Chainsaw Bar

[overtime]

Just wondering what you guys are using for bars these days? I run husky 372 w/20" bar and I can't find a bar that will last any amount of time tryed Total,Forester. and the original husky bar that comes with the saw. The forester bar used to work the best for me but lately they don't seem to last. I run .58

[sawguy21]

More information would be helpful. Are you running solid bars with replaceable tips or laminated? What specific problems are you having? Bar issues are often the result of improperly tightened chains, lack of lubrication, forcing dull chain, or dirt.

[WildDog]

Sawguys hit the nail on the head. I prefer solid bars, don't go much on laminated ones, seems when they sell new saws here the bars are all laminated.

[shelbycharger400]

only issues i have ran into..is dirt wears the bars alot.
pruning with the tip wears the bar funny
OIL>...  cutting in below zero has proved to be an issue with one of my saws(johny)
bar turns black.   thin it out with gas so it will flow.
(i have never had an OIL problem with manual oilers!)

[lumberjack48]

There always a reason for bar failure, if running chain to tight, when you let off the throttle and the chain stops its to tight.

Greasing the tip will cause early failure, when you grease the tip it forms a barrier around out side of the bearing so that chain oil can't get in to it. So then your running a dry bearing.

Like sawguy says, lack of lubrication, running saw dull or rakers to high and forcing it, causing everything to get hot. Bar getting to hot, will kill a roller-nose real quick.

I haven't ran a solid-nose bar sense about 1970. I've seen guys burn them up, just-Ta  smoke-en, bar burnt brown en black on the end.

I've ran at -40 never had an oil flow problem as long as the oiler was set right and oil was thin enough, i use fuel oil to thin it out.