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future.  I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff.  Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea.  I have many of them. 


For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off?  The things I think about...

Magnets are extremely brittle. They would not make a good knife.
If you let two of them come cashing together most of the time they will break.
I wanted to add their brittle nature  to the other safety concern about magnets.   I was handling several 1" diameter thin magnets one time and inadvertently let two slap together, one broke and pieces went flying.  I wouldn't let kids handle them without safety glasses.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

JRWoodchuck

Could you post of video of you using your sharpener? Seems quite simple. And chop saws seem to be relatively available for fairly low cost.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Kbeitz

More picturers will be coming. I'm still building it.
It's real hard to find the right size grinding stone
That will fit the saw. I need to make the vise and
The holding latch. I'm not sure if I will make it
Automatic or just manual yet. I still like using a
Dremel to sharpen my bands. I guess it's time to
Move up.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Waiting on this Thanksgiving Day for everyone to come for dinner
I got a little bit more done.



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

It's a good idea, I like it.  You also got lucky that stone didn't blow up on you!                                                                                 Can you adjust the stop for the downswing so you don't gouge your blade?                                                                            It looks like the tooth angle setting is quite a bit more than even 10°.  Why?
How are you going to keep the gullet shape?
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 10:14:32 AM
It's a good idea, I like it.  You also got lucky that stone didn't blow up on you!                                                                                 Can you adjust the stop for the downswing so you don't gouge your blade?                                                                            It looks like the tooth angle setting is quite a bit more than even 10°.  Why?
How are you going to keep the gullet shape?

The down swing had a bolt for the downswing stop. I replaced it with a longer one. The tooth angle setting is just what the blade was sat at for it the blade I was playing with.  I will be setting it at 4deg for my blades. I will keep The gullet shape with the profile of the grind stone.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D

Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree. 
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant.  They think it's better not to have the mess.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishfighter

K watching this build real close. I been collecting parts and pieces to build one like you doing. ;D

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D

Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree. 
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant.  They think it's better not to have the mess.

You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face. 

When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth.  If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.

Kbeitz

Quote from: fishfighter on November 25, 2016, 02:51:00 PM
K watching this build real close. I been collecting parts and pieces to build one like you doing. ;D

Hey... thanks...

Today I ordered two push latch toggle clamps off eBay.
One will advance the blade and the second one will lock the blade from movement.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D

Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree. 
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant.  They think it's better not to have the mess.

You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face. 

When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth.  If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.

Ok I got it. 
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left. I'll just stay with square across the tooth. 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 03:22:21 PM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D

Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree. 
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant.  They think it's better not to have the mess.

You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face. 

When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth.  If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.

Ok I got it. 
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left.
I'll just stay with square across the tooth.
No expert here but I would think that it would cause set issues.  The band teeth are pretty thin and if the face was angled, there would be stresses as it was cutting the wood wanting to bend it one way or another.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Quote from: ljohnsaw on November 25, 2016, 03:40:42 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 03:22:21 PM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now.  The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet.  You'll like doing your blades this way I bet!  Only way it could be better is with coolant.  Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square.  In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip.  I hope that made sense...?

I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is.  I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much.  No difference in cutting performance for me.  :D

Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree. 
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant.  They think it's better not to have the mess.

You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face. 

When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth.  If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.

Ok I got it. 
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left.
I'll just stay with square across the tooth.
No expert here but I would think that it would cause set issues.  The band teeth are pretty thin and if the face was angled, there would be stresses as it was cutting the wood wanting to bend it one way or another.

Your probably right.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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