Working with rough timbers

[TFramer34]

Hey guys,

It's been a while since I've posted--trying to make a run of the timber framing business, so I've swamped. I had a question I wanted to ask about.

A client of mine wants an entry way with rough fir timbers. To be honest, I agreed to the job having never worked with unplaned timbers before, without really taking into account  what it will mean to me. Firstly, it will be made up of 8x8 green also a new thing for me--although these ones have been air drying for 8 months) fir, with a  8 x10 girt. The timbers are a little out of square and the usual deflections you  find. I usually lay out using snap-line /square rule. two questions

1) when you guys scoop the timber to fit your housings, how do you go about finishing the scoop? rough it up?

for example: My 8x8 will be scooped to 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 fitting into a 1 inch housing. I usually scoop starting 3 inches back from my zero line. Thus leaving 3 inches of routed out material exposed.  With planed timbers I would then knock the start of the scoop at a 45 degree angle, then use a gourge (sp?) to make it look like all the work was hand scooped.


2) How do you guys usually clean the timbers and lay out lines after your finished?

any help would be awesome

cheers

[witterbound]

Use my chisel for the 45 degree, and get it as smooth as possible.  I've never "scooped."  Just because the timber is rough, doesn't mean the joinery has to be.

[Brad_bb]

I think you need to define some of your terms as they are not the common terms I am used to. 
Does scooped mean worked with an adze to simulate hewing?  Or does scooped mean to house your joint?  What do you mean by rough?  Rough sawn?  or a hewn finish, or simulated hewn finish?

Also, if you've been working with S4S planed timbers, why the need for snap line square rule?  Why not edge square rule.  You'd need snap line for hewn or wonky (irregular as in bowed, twisted etc) timbers.

Cleaning chalk or pencil lines can be done a number of ways.  A Makita wheel sander works well.  Not the most common too to find.  A new one will run you $400-$500.  You can achieve a number of interesting finishes with the wheel sander depending on the wheel used, and pressure applied.  If pencil lines are light and on a planed surface a large pencil eraser will work to some extent.  You can also try various brushes for chalk.  Some chalks are more permanent than other.

[TFramer34]

thanks for the responses.

The reason I use snap line with planed timbers, is because they are only hand planed with a makita beam planer. I do square them up with it, but snap line is still more accurate in my opinion.  What I mean by scoops (and I hope this makes sense) is that most of the timbers are housed in 1 inch housings.  So I scoop my timbers to 7 1/2 x 7 1/2  (on a 8x8 timber) so I know when I lay out my housing on the corresponding timber it is a 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 housing.   Depending on the location of the timber, I can position the scoops accordingly.

I'm not so computer savy, else I'd post some pictures to show what I mean.

[TFramer34]

Also, yeah, rough sawn timbers.

[beenthere]

thanks for the responses.
......
I'm not so computer savy, else I'd post some pictures to show what I mean.

And you don't need to be. If you have your pictures on your computer and have set up a gallery (in your profile) then just click on the Java Uploader under this "reply" window and follow the instructions. Should not require any more savy than you already have with the computer to be on the forum. 

Or go to the forum "Behind the Forum" on the home page and also see the instructions for posting pics.  If getting them from your camera to your computer is the problem, then holler for help.

Look forward to your pics.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

With rough sawn timbers the I use the edge square rule method I just finished my first large frame in years with dad in the last couple of weeks mate  ;) With housings (scoops) theres usually bugger  all  required I both square house and 45 some depending on the fit I'm looking for   and where it is in the frame  ;) 

I find and with removing chalk and pencil marks as Brad said a good 8" disk sander is about all I use for finishing and just run it over the whole timber I can lightly sand a 8x8" 24' long on all four sides in 5 to 10 min with one Matedo they want the grey look left or are they happy with having it rough sanded leaving the saw marks  ??? ??? As Beenthere said we like pics and yes I do have a few of this frame coming up for you's too Mate  ;)  :D ;D ;D 8)

Regards Chris