Petite and Pretty

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

I got this idea from another forum.
Some topics deserve to "cross over". Thanks to Mike Robbins for this idea.
What are your suggestions on sawing/resawing very thin stock?
Example: 3/8" thick cherry for box and clock makers.

I have cut 1/8" thick vertical grain heart yellow pine in craft sizes on my Hitachi resaw - the model which uses the 75mm. wide stellite tipped blade. (model escapes me). The wood had been locally cut, then air-dried for about four years.
Phil L.

[Tom]

I'm not sure if you mean "can we do it" or "do we do it"?

I have cut 3/8 and 1/8 or close to it with my bandsawmill.  It's not a job I care to do but will if ask.  The downside is that I charge for 1" when any product is less than an inch.  My blades will sometimes leave marks that are difficult to get out of something that thin too.  As smooth as bandsaws are touted to be,  they are not planers.

I cut some 3/8 oak boards that I stickered on 3/8 stickers in my pole barn, weighted them and waited on them and they turned out ok.  I had no market so i used them myself for paneling.

I have cut 1/8 stuff for kicks and stacked it alternating the wood with paper towel and not stickering it.  I weighted the whole stack and was surprised with how good it turned out.  Here again I had no market and no use for myself.  I don't remember what I ever did with it.

I've found 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 inch stock to be marketable but not the job for my saw.  This needs gang saws to make it profitable.

[timberbeast]

I've cut 1/2" for paneling,  and also for small projects like jewelry boxes,  etc.  I have some 1/4 and 1/8"  clear Cedar I figure I'll use to experiment on making model gliders from.
I don't see a market for it,  but it's fun to cut if I have some small logs I'm not going to sell for posts!  Also have cut some VERY wet stuff 1/4" and bent it round,  just to experiment with laminating.  Thanks for the swing-saw info,  by the way,  it was appreciated and informative,  but I might have to buy one now,  so I'm not sure if I should have asked!!! :D

[Don P]

 Interesting how about the only panelling available now is carsiding 3/4 t&g v groove. Yet when you do wainscoating 1/2" material would match up with 1/2" drywall making casing around openings easy. The old beadboard and bead and cove patterns were nice. Probably a piece of cake for something like a logosol. Good use for defected shorts too.

[Ron Wenrich]

I've seen some pretty thin stuff in at Lowe's.  I believe it is produced by Georgia  Pacific.  Eastern red cedar is usually 1/2 inch or a little less.  Good for closets and blanket chests.

I believe what they do is resaw kiln dried lumber, then T&G it.

There is also a 5/8" market.  It is used for drawer siding.  You can judge the quality of furniture by looking at the drawer sides.  Oak for high quality, beech for mid line, and plywood for lower quality.  Furniture stores hate to see me coming.   :D

[Tom]

Frank, I did that too.

I cut some black gum, 1/2"green,for a concrete contractor who used it to form serpantine sidewalks around a Dr.'s Clinic. It had to be backed substantially but he really like it.

I thought I had found a niche in the market and a customer all at once........but he died. :-/

[Frank_Pender]

Was the contractor the client of the Dr. clinic?  Or was the Dr. the one that passed on? :D :D

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Gee! :'(

I hope you haven't discovered a rare allergic reaction to Black Gum.  I know I really hate licorice.  (It is kind-o like black chewing gum.)
Phil L.
P.S.  Hey, I had to tune two pianos starting at 6:45 a.m., so don't complain about bad humor.  I shouldn't have any at all.
 ;D

[Don P]

Phil, I been meaning to ask, what is the right indoor RH range for a piano? My mom pointed out that 2 keys have cracked the ivories from swelling. She runs 3 gold rods under it now and said she tries to keep the house at 60%.

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Hello Don P
There is a company that makes humidity control systems for pianos.  Their humidistat controller is designed to cycle around the central point of 42% rel. humidity.

The rods you mentioned, if they are for de-humidification purposes, should have a humidistat controller on them.  If they don't they will run all the time.  When the air gets dry in the house, their added heat will lower the rel. humidity of the air near the piano to very low levels.  A humidistat for them would prevent them from operating, if the humidity drops below that 42% level.  (Dampp Chaser Model H-2 humidistat)

Pianos are like people in this area.  If your skin is dry and you have static cling,  it follows that the air is too dry and so will be your piano.  Of course, as you already know,  too much moisture would have been the cause of the swelling keys, not drying.

Here in the south (Georgia),  our air conditioners prevent high humidity in the summer, but it is the months when neither the heat nor the air is running, which raise indoor humidity levels.  An inexpensive meter from Radio Shack could help your mother watch her levels.
Phil L.

[Don P]

Thanks Phil,
There is a controller on the rods, but it sounds like they are fighting the humidifier. I'll let her know to turn it down. They've moved this year down to the SC mountains, right by a lake...

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

You're welcome, Don P

How in the world do these threads get so far off?
I guess we will all have to assume that your mother is, as my mother was . . .

PETITE AND PRETTY.

Phil L.

[Tom]

Well Phil, there is a Western singing group that has the saying....."That's the cowboy way" and I guess that you just have to accept that wandering threads are............."The Forestry Forum Way".. :D :D :D :D

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Hey Tom,
Ride 'em cowboy!
It's not just this forum.  Seems like I ride wherever the trail takes it anyway.

I have definitely decided that sawyers have more fun.
Phil L.