First sawmill

[OldRedFord]

A short update. Took some time from moving the sawmill seeing my neighbor sold his loader to work on the shop. Been looking at a loader or something for myself. I should be getting back to moving the rest of the sawmill after Easter.

[OldRedFord]

Here's what I've found with the arbor. But is right hand thread.

[OldRedFord]

Oops. Somehow I didn't add pictures. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[arsascusa]

I am loving the pictures. I am setting up my first sawmill, and it's a Frick, and wish my carriage was steel like yours. These guys in here have helped me so much with so many technical issues. 

[OldRedFord]

How tight should the pins be in the collar? The holes are a bit loose fitting. 

[OldRedFord]

Picked up in we to rebuild the rail bed for the carriage. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Walnut Beast]

Making headway 💪

[OldRedFord]

Two weeks ago I got another load of parts. 

This time the husk frame and hydrulic pump and the overhead chain conveyor, swing saw and a few swctions of roller conveyors. 

Today I got around to unloading it all. 

Set the husk frame/hydrulic pump on the back of yet another future project truck. I'd like to build a lot turner and plumb it into the hydrulic pump in the not so distant future. 

All that's left to move are four concrete blocks, and the framework that the husk frame bolts to and the section of track with the cable drum. 



 

 

 

 

 

 

[Wlmedley]

Good looking IH 175.Worked at a IH dealership around 1977 and remember new ones on the lot.Track loaders were still pretty popular at that time.

[OldRedFord]

Good looking IH 175.Worked at a IH dealership around 1977 and remember new ones on the lot.Track loaders were still pretty popular at that time.

Thanks. I like it. Pretty handy aroumd my place. Not as maneuverable as a wheel loader but it fits my current needs. 
I figure if something catastrophic happened to the loader it's self the DT466 could power the sawmill instead of the Detroit. 
Hopefully soon I can get another load of sawmill parts home. 

[Wlmedley]

That DT466 was one of the best IH engines.We sold a bunch of TD15 dozers which is basically same  running gear as your 175.Tough machine.

[OldRedFord]

This beam will become part of my sawmill shed roof. I need about a 25 foot span along one side with no support to accommodate the log deck and allow logs to be rolled into the carriage. Roof structure will be trusses on 48" center. 2x4 purlins and metal roofing. So not a huge amount of weight.

[beenthere]

Looks like a fun project.

How much sag will you have in that beam just under its own weight? 

[moodnacreek]

The mandrel collars need to be turned and the pins are junk, just make new ones the same dia. as they don't fit tight. Use 'the book' as a guide in re cutting the collars. The lathe will tell if the mandrel is straight. Of course the bearings and their fit on the shaft must be dealt with.

[OldRedFord]

Looks like a fun project.

How much sag will you have in that beam just under its own weight?

Not entirely sure. Looking for my steel construction book that has load tables in it.
It's a 6x6 beam with .250 web thickness and currently 30 feet long. Dont have much snow load here in GA. 

[OldRedFord]

The mandrel collars need to be turned and the pins are junk, just make new ones the same dia. as they don't fit tight. Use 'the book' as a guide in re cutting the collars. The lathe will tell if the mandrel is straight. Of course the bearings and their fit on the shaft must be dealt with.

It's all fun and games until you realize your Monarch lathe with a 120" center distance is too short to fit the arbor in. So.....not entirely sure what to do there. 

[moodnacreek]

The mandrel is the heart of any circle mill and if not in near perfect condition there will be endless frustration. After that it's all about straight and level. With good bearing and fit you might consider turning it in place. Hammermen do it all the time with a homemade jig.

[OldRedFord]

The mandrel is the heart of any circle mill and if not in near perfect condition there will be endless frustration. After that it's all about straight and level. With good bearing and fit you might consider turning it in place. Hammermen do it all the time with a homemade jig.

I feel like that setup might be outside of my skill set. I'd be willing to have a machine shop do the work. Unless there's a nearby hammerman that could do it. 

[Don P]

A quick look on the way out the door. I'm not seeing any 6" W shapes listed beyond a 14' span.

[OldRedFord]

A quick look on the way out the door. I'm not seeing any 6" W shapes listed beyond a 14' span.

Yup. Looking like it might be too small for my needs. I'll just put it off to the side. 

[JRWoodchuck]

Why is the I beam referred to as a W shape? 

[beenthere]

Just terminology of the trade. 
It?s W-Beam, not I-Beam?you Dummy! ? Steel House

[Don P]

Beenthere answered while I was looking at tables, there are W's, M, H, and S  shapes of I beam depending on the peculiarities.

It looks to be a "Wide Flange" shape, which is the most common "I beam". That ~6" depth x ~6" flange width comes in 3 weights 15,20 and 25 lbs/ft. A true 5.99" x 6" x 1/4" web thickness is a W6x15. In the easy tables each has a different maximum uniformly distributed load listed for each foot of span. Those beams don't have anything listed beyond 14' but were still quite strong, having ratings from 11,000-19,000 lbs. That beam won't get you where you need to be but would make 2 nice well connected end posts for that portal frame.

If you are 28'wide, no snow and light roof, maybe 7,000 lbs total on the beam and an equal amount on the back wall. This might be a beam in the toolbox..
Take a look at a W10x15 or heavier, or deeper.
Sizing a Steel Beam (forestryforum.com)

[OldRedFord]

Beenthere answered while I was looking at tables, there are W's, M, H, and S  shapes of I beam depending on the peculiarities.

It looks to be a "Wide Flange" shape, which is the most common "I beam". That ~6" depth x ~6" flange width comes in 3 weights 15,20 and 25 lbs/ft. A true 5.99" x 6" x 1/4" web thickness is a W6x15. In the easy tables each has a different maximum uniformly distributed load listed for each foot of span. Those beams don't have anything listed beyond 14' but were still quite strong, having ratings from 11,000-19,000 lbs. That beam won't get you where you need to be but would make 2 nice well connected end posts for that portal frame.

If you are 28'wide, no snow and light roof, maybe 7,000 lbs total on the beam and an equal amount on the back wall. This might be a beam in the toolbox..
Take a look at a W10x15 or heavier, or deeper.
Sizing a Steel Beam (forestryforum.com)

Thanks for that link. I guessed on the KSI but looks like a W12x106 may work nicely with a 25 foot span.  Used 50 KSI and 30 lbs per square foot of roof load. (My metal building is designed for 28 lbs per square foot)

[Don P]

 That is a honkin beam, something isn't right, how wide are the trusses, as in, how deep is the building?

The KSI.. K=thousand pounds, SI= per square inch tensile strength. The structural steel I grew up with was A36, you'll usually see that somewhere on the web of older steel, 36,000 lb tensile strength. Modern stuff is mostly 50ksi steel.