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3D Printers

Started by firefighter ontheside, January 16, 2022, 10:14:53 PM

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firefighter ontheside

We got a little 3D printer at Christmas.  Does anyone have any suggestions for things that I should print to make my woodworking, sawmilling, chainsawing life easier or anything for that matter.  Can you point me to the file needed to print such things.  
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

btulloh

A 3d printer comes in pandora's box. lol  They can be fun and useful, but there's a learning curve for sure. I'm sure you'll be able to work your way through all that.

Have you found Thingiverse.com yet?  It's a repository of designs for 3d printers. There are others too.  I've found that most things on there need some tweaking but it's a good place to start. That's also a good way to get useful designs like temperature towers, etc., which you will need.  Eventually you're going to want to do your own designs though.

Are you using the Cura slicer?  Very powerful tool, but has a learning curve also.  

In the beginning you'll have to tweak things to get prints that are stable and strong in all planes. Another learning process.

I would guess you've at least printed some test prints. How's that working so far?

Back to your actual question now:  I've seen a lot of things for tool holders and organizers although I really haven't done any for myself. There was a ff member that posted a thread on a workbench he made which included a lot of nice tool holders. It was in the woodworking forum i think.

Good luck with your new tool/toy!
HM126

firefighter ontheside

Thanks and yes we have found Thingiverse.com I did some searching on there.  This has been more of a project for my wife.  She has spent a lot of time tweaking this thing.  We got a game called Catan for Christmas and she has been printing little containers that hold the game pieces and card holders.  They are kind of nice and take many hours to print.  It would be nice to design something for ourselves.  We downloaded the Creality slicer program I think.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

aigheadish

This seems like something @21incher would know about. Instructables.com likely has a lot of info too, for ideas or suggestions. 
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

firefighter ontheside

Thanks.  I found something on thingiverse that I decided to make.  I have seen people who make little drawers that slide into the end of their table saw fence rail.  They have been made many ways, but we are printing one.  Supposed to take a short 9 hours to print.  Yikes.  I think its about half done.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Ljohnsaw

The first things I made were improvements to my printer so it can handle the filament better and avoid snags.  The most useful was a wheel that pushed on the stepper that extends/retracts the filament.  That makes loading much easier.  Then drawers for the printer to store the odd bits (tips, wrenches, etc).  Then I made a lot of puzzles and toys.  One of the best is a human brain that has about 30 pieces for one half.  A real "brain teaser" to get that one together.  Some of the toys are articulated geckos and snakes.  They are very life-like when you handle them.  Doing all of that made me figure out just the right settings for various types of filament.  Bed heat, tip (extruder) temp, fan speed(s) and head speed are pretty critical as well as fill percent and type.  I made some parts to fix things that I had with cracked or broken parts.  I made a plug to close off a hose on my dust collector in my shop instead of using a gate.  If you are needing to make any tools or holders, you will need to use ABS, which I found to be the most difficult to get the exact settings.  Then PETG is pretty strong and adheres well to itself.  PLA is the best to use for items that don't need strength as it is very easy to use, just not strong.  I haven't done much in the past year.  I need to make a clear cover for the printer to keep drafts away.  Nothing worse than being 5 or 6 hours into a print and it goes haywire!   >:(
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Larry

In town we have a small makers space with a few machines.  They have a printer for the public to use if ya act nice.  I hung out there for a few hours one afternoon and watched some of the smart guys play with it.  Learned a lot.....enough to know I'm not interested in going down that road, at least for now. 

I think if I had one of those printers I would go back to the maker space and let them teach me all the tricks.  They were a friendly group.

 
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

21incher

They definitely are rabbit holes. I have had my best luck using pla. It doesn't outgas dangerous  fumes and if you design the parts right they will stand up for indoors use with  no uv exposure.   I find each brand of pla prints with different  settings so try several to find what works  best for your printer. Some of the cheap brands will have different  or varying  diameters that can cause extrusion problems.  I will print benchies over and over to work out the best settings for each type then put them in my notebook.  An area with constant temperature will give the best results.  I actually use one of my grow tents for 3d printing.  Store the pla filament in a dry box to keep it from absorbing moisture over time. Each printer will have different speeds, jerk, bed temperatures, extrusion percentage,  and many other settings  that will affect print quality.  If you use Facebook there are groups that may be useful for asking questions.  I use Cura for my slicer and it does contain good preliminary settings for most popular printers. I use a CR10s and Anycubic Chiron printer. The size of the Chiron makes it very slow due to the moving mass but it can do large prints and has a excellent build surface that doesn't need any type of adhesion added. My CR10 has a glass plate that needs stick glue for adhesion. A perfectly level bed will give the best results so spend the time needed if it's not auto leveling.  Plan on spending lots of time learning a 3d design program that will, let you design  your  own parts and tweak files you download. Search for a free design  program  that will fit your  needs and experience.  Filament is  expensive and prints take lots of time as you know by now so spend time working  out settings before attempting big complex prints. Printing the same part starting  on different surfaces will, results in varied part strength  so design is critical for lasting  parts. Thingiverse is a great  place for files to start but learning  to design your own parts is what makes having  a 3d printer worthwhile.  I designed and printed a bunch of tool and clamp mounts with  mine for fun. They look nice but took hundreds of hours to design, slice, and print along with a couple  hundred dollars worth of filament so it really  can turn into a rabbit  hole but it's a fun learning experience at the same time. Good luck.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

ScottCC

I build small timber frame and log cabins and enclosures.  The kid and I would like to get a 3-d printer.  Him for fun me for sales.  I would like to print designs to show structure to clients.  The size might be around 10"x10"x10".  Time to print not a big deal.  Sturdy enough to sit on a table to dream about.  Does anyone have recommendations for $1500 good printer or $2500 great printer.  I am very good at 2-d drafting in autocad and wish to just use autocad 3-d stuff if possible.

Thanks for any help and all these printing specs do make this scary.

I don't mean to redirect this post.  Sorry
Necessity is the mother of invention.  Poverty is its big brother.  WM mp100, WM eg100, WM sp4000 chip extractor,  WM 260 molder on order ,WM electric  lt15 wide with extra track, 71 Oliver allterrain forklift, 26' flat bed trailer, road legal log arch, homemade kiln, AutoCAD lt15

aigheadish

@ScottCC I wish I could hook people like you up with people like my stepdad (though I don't know if he's really interested). 

He makes incredible scale models of houses, complete with furniture, decorations, wallpaper and everything. They are like very elaborate doll houses minus the dolls and they are typically made of paper and cardboard. I've tried to tell him he needs to talk to home builders because I would guess he could build these models for the builders who could then give them to the customer and he could make a bucket of money on them. I'll have to get some pictures of his stuff...

Sorry to also derail the post!
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: ScottCC on January 19, 2022, 07:17:43 AMDoes anyone have recommendations for $1500 good printer or $2500 great printer.
I bought an Ender 3D printer and I think I only paid $250?  I'm pretty cheap frugal so I'm pretty sure I didn't spend $1,000 on it.  It has a pretty big bed and height.  You can check the specs on line but I think its about 8x8 and maybe 9" high that it can produce.  For something bigger, just chunk it down into part that fit together.  Printers can only go so fast, you have to let the filament cool enough to not sag but not too cool that the next pass won't stick.  The fastest head units are the one that DON'T have the stepper on the head.  When you reduce the head mass, you eliminate head over shoots due to inertia.  When laying filament, they do it at the perfect speed, but when repositioning (not extruding) you want FAST to cut down on the build time and not a lot of mass that would make the printer shake.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

firefighter ontheside

I think ours is an Ender 5 pro.  The dimensions John mentioned sound about right. I woke up at 1 am to go to the bathroom and noticed that the print was done.  I turned the machine off and went back to bed, well after the bathroom.  It seems to be working pretty well now, but I think Pro is an overstatement.  I assume my wife paid about $300 for it.

This little drawer turned out pretty cool.  I can't wait to put it into the rail of my saw.  Maybe now I won't lose my pencils all the time.


 
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

alan gage

QuoteMaybe now I won't lose my pencils all the time.

Ha! Good one! I have a nice place for my pencils but they're still never there. 

Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

firefighter ontheside

Well, at the very least, I will fill it up with pencils and I'll know where to find a pencil at least for a while.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

BtoVin83

On my homebuilt sawmill I built a rotary thickness scale and was making the discs out of thin aluminum. Then I got the idea to print them and have several in different thickness scales kerf compensated. I built a better work bench top for wood working and added bench dog holes and started looking around to buy some bench dogs and then it hit me Print Them! I have also printed fixtures for sharpening plane blades both block and jack plane and printed fixtures to sharpen chisel blades. The cool thing is that if you can imagine it you can usually print it. I have been tinkering with the idea to print the parts for a band sharpening gizmo.

btulloh

BtoVin, what material are you using?  The items you're printing require strength and good adhesion. I haven't gotten beyond PLA yet and it certainly doesn't want to hold up well in all planes. I really need to add a heated enclosure but I haven't had much time to spend in the 3d rabbit hole.

FFOTS, you're getting good results for so early in your 3d career. I'm impressed. 
HM126

firefighter ontheside

 Honestly @btulloh it's really my wife who has put in all the work.  She has done a lot of research and asking questions on forums to learn more.  This little drawer print apparently was too big to print with it lying down, so they arranged it to print standing up on the front.  I couldn't imagine how it was going to then bridge the gap as it printed the back end of the drawer.  It did it somehow, but the inside area is very stringy as it started to bridge that gap.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

BtoVin83

So far I have only used PLA, a spool of PLA Tough and I have a spool of PLA+ that I haven't used yet. I got the printer to print TPU for obsolete motorcycle carb boots but haven't got there yet. I find the PLA to be quite strong myself but then again I haven't made any significant structural items that require a lot of strength.

BtoVin83

I need a new router plate for my router table and scheming on printing it, we'll see how it turns out.

21incher

This is my pencil holder. It's also a push stick holder. Being on top it's easy to remember to put them back. Would be easy to 3d print but for $6.99 it was cheaper to buy


 

This is one thing that I recommend to add to a fence. It's a plexiglass shelf to support a miter gauge or sled. I can cut 24 inch panels on my sled safely with this. I added a 4 ft pull out stop to the hollow tube also. 


 

 

From my experience PLA does not do good in UV from sunlight but with proper settings it can be fairly strong. I definitely am going to get a printer for TPU someday with the extruder on the hot end. 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

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