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Author Topic: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers  (Read 18347 times)

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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #180 on: April 13, 2019, 05:14:16 PM »
   Most of us, portable and stationary, try to get into a routine with a standardized process for typical sawing, set up, break down, etc.

   During sawing, if hydraulic, be sure to lower the toeboards between each log/cant. This helps prevent damage to the hydraulics and helps prevent memory lapses and long wedges.

Before loading each new log includes:

1. Raise the side supports (Most of us have rolled at least one log completely across the mill and can attest it is easier to roll one off than to roll it back on)
2. Lower the clamp and toeboards
3. Once the log is loaded lower the lifting arms part way in case the log rolls back and to be out of the way of the saw head. 

End of the day (Mill staying on site) include:

1. Remove the blade
2. Blow out all sawdust and remove bark and broken wood from under/around the mill.
3. Lock the mill and load and clamp a log on it overnight to deter/annoy any would be thieves in the area
4. Remove the fuel and lube tanks and refill overnight/store in heated storage (for lube tank if chance of freezing)
5. Raise the lifting arms and feet (to keep them from freezing to the ground if cold weather applies)
6. Cover the mill
7. Sweep/Check the area for any tools, bands, etc left out and secure them for the night. 

   I have other standard steps for set up and breakdown for transport at the end of the job not listed here. set up what works for you, follow and fine tune as needed. As Yellowhammer (I think it is) says: Take steps to save steps. This applies to sawing efficiently and making sure you don't forget some small critical step, tool or part that costs you time and money to repair, return for or replace.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline rooster 58

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #181 on: April 13, 2019, 05:22:54 PM »
Keyote,
    One way would be to use a 45- 48' trust, and go as deep as you want to have room for your mill and operation 

Offline rooster 58

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #182 on: April 13, 2019, 05:46:42 PM »
Last week, I thought I had the mill ready to travel. I took one last look and saw that the clamp was in the wrong position (open half way), which could have been bad if it struck something. So before I leave,  I look under the mill to make sure everything is in travel position 

Offline Darrel

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #183 on: April 13, 2019, 06:33:38 PM »
Magicman, seeing you pickaroon in reply 179 reminds me that my pickaroon has mortar on it. It belonged to my father in law and he was a stone mason. But really, mortar on a pickaroon?  I suppose that if there wasn't mortar on it, it wasn't a tool. 
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Offline Magicman

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #184 on: April 13, 2019, 08:08:52 PM »
I believe that mine is the only "green from the factory" Hookaroon that Logrite ever produced.  ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #185 on: September 07, 2021, 03:56:05 PM »
   Been a while since I've seen this thread and my tip today will actually work just as well for stationary sawyers with hydraulic loaders. Not all of us have the fancy log centering devices like Peter has so we sometimes roll a log on to the loading arms a bit off center. This technique works best with short logs and even better if you happen to have a helper. Load the log on to the arms and if you see it is off center raise the arms just to the point it is ready to roll off on to the bed of the mill. If you have a helper let them help hold it back. When you are right at bed height push the log and swing the long end to the mill at an angle so it will hits the side supports first. You can often move the log a foot or closer to being centered in this fashion. Actually if you wanted to you could roll the log back on to the arms and repeat and get even closer to center.

   I know it is easier to center the logs on the arms first but sometimes these extra few inches make a real difference. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Chuck White

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #186 on: September 07, 2021, 06:35:10 PM »
That works really well Howard, we do that a lot!

Another trick we use, since my mill has the old style flipper clamp, we lower the clamp and roll the log onto it (it's 3/4" higher), turn the log and center it that way, repeat as necessary.

Some of the newer mills with the 2-plane clamp can use it to do the same thing!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer, 2018 Silverado 4X4
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Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain a Wood-Mizer

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #187 on: September 07, 2021, 07:44:42 PM »
Chuck,

   I can see how that would work with my clamp too. Just raise the side supports for safety sake, center the clamp under the log, raise the log just enough to clear the bed, point the long end towards the partially raised loading arms and roll it on to them and it will straighten some, then lift and roll back on and repeat if needed. 

   I use the clamp to spin a cant when I and sawing LE siding. I saw off a flat spot off the top, rotate it 90 degrees to rest against the side supports, start sawing LE siding (Back is square, front is LE) till I get about half way down or till the clamp or side supports interfere, rotate the cant forward 90 degrees, lift slightly with the clamp, spin the cant 180 degrees, lower the clamp and flip the cant back so the same back is against the side supports again with the LE to the front, clamp and saw to the rails.

   Using the clamp as a pivot is a handy trick whether sawing LE siding or centering a log.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #188 on: September 10, 2021, 09:30:27 PM »
  And of course if you have a hydraulic mill you can the MM's trick of using your Magic Hook over the side supports to move the log a few inches at a time. Hook the hook in the end of the log opposite the end of the mill direction you want to move it. Then you raise or lower the side supports to slide/roll the log in the desired direction. Be careful when lowering the side support not to lower them so far the log rolls off. You may have to stop and raise or lower the side supports and readjust the chain length on your Magic hook  a couple of times to move the log far enough, usually just enough to get it on the toeboard where you can raise it and roll it after that. This only works with the fold away side supports and not the vertical ones that just rise straight up and down.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"


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