Im in the process of bringing home my first sawmill.
Go big or go home?
Has either a 54 or 56 inch blade and 73 feet of track. Carriage is 20 feet long and built out of two Frick 0 carriages and has 5 head blocks, 6 axles.
Husk frame is the base to a Estes power feed bolter.
Comes with a Tower edger and a 27 inch Frick edger and a board length edger and a swing saw. 4-71 Detroit powered.
Sawmill update - YouTube (https://youtu.be/_TNjkFuIqfs)
Yeesh. Nothing like taking the plunge!
Cool, welcome.....post lots of pictures .
Would having the track rails mounted directly to concrete be a bad idea?
Bad Idea. There is no place for the vibration to be absorbed. Your machine will vibrate more and probably become inaccurate in a short while. Over time, you will find the concrete mountings will work their way loose and will not retighten. There is a reason folks mount it on timbers, natural shock absorption.
Usually, some space is needed under the mill to allow removal of sawdust, flitches and debris plus provide room for the log clamps or other equipment.
Maybe you should describe how you are planning to put the mill directly on concrete. I've seen plenty of automatic mills sitting on steel frames that are on concrete floors. Those floors are thick and reinforced. The shock is taken in by the steel frame.
I think the wood will be cheaper and easier option to work with and does help with the shock level. I've seen concrete used for pilings and cross support. You'll need more support at the log end, due to the loading and turning of logs.
Take lots of pictures when you dismantle, as you will probably need them to put everything back together.
Well that is a heck of a first sawmill. Yikes...
Dang you don't mess around!
Looks like it's all there and then some. It will be alot of work. The mandrel could be an expensive problem. Don't overlook this because if it is not right you will never saw.
Sunday brought home another load of sawmill parts. Rollers on the bottom and a twin blade trimmer cut off saw chained down on top.
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Previous weekend I moved the 4-71 Detroit, Allis Chamers 2900 diesel, Tower and Frick edgers.
Was off work Monday and cleared where the sawmill will sit. Hiring the grading work out.
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Looks like you got enough toys to build a mill, I like that.
Quote from: moodnacreek on February 22, 2022, 12:44:56 PM
Looks like you got enough toys to build a mill, I like that.
To a point I do lol. The loader and mini ex belong to my neighbor across the street.
I've got a D8, a tractor and a backhoe but all three are currently in need of repair.
Awesome! Glad to see another circle mill being brought back to life. Good luck! Take tons of pictures and measurements before setting up track and husk etc.
Nothing like making boards on a circle mill. Nothing against them but I don't think the band mill guys know what there missing when it comes to the sheer production of a circle mill.
Quote from: Plankton on February 22, 2022, 01:41:56 PM
Awesome! Glad to see another circle mill being brought back to life. Good luck! Take tons of pictures and measurements before setting up track and husk etc.
Nothing like making boards on a circle mill. Nothing against them but I don't think the band mill guys know what there missing when it comes to the sheer production of a circle mill.
They don't and that's ok. They can go places and do things I can't. To saw logs fast all day long, out running your help, you need the iron. What I mean is a thick saw blade weather band or circle.
Found this tag on the two blade trimmer.
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Looks like a heck of a good start! I a little envious of that Detroit power unit.
Awesome! I like that old tag! Love seeing old stuff resurrected. Looking forward to seeing that beast back together for sure! Keep us posted. Blast it and throw some paint on it which your at it 👍. Do what it takes to get it done no matter what anybody says
Quote from: rusticretreater on February 16, 2022, 08:20:02 PM
Bad Idea. There is no place for the vibration to be absorbed. Your machine will vibrate more and probably become inaccurate in a short while. Over time, you will find the concrete mountings will work their way loose and will not retighten. There is a reason folks mount it on timbers, natural shock absorption.
Usually, some space is needed under the mill to allow removal of sawdust, flitches and debris plus provide room for the log clamps or other equipment.
Maybe you need to copy how it was setup and do that. Hope you took several pictures before you tore it all apart
Yep, a good sandblasting and repaint would be a good thing. Another mammoth undertaking though.
As far as the sawmill track I've decided to stick with wood. Some of it needs replaced but wood is still way cheaper then steel.
I'm sticking with duplicating the current layout of the mill also. Edger and trimmer will be in a slightly different spot. Going to add a flat belt pulley to the arbor to allow me to run the mill off steam. I do have a friend with a Case steam tractor.
Wow! Steam too...keep the pictures coming!
How can I tell what size Frick mill the carriage is from?
The runners the ells move on are 50 inches long. The Ells have 1180C stamped in them and the wheels are about 9 inches aross.
Teaser pic from today
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Quote from: OldRedFord on February 26, 2022, 07:30:18 PM
How can I tell what size Frick mill the carriage is from?
The runners the ells move on are 50 inches long. The Ells have 1180C stamped in them and the wheels are about 9 inches aross.
I am not a frick man and would not know but when you talk sawmills know the headblock opening [the distance from the headblock upright to the saw or add 1/2" if mill is apart] . And know your mandrel diameter and collar diameter. The set shaft size also. This info will give the expert a good idea what you have.
Set shaft is 1 11/16" and the head block opening is 40" so it looks like it's a Frick 01 carriage.
I've got one of the head blocks bound up. What would be the best way to go about freeing it up? This bound up rack is not impacting the rest of the head blocks moving.
Also noticed the setworks advances forward nice and easy but retracting the head blocks takes a lot of effort.
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40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.
Quote from: moodnacreek on February 27, 2022, 08:21:29 PM
40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.
It does have the reach rod. The bar that holds it up is broken off and missing.
Retracting always takes more effort, as you're moving a greater distance in one stroke than you do when advancing. Looks to me you need some good penetrating oil. Sponsor Logrite has Blue Creeper which I used for a lot of my lube on a big mill. Keeps everything moving without any oily buildup, which attracts dust.
If its bound up and not affecting the headblocks, I would wonder if the key is still there in the cog.
Can't wait to see this up and running, especially if it's driven by a steam tractor. I get my annual fix going to the Rough and Tumble Steam show in Lancaster cty, PA. They have a mill that they run from a steam tractor. It's marvelous to watch.
Steam tractor running antique sawmill Sawmills in action Rough & Tumble Kinzer, PA - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLATjqleOWI)
https://roughandtumble.org (https://roughandtumble.org/)
Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?
I assume right hand to tighten?
Look close at the threads..
Link to previous discussion
Mandrel Nut Right Hand or Left Hand Thread in Sawmills and Milling (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=90709.0)
The threaded end doesn't protrude from the nut? For something that spins rapidly, usually the nut screws on in the same direction as the rotation.
You can spray it with a solvent and try to work it back and forth until it comes off. Or heat it with an acetylene torch and then remove it.
Are you talking about the blade arbor? You can try to chock the blade with a chunk of wood, get a pipe wrench and a pipe that fits over the handle and use that leverage to get it off.
Wow. I'm in for the ride!
Use the proper box-end wrench on your arbor nut. Not a pipe wrench so's to keep from junking up the nut.
At 41:00 on this video link.
Trouble-Shooting a Small Circular Sawmill - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HGcrFSzlO8)
When I go back ill take a picture of the end of the blade arbor. The shaft stops just short of threading through the nut by two threads.
Been workimg on rough grading the sawmill site some more. Also brought back half the log deck and the concrete footings for it today. They are roughly 2x2x4 foot each.
The trough at the top of the trailer load is extra sawdust chain trough.
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Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me! :o I better just stay quiet.
Quote from: Cornerstone on March 13, 2022, 11:00:55 PM
Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me! :o I better just stay quiet.
I very much do. The building you see in some of my pics is my in progress barndominium build. 1/4 residence and 3/4s hobby machine shop. Also do my own stunts and generally can be found working alone.
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Old Red, You seem to be the person who will actually get it done. Most who start to set up an old mill never finish or can't get it to saw if they get that far. I just changed to a newer mill and it is running now. Took 6 months and that was with existing concrete and steel legs. Worked 7 days a week and the last 3 weeks dialing it in. Are you going to set those concrete squares in concrete?
Quote from: moodnacreek on March 14, 2022, 07:41:15 PM
Old Red, You seem to be the person who will actually get it done. Most who start to set up an old mill never finish or can't get it to saw if they get that far. I just changed to a newer mill and it is running now. Took 6 months and that was with existing concrete and steel legs. Worked 7 days a week and the last 3 weeks dialing it in. Are you going to set those concrete squares in concrete?
The blocks were just in the dirt. I don't plan to set them in concrete.
Thanks for the compliment. The guy I got the mill from said pretty much the same thing. I seem to have the drive to take on a project like this and the tools to get it done. Helps having machine shop equipment too.
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Old Red, Seems to me those blocks will settle. Up here we have frost heave and perhaps different soil so they would not be deep enough. Can you flood them with water a few times ? That might be the trick. My long time friend who helps on the mill on weekends has a machine shop. We are working on a top saw for my mill now.
Quote from: OldRedFord on March 13, 2022, 10:20:06 AM
Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?
I assume right hand to tighten?
I have had luck with big nuts, pipe fittings. Use one big hammer as a back up and smack the other side with the smaller one, do all sides this way.
Quote from: tacks Y on March 15, 2022, 09:15:01 AM
Quote from: OldRedFord on March 13, 2022, 10:20:06 AM
Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?
I assume right hand to tighten?
I have had luck with big nuts, pipe fittings. Use one big hammer as a back up and smack the other side with the smaller one, do all sides this way.
That is what I would do. The 'dolly' should be heavier than the hammer. In theory it will stretch the nut. The condition of the collars is the real concern here.
I found a picture of the saw arbor and nut.
Hope this helps.the discussion.
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Somebody's been there, it should be the other way with a thread or 2 exposed. Any way it's got to come off with the hammer trick or the blue wrench. Might be the wrong collar, check the diameter of both collars as they must be the same. they should be refaced on the lathe, 3 thousands tapered so only the outer edge touches the saw plate. the drive pins should be like new also that is no notches or bends. If you don't know about these details get the book. The bearing next to the saw must be in top shape also as to make no heat as just a little will swell the saw.
Yeah something is wrong there. The nut is not fully engaged with the arbor and so the holding power is weaker. Funny its weaker, but you can't get it to come off!
Soak it in penetrating oil, try the hammer method, then the torch and leverage on the wrench. If all the other nuts and bolts on the saw are standard sizes with no really difficult to find thread sizes, you can probably find another nut to fit it. If you have to, get a nut splitter and let it have it.
I've had an arbor nut seize on the arbor a couple of times. It comes from hanging a saw. The first time was due to inexperience. Another time I had a problem log that had rot that came off the dogs in the middle of a cut. Not pretty.
The first one took me a long time to get off. The second one was cut off with a torch. If the nut is seized on due to an accident, your collars will probably be smashed.
You got some equipment!!
The drive pins drive the saw with the help of the collars that clamp it. These 2 pins are mistakenly called shear pins even by some experts. If those pins even get dented by a hang up in the log the nut will be over tightened . That will tend to flatten the taper machined on the collars. If the pins are bent or sheared the threaded spindle end may be bent in addition to the collar damage. Also that nut gets tightened by hand with a wrench half the diameter of the saw with the pins against the 2 pin holes in the saw so they don't get slammed in the holes. Jamming a saw in the cut is to be avoided at all costs.
A short update. Took some time from moving the sawmill seeing my neighbor sold his loader to work on the shop. Been looking at a loader or something for myself. I should be getting back to moving the rest of the sawmill after Easter.
Here's what I've found with the arbor. But is right hand thread.
Oops. Somehow I didn't add pictures.
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I am loving the pictures. I am setting up my first sawmill, and it's a Frick, and wish my carriage was steel like yours. These guys in here have helped me so much with so many technical issues.
How tight should the pins be in the collar? The holes are a bit loose fitting.
Picked up in we to rebuild the rail bed for the carriage.
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Making headway 💪
Two weeks ago I got another load of parts.
This time the husk frame and hydrulic pump and the overhead chain conveyor, swing saw and a few swctions of roller conveyors.
Today I got around to unloading it all.
Set the husk frame/hydrulic pump on the back of yet another future project truck. I'd like to build a lot turner and plumb it into the hydrulic pump in the not so distant future.
All that's left to move are four concrete blocks, and the framework that the husk frame bolts to and the section of track with the cable drum.
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Good looking IH 175.Worked at a IH dealership around 1977 and remember new ones on the lot.Track loaders were still pretty popular at that time.
Quote from: Wlmedley on June 25, 2022, 10:27:35 PM
Good looking IH 175.Worked at a IH dealership around 1977 and remember new ones on the lot.Track loaders were still pretty popular at that time.
Thanks. I like it. Pretty handy aroumd my place. Not as maneuverable as a wheel loader but it fits my current needs.
I figure if something catastrophic happened to the loader it's self the DT466 could power the sawmill instead of the Detroit.
Hopefully soon I can get another load of sawmill parts home.
That DT466 was one of the best IH engines.We sold a bunch of TD15 dozers which is basically same running gear as your 175.Tough machine.
This beam will become part of my sawmill shed roof. I need about a 25 foot span along one side with no support to accommodate the log deck and allow logs to be rolled into the carriage. Roof structure will be trusses on 48" center. 2x4 purlins and metal roofing. So not a huge amount of weight.
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Looks like a fun project.
How much sag will you have in that beam just under its own weight?
The mandrel collars need to be turned and the pins are junk, just make new ones the same dia. as they don't fit tight. Use 'the book' as a guide in re cutting the collars. The lathe will tell if the mandrel is straight. Of course the bearings and their fit on the shaft must be dealt with.
Quote from: beenthere on July 26, 2022, 08:47:31 PM
Looks like a fun project.
How much sag will you have in that beam just under its own weight?
Not entirely sure. Looking for my steel construction book that has load tables in it.
It's a 6x6 beam with .250 web thickness and currently 30 feet long. Dont have much snow load here in GA.
Quote from: moodnacreek on July 27, 2022, 08:40:54 AM
The mandrel collars need to be turned and the pins are junk, just make new ones the same dia. as they don't fit tight. Use 'the book' as a guide in re cutting the collars. The lathe will tell if the mandrel is straight. Of course the bearings and their fit on the shaft must be dealt with.
It's all fun and games until you realize your Monarch lathe with a 120" center distance is too short to fit the arbor in. So.....not entirely sure what to do there.
The mandrel is the heart of any circle mill and if not in near perfect condition there will be endless frustration. After that it's all about straight and level. With good bearing and fit you might consider turning it in place. Hammermen do it all the time with a homemade jig.
Quote from: moodnacreek on July 27, 2022, 07:05:15 PM
The mandrel is the heart of any circle mill and if not in near perfect condition there will be endless frustration. After that it's all about straight and level. With good bearing and fit you might consider turning it in place. Hammermen do it all the time with a homemade jig.
I feel like that setup might be outside of my skill set. I'd be willing to have a machine shop do the work. Unless there's a nearby hammerman that could do it.
A quick look on the way out the door. I'm not seeing any 6" W shapes listed beyond a 14' span.
Quote from: Don P on July 28, 2022, 08:10:57 AM
A quick look on the way out the door. I'm not seeing any 6" W shapes listed beyond a 14' span.
Yup. Looking like it might be too small for my needs. I'll just put it off to the side.
Why is the I beam referred to as a W shape?
Just terminology of the trade.
It?s W-Beam, not I-Beam?you Dummy! ? Steel House (http://steelhouseindy.com/its-w-beam-not-i-beamyou-dummy/)
Beenthere answered while I was looking at tables, there are W's, M, H, and S shapes of I beam depending on the peculiarities.
It looks to be a "Wide Flange" shape, which is the most common "I beam". That ~6" depth x ~6" flange width comes in 3 weights 15,20 and 25 lbs/ft. A true 5.99" x 6" x 1/4" web thickness is a W6x15. In the easy tables each has a different maximum uniformly distributed load listed for each foot of span. Those beams don't have anything listed beyond 14' but were still quite strong, having ratings from 11,000-19,000 lbs. That beam won't get you where you need to be but would make 2 nice well connected end posts for that portal frame.
If you are 28'wide, no snow and light roof, maybe 7,000 lbs total on the beam and an equal amount on the back wall. This might be a beam in the toolbox..
Take a look at a W10x15 or heavier, or deeper.
Sizing a Steel Beam (forestryforum.com) (https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/steelbeamclc.htm)
Quote from: Don P on July 28, 2022, 06:17:53 PM
Beenthere answered while I was looking at tables, there are W's, M, H, and S shapes of I beam depending on the peculiarities.
It looks to be a "Wide Flange" shape, which is the most common "I beam". That ~6" depth x ~6" flange width comes in 3 weights 15,20 and 25 lbs/ft. A true 5.99" x 6" x 1/4" web thickness is a W6x15. In the easy tables each has a different maximum uniformly distributed load listed for each foot of span. Those beams don't have anything listed beyond 14' but were still quite strong, having ratings from 11,000-19,000 lbs. That beam won't get you where you need to be but would make 2 nice well connected end posts for that portal frame.
If you are 28'wide, no snow and light roof, maybe 7,000 lbs total on the beam and an equal amount on the back wall. This might be a beam in the toolbox..
Take a look at a W10x15 or heavier, or deeper.
Sizing a Steel Beam (forestryforum.com) (https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/steelbeamclc.htm)
Thanks for that link. I guessed on the KSI but looks like a W12x106 may work nicely with a 25 foot span. Used 50 KSI and 30 lbs per square foot of roof load. (My metal building is designed for 28 lbs per square foot)
That is a honkin beam, something isn't right, how wide are the trusses, as in, how deep is the building?
The KSI.. K=thousand pounds, SI= per square inch tensile strength. The structural steel I grew up with was A36, you'll usually see that somewhere on the web of older steel, 36,000 lb tensile strength. Modern stuff is mostly 50ksi steel.
Good luck with your new mill! Looks like you have all you need to get it up and running. You are young enough to have the enthusiasm to succeed, just make sure you have good help around when running your mill. My grandfather used to work a circle mill, and he constantly warned me about the need for safety, and keeping those around you on their toes! Good luck! 8)
Quote from: Don P on July 28, 2022, 11:00:09 PM
That is a honkin beam, something isn't right, how wide are the trusses, as in, how deep is the building?
The KSI.. K=thousand pounds, SI= per square inch tensile strength. The structural steel I grew up with was A36, you'll usually see that somewhere on the web of older steel, 36,000 lb tensile strength. Modern stuff is mostly 50ksi steel.
I'm shooting for a 25foot wide building, with a 2:12 roof pitch and 2' overhang on each wall.
Let's walk through the inputs;
beam span= 252
Trib width. The roof is 29' wide total, half is supported on the entry beam, half is supported on the back wall. Trib width on the beam is then 174"
uniform load 30
yield strength 36, assuming a pre owned beam
I'm getting a barely pass at W12x16 lbs per foot.
Lets look at the dimensions of that.. 12" deep, 4" wide flanges, 1/4" thickness of web and flanges. A W12x19 is the same with 3/8" thick flanges.
Quote from: Don P on July 30, 2022, 06:48:50 AM
Let's walk through the inputs;
beam span= 252
Trib width. The roof is 29' wide total, half is supported on the entry beam, half is supported on the back wall. Trib width on the beam is then 174"
uniform load 30
yield strength 36, assuming a pre owned beam
I'm getting a barely pass at W12x16 lbs per foot.
Lets look at the dimensions of that.. 12" deep, 4" wide flanges, 1/4" thickness of web and flanges. A W12x19 is the same with 3/8" thick flanges.
Geez Don, in New York you could charge for that info :).
Would welding 1/4" angle iron flanges with a half inch hole drilled through to said original W beam, then building up a header consisting of 4, 2x12 between give you enough strength to span the opening? I'd use 1/2 in galvanized bolts every 16". That would give the beam a 16 in plus depth.
I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't know where to begin. A truss of some form would work.
I'd start by scouring scrap piles for something with those W12x19 dimensions or larger.
I actually have a similar I beam, and a sawmill. Just where my mind went....an "I could do it this way" thought...A truss would be far more practical as would a big enough beam. My ancestry shows through, my brain remembered one in my little pile of red steel....
A very easy alternative has come up.
In the photo say I wanted a open shed in front of my shop. I build the support structure of the roof to be higher then the peak of the building, gable end is facing me.
Do the exact same thing for the sawmill building. The lower section over the track, edger etc and the higher, front facing gable over the log deck.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41260/IMG_20220731_181244637_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1659305455)
Making the gable end the log deck does give the potential for a building size opening :)
Log deck openings on a sawmill building are always worth a glance. Mine is a steel 6x8 arched [box] gard rail under a 10x12 wood beam and it is only 21' opening. Often they are 25' and wood with cracks and starting to sag. In the old days they would put a truss on the roof with a center pull up rod. Not often seen is the cable under the beam with center fulcrum and the cable pulled tight with turn buckle or eye bolt. They key to this trick is the strength of the post/beam connection. If done right this is a very strong support for the span with a light beam.
A lot of the granite sheds in Barre Vermont are built in the manner described in the previous post.
I find the design very pleasing as well as functional.
In addition to the 4-71 Detroit, the sawmill also came with a Allis Chalmers 2900 turbo diesel engine from a combine. I think it's around 130 hp.
Is it powerful enough to run a three blade Frick edger?
Quote from: OldRedFord on August 28, 2022, 03:52:46 PM
In addition to the 4-71 Detroit, the sawmill also came with a Allis Chalmers 2900 turbo diesel engine from a combine. I think it's around 130 hp.
Is it powerful enough to run a three blade Frick edger?
You will do fine with a 30 hp engine for normal edging. After that you are wasting expensive fuel.
Finally got down to get another load of sawmill parts. This time the chain trough in the pit and the section of track with the carriage winch above the pit.
All that's left to move now are four large blocks of concrete that make up half of the support footings for the log deck. At this point I can start putting it back together.
Just stuck on working out the saw pit and the sawdust chain will have to go the opposite direction from how it was set up.
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I think I'm going to not use the sawdust chain and go with a blower. I'm thinking of adapting a old walk behind parking lot blower for the task. Has anyone done this?
Sorta, that's the same blower I believe attached to a tow behind grass wagon.
This was a gang rip going on, ignore the lucas. To the right of the tractor driving the Belsaw is a trailer with one of those blowers mounted on it. You can see the hose from the tongue mounted blower going up into the box. When he is running the vents on top open to let the air out and the dust mostly stays in the wagon.
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When I piled sawdust behind the mill I used a chain. That got out of control [and I am on the creek bank] and I moved the slab wood saw back there and needed access so now it is a blower putting sawdust in a large wagon box. I really don't like sawdust blowers; they are loud and can keep dust in the air. They take more power than a chain also. If I had unlimited room it would be a chain.
Quote from: moodnacreek on November 01, 2022, 08:45:36 AM
When I piled sawdust behind the mill I used a chain. That got out of control [and I am on the creek bank] and I moved the slab wood saw back there and needed access so now it is a blower putting sawdust in a large wagon box. I really don't like sawdust blowers; they are loud and can keep dust in the air. They take more power than a chain also. If I had unlimited room it would be a chain.
Noise is relative when you have a Detroit running the saw. :D If I did go with the blower it would have a gas engine for power.
Figured I'd move the carriage inside seeing I'm going to be doing some logging behind my building to make way for my septic system installation. Felt like a safe move. Will also be looking at the wheel bearings while I have it inside.
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What a great project! Here it is November 2022 how's it coming along would love to see how you're doing.
Quote from: markd on November 08, 2022, 09:16:20 AM
What a great project! Here it is November 2022 how's it coming along would love to see how you're doing.
I'm hoping to get going on putting the track back together and setting the husk frame soon.
Trying to make up my mind on how to remove sawdust from the pit....
One of the track adjustors on my loader decided to give up on me. Waiting on parts to fix that.
After the loader is fixed I can finish up grading out the sawmill area.
In between all that I need a septic system installed before December 17th when my permit runs out and a inspection on my rough electric/plumbing/framing work on the house before then too.
Sure is busy being a one man band!
If you can do all that I am confident that you will actually saw logs one day. Of the few circle mill builds I was aware of around here in the past 40 years none ever ran. Last year it took me 5 months to install a mill in an existing building with the leg sets/concrete already there. I worked on it every day and had everything on it repaired and painted the summer before. I am still cleaning up the mess I left by concentrating on nothing but the sawmill. Keep up the good work, Doug
Work on getting the Frick sawmill back into shape has begun.
I simply dismantled one of the dogs on the carriage and will be making a new pin that goes through the gear. Clean up the rust and check the spring in each handle. There are five dogs on my mill.
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Wanted to take a look at the wheel bearings on the carriage so I took one wheel off. Honestly did not expect tapered roller bearings. Grease is so old it's almost rubber.
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Planned improvement for the dogs. New handles with a ball threaded on the end.
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Decided to check one of the wheel bearings on the sawmill carriage. Packed full of grease that was almost rubber. Each wheel.seems to have one outer race with two taper bearings.
Here's a short video of the outer race in the one wheel I pulled off. All the wheels seem to have a fair amount of slop.
I googled the bearing Timken 14136A but so far all I see are bearings with individual outer races and not a one piece setup like it appears I have. At the moment I don't have access to a press to push out the race.
The bearings are a interesting design and have a lip.
https://youtube.com/shorts/zPa8OhiBiVE?feature=share
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Heat and a 20 ton press didn't budge the bearing race. Tonight I put a weld around the bearing race. Tapped with a hammer and no movement.
I personally don't have a press at this time so I'm running out of ideas.
If you heat that spoked wheel heat the rim and a few spokes first as you go to the center, if just the hub is heated it might break. A weld around that cup and it should fall out ??
Quote from: moodnacreek on November 20, 2022, 08:19:18 PM
If you heat that spoked wheel heat the rim and a few spokes first as you go to the center, if just the hub is heated it might break. A weld around that cup and it should fall out ??
Tried the weld tonight. No luck. I was hoping to not torch it out so I could get the number off the race. But I'll cut it out if that's what it takes.
Welp I've screwed up.
I'll let the video explain.
November 22, 2022 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/GhJckKS2Wes)
Anytime I did what you did it worked when the weld cooled. Could you lay that wheel flat on a wood block or plank and set up some vibration against the weld [from the back side] with an air chisel? Too bad there are no punch holes to drive the cup out. Some spray a freeze solution , it can be bought in areosol cans. I have some but haven't tried it .
Quote from: OldRedFord on November 22, 2022, 07:33:22 PM
Welp I've screwed up.
I'll let the video explain.
November 22, 2022 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/GhJckKS2Wes)
Are you saying that you welded the race to the wheel?
I like your determination 👍
Got one bearing race bored out. Need to aneal the other side to cut the weld.
2nd picture is looking at where exactly the carriage track will sit. I'm still working that out but easier with a piece to look at. Need to replace all the wood.
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" Need to aneal the weld" Yes you do but who in H would know that today! Keep posting.
Quote from: moodnacreek on November 27, 2022, 10:05:17 AM
" Need to aneal the weld" Yes you do but who in H would know that today! Keep posting.
Going to try. Been pushing hard to be ready to have my septic system installed on December 12 for my barndominim project.
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Then realized the sight glass for the headstock oil level in my lathe is stained and not showing the actual oil level. Got that pulled off for cleaning. :-[(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41260/received_459942076251971.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1669682854)
Doing my best to get my electrical rough 90% done so I can get a rough in inspection done. When I pulled my building permit I went for a 400 amp service. I'll also have a 40 or 60 horse rotary phase converter for my shop equipment and may run the Frick edger off a 20 hp three phase motor or a electric powered sawdust blower.
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Your really going to town Red. Do it now while you are young. My little shop is single phase as is the green chain but the sawmill is 3 phase / 480 V off my gen set, 175 kw. The price of fuel is a killer here. makes me not want to saw but winter is the time for sawing and I sold a lot this summer so it is time to replenish . Even if you just had the sawmill to rebuild and set up it is much work and taking short cuts will kill you later. Where did you learn machine work?
Quote from: moodnacreek on November 28, 2022, 09:53:27 PM
Your really going to town Red. Do it now while you are young. My little shop is single phase as is the green chain but the sawmill is 3 phase / 480 V off my gen set, 175 kw. The price of fuel is a killer here. makes me not want to saw but winter is the time for sawing and I sold a lot this summer so it is time to replenish . Even if you just had the sawmill to rebuild and set up it is much work and taking short cuts will kill you later. Where did you learn machine work?
Didn't own a lathe until two years ago but had used one when I took welding in college. YouTube is a good teacher too. Two favorites would be Abom79 and Keith Rucker.
First time I ever did any threading on a lathe. https://youtu.be/M1aaRs0BhdU
Aside from that is just intuition and trying things.
Unless I am really in trouble I have little patience for videos with all the music and adds. Once I could not get a timing belt on so go to you tube and watch some nut and he couldn't do it either. Had to get a book. I would much rather read if I can. Anyhow I am surprised at your knowledge and ambition.
Shortly before Christmas I had the building inspector out for my shop/house build. Was hoping for an extension on my building permit and I got 90 days to finish my rough in work so the sawmill has been on hold. Maybe not a full holding off on that project but 75% of my focus has been on my building so sorry for the lack of updates.
Wiring up the 400 amp service...
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Got new bearing races in the carriage wheel. Used a die grinder with a carbide bur to remove the weld and a guick hit with a air chisel and the welded in bearing race popped out.
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Looks to be a nice setup! Looking good 👍
Nice project - enjoyed the pics and good luck!
Way above my skill level, or even desire.
I haven't given up on the sawmill. Just haven't had much time so far to mess with it much.
Doing my best to reach my goal of finishing my barndominim by September.