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Stihl 026 quits, hard to start

Started by Jim Davis, September 06, 2019, 09:51:39 PM

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Jim Davis

My 026 is a strong runner, but sometimes, it just quits and may not start again or 50 to 100 pulls. Set it aside in disgust, then pull it again 10  minutes later, and it MAY start on the first pull, or NOT.

I'm wondering if the off/run/half choke/choke control is grounding out.

Open to other lines of thought too. Today, my son and I used a sharp two-man human powered crosscut  to finish felling a big oak. I'm too old for that kind of thing and now I have this big pasture oak  to limb and remove....8-(

Jim

Al_Smith

Sounds like the ignition coil is failing after it heats up .A common problem  with solid state ignitions .It might be clogged up with chips impairing the air flow or it just plain got tired and needs replaced .
Years ago I had a McCulloch PM 610 that about drove me bonkers until I figured it out .Gave it a good blow down with compressed air and that cured it .

Jim Davis

I forgot one observation--when we tried to start it for the last hour or so, we noticed the switch kept snapping to the off position, which  of course would prevent starting. That lever just doesn't seem to operate as it should.

Al_Smith


Air Lad

Study the way the lever rolls and does it's off/on/choke functions. 
Sometimes the little flat spring can use a gentle bend to improve it's tension.
A tiny dab of grease can help it roll and click better also
Still might be the coil or something else but this can't hurt
Hope you figure it out as my 260c is the favourite allrounder

Tropical Sawyer

You could try just disconnecting the kill switch and seeing if the problem goes away. Obviously however you won't be able to turn the saw off easily which isn't particularly safe. It would be the easiest way to diagnose the problem though. Since it is an intermittent problem it may be difficult to determine why the lever isn't working properly.
Woodland Mills HM130, Stihl ms310 and ms660, Granberg chainsaw mill, 3 ton Kobelco excavator, 1 ton Chinese front-end loader.
New to sawmilling but have been chainsawing for a few years.

Jim Davis

Resurrecting this old thread because, first, I didn't thank you guys for your help, and because I didn't update the issue.

I did check the kill switch, and it seemed to be at fault. Got it working, but the saw is still hard to start. If I squirt some fuel in through the spark plug port, it will fire immediately, but quit when that fuel has burned. I have replaced the filter in the tank, but found no joy. Can't see any problems with the fuel line.

I also have an 020 AVP that is almost as hard to start, but always does.

I know it's hard to diagnose intermittent problems and almost impossible to do it remotely. So thanks for the help and any further suggestions.

Jim

Al_Smith

Often times a hard starter is just a carb rebuild which is inexpensive and easy to do .
A recent example I have is a pair Makita concrete saws that had sat a long time .Those did have bad fuel lines . By using the primer I could get them to run but not correctly .I disassembled the carbs and noticed the check valve assemblies, fuel pump diaphragms were stiff .Knowing from past experience that is does almost no good to just  "clean them out" I just ordered two new kits which I just haven't taken the time to install yet but I'd wager a good sum that will cure it .I think all told from flea bay those two kits cost me 12 dollars shipped from California via USPS .With the increase of mail traffic it took 12 days to get here which is to be expected this time of the year . 

Thomasjw4

you could also be the gas tank vent is clogged.  its happened to me a few times. 

moodnacreek

About half of my saws need to be primed unless you want to pull your arm off. Other than that they run good and will start easy the rest of the day. If only there was a kit to put a primer on them and you could eliminate the choke.

Al_Smith

Yes and no .The primer on a modern saw ,weed eater what ever only primes the carb by filling up the fuel  chamber .You usually still need a choke .
The old McCulloch flat backs like used on early saws one had a choke and one had an actual primer that shot fuel down the carb .They were both a pain in the back sides .
Usually on a cold start if a saw has sat a long time it takes 6 to 10 tugs on the rope to suck enough fuel up to the carb to get it to start .Not a problem if the saw has a decompression valve .If it's a large displacement saw with no decomp you'd better eat your Wheaties .Try 10 tugs on 99 cc of a Swedish hot rod Husqvarna 2100 .Those Swedes are descendants of raiders of the north sea Vikings, tough bunch but they aren't that tough .Mine by the way wears a D-handle my ace in the hole because any more I'm not that tough either . :)  

Real1shepherd

My point about the no decomp 2100 has always been you shouldn't have to pull the saw 10 times. If you're pulling that saw cold ten times, then you have an ignition/fuel/carb problem. It's a 3-4 pull saw, dead cold. And the over dozen or so I've bought professionally were always that way.

I can't speak for other 99cc+ saws, but I can for that one.

Kevin

Al_Smith

I used that reference just because it's a high compression hard to pull over saw .About a week mine surprised me because it had sat at least 5 or 6 years and it fired on 4 with no prime .My two partner p-100's start easy too but they are both fresh rebuilds .All three of those 99 cc saws have relatively large bore Tillotson model HS carbs .

DMcCoy

We had a similar issue at work traced it back to storing fuel in a cheap plastic gas can.
Worked great with fresh fuel from a metal can I brought in.

Real1shepherd

Bad fuel is one of the main reasons saws today won't start well and idle properly. I use only non-ethanol gas and I can let a saw sit for six months and then go on as normal. Longer than that and I pour it on the ground(sorry eco freaks).

Carbs that sit for long periods with ethanol gas are tragically corroded inside.....almost unbelievable to open one up and see. Depending on the metallurgy, they could be ruined. Go to YouTube and pull up the number of threads related to leaving ethanol gas in Honda generators for long periods of time. Look at the pics.

The 2100 carb is a Tilly HS, not HL.

Kevin

Al_Smith


Real1shepherd

Except the 's' key and the 'l' key aren't anywhere close to each other and there are Tilly HL carbs.....

Kevin

Al_Smith

Ahem look I know the difference between a Tilley HL and  HS models .I hit the wrong key simple as that .Just to show I'm a nice guy I'll edit it

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