Question about Munkfors Bands

[Gere Flewelling]

I have a saw sharpening customer who has a couple of Munkfors bands that I will be sharpening for the first time. I did some measurements on the first band to make sure I sharpen it back to original spec's. I looked on Munkfors site but couldn't seem to find the specific info I needed. I am hoping there are some Munkfors users that might share there knowledge and opinions with me. The first band has the conventional style teeth (not the chip sweeping style). It is an 1 1/2"x7/8". It appears to be a 4 degree hook angle and has about .020" set. I have sharpened lots of Cook's and Woodmizer bands and have never come across any 1 1/2"x7/8" with such a low hook angle.  The other bands I have sharpened for this particular sawmill and customer have had 8 degree hook angles and .028" set in the teeth. The customer reported that he was sawing exceptionally pitchy pine and was having issues with his water drip system on his Baker mill. He said the blade suddenly turned white (due to becoming severely coated with pitch on the inside of the band) and then would not cut afterwards. Could this have happened due to the low hook angle, low set, or a combination of both?  Looking for opinions on the conditions and band I have described.  Customer has been happy with the other brands of bands I have sharpened for him and I just want to keep it that way. I know this is the place to find answers and look forward to feedback.  say_what

[barbender]

 I'd say the low set contributed more than the low hook angle. But I'd sharpenand set  them to match the ones that are working good.

[ladylake]

 I'd go with .28 set for pine. I use 4° blades for everything including pine.  Steve

[Bruno of NH]

I use Munkfors bands in frozen logs 
I don't think they offer a 4° band 
At least the 2 places I buy them from .

[esteadle]

My monkforsagers were 1 1/4 and came 8° and set to .025 for hardwood as I recall. I never cut pine with them though. I cut all my pine with Cooks saw blades.

Pitchy pine is also usually green. Fibers of green pine tend to be stringy and that drags on the band and slows it down. And sap that is sticky sticks to blades, and traps sawdust, and that builds up and can make it wander / dive. To solve that, I try to do everything to make the blade more slippery and more sharp and easier to get through the cut. I use plenty of lubricant. I use water and I might add a small amount of pine-sol (but not much since it gets airborne, and gets in my lungs and it kinda 'hurts' after a while).

For the blade, my experience leads me to set wide for cutting sticky sappy pine - .028 or even .032. That opens up the cut a bit more for the back / body of the blade, so it drags less and keeps the speed up.

Sharper edges helps to cut the fibers of wood better. Keep as sharp as possible, and use the debarkers to keep it clean and sharp. And change the blade often. I end up changing after 1 or 2 logs in many cases.

I agree that hook angle isn't much of a factor. Maybe as the blade dulls, you might prefer a steeper hook angle as that might help to ease the curve of the blade edge into the following fibers? I don't know. That seems a subject for academia ;-)

Best of luck,
Eric

[ladylake]

 I find 4° blades cut straighter longer than 10° blades. I have to buy most of mine at 10° but sharpener them to 4°.  Set is real important.  Steve