Chain preference on a 550XP

[DHansen]

I am running a Semi Chissel .325 pitch .050" 66 DL SP33G X-Cut (16" Bar) Using the X-Cut file guide and 3/16" file.   What are others running on their 550 XP's and are there any better options?  

[Spike60]

That narrow kerf chain is smooth and quick; a nice combo. I usually run 21LGX on my 50cc saws. The better ones get an 8 pin rim. 

Understand that I am posting the following comment with quite a smirk on my face: All the guys who are gonna jump in here and say you should run 3/8 chain on 50cc saws are wrong. And they're probably no good at sharpening .325 chain either.  :D

That oughta get a few people worked up, huh? 

[DHansen]

Thanks Spike, I'll work on my .325 sharpening skills.  I run .325 on a Husqvarna 45 also.  But not x-cut.  The 45 is another good saw.

[sawguy21]

 :D For the amount of cutting I have done, just a weekend warrior, I really liked the narrow kerf on 50-55 cc saws. Smooth with minimal waste and no harder to sharpen.

[DHansen]

What difference is there between the X-Cut and non-X-cut chainsaw chain/cutters?

[barbender]

I've always thought the narrow kerf .325 chain cut awesome 👍

[SkeeterKev]

Stihl 23RSPro-Narrow kerf 325 full chisel.  I used to run Oregon 325LPX. 
This is the best.  I cut clean Maple mostly.
I get 25 foot rolls and spin it to 66DL.
I use this 5 nose rivet bar now from Husky.  It has been working good for bore cuts.


 



 

[barbender]

I don't think the Oregon LPX is a narrow kerf...I think the nk used to be called 95VP but they changed it to something else. That was good cutting chain, I haven't used the Stihl narrow kerf stuff.

[Spike60]

Yes, the new stuff is called 95TXL. It is different, not just a name change. Comes out of the box with a "multi radius grind". The Husky SP33G that Dave mentioned is Husky's own chain from Sweden. Not simply Oregon chain in a Husky box. 

The LPX is not narrow kerf as you say. For whatever reason, neither of the NK chains are available in .058. Most of my .325 saws have .058 bars, so that's what I'll be sticking with. But the NK chain does cut nice. Guys just have to get past the fact that it's not full chisel and give it a try. 

[DHansen]

If I have this correct, I can run .325 .050 not narrow kerf chain on a narrow kerf bar of the same .325 .050 but can't run narrow kerf chain on a non-narrow kerf bar, due to bar binding in the cut.  And if I understand correctly the narrow kerf idea is removing less wood from the cut.  So less drag on the engine.  So, running non narrow kerf chain could slow down the saw in a heavy cut.

[Spike60]

That can go either way, and this is where it gets confusing. I've found that standard kerf chain on a narrow kerf bar can bind up at the side cover on some saws. 242xp for instance. The NK bar allows the side cover to clamp down on the chain. But only on certain bars as all bar tails are not identical between brands. It's crazy, and there's really no rule of thumb that can possibly cover all of the variations. Every now and then you just run into something that ain't gonna work. 

And that's part of the reason some guys don't like .325. There are so many different .325 chains out there. They don't even all take the same file. 3/16, 5/32, 11/64. We'd see all different stuff come in for sharpening. (They all got 3/16 regardless) But an individual user is unlikely to run into that many variations unless buying unknown chains on sale online or what not. 

[SkeeterKev]

The first narrow kerf 325 chain was Oregon 95VPX (rebranded for Husky as H30)
Husky called the system Pixel.  This is what I received on my 346xp in 2012.
Oregon called it Micro-Lite 325 (they referred to it by calling it a 'lean mean cutting team'

The current narrow kerf 325 chain by Oregon is called 95TXL (Speedcut).  Instead of continuing to use this chain Husky came out with SP33G.  Both are bumper link semi-chisel.  One is likely as good as the other.

You can run any of the current NK 325 chains on your 550 with a NK bar.  I prefer the new Stihl 325 NK chain 23RSPro to any of the above as it is non bumper link, full chisel.  

You can run a standard kerf chain like Oregon 20LPX (rebranded H23)(50ga) on a NK bar but the rails will roll over due to the wide chain running on a narrow bar (done it)

Oregon now makes 325 21LGX full chisel non bumper link chain for use on standard kerf 58 ga Husky bars.  

Yes it can be confusing...

[DHansen]

Understood and thank you for the excellent replies.  I have 20LPX on it now.  I was running SP33G over the weekend.  Picking up some 23RS today.

Seems each manufacturer had to put their own term/name for their version of Narrow Kerf.  

I'll keep learning and taking notes.  

[SkeeterKev]

23RS is standard kerf
23RSPro or sometimes called 23RSP is narrow kerf.

Stihl dealers will carry 67,68,74DL,...loops.  If I wanted 66DL I used to have the dealer remove drive links.  They sometimes did not do the best job.  Once they used a standard pre set and strap - this created a wide spot on the chain.  There are special presets and tie straps for this NK chain.

Now I just spin it myself, and at lower cost to boot!
If you purchase a 25 foot (460DL) roll it will come with a little bag of the proper tie straps and presets.
FYI in Canada the price for a roll is $161.  That works out to about $120 US.

[Spike60]

Makes sense. Husky and Stihl dealers are not the best places to buy chain for each other's saws, and I was one of them.    

And in .325, it seemed like most of the Stihls were running .063 around here. I brought in 68 and 74 dl loops, but that was it. Even after the guy down the road closed, there were still several Stihl dealers in the market. Best to go to them. 

[sawguy21]

It is interesting. I have never seen .063 except in .404 that was supplied on the big Stihls and this is logging country. .050 (and .058 for da Svedes) are much more common. We actually gave our 22LP away to free up warehouse space.
As a side note the branch manager decided he wanted us to push our slow moving .404 in Alberta, he knew little about that side of the business. I pointed out there is little market in the prairies for the big saws, it is all level ground and tree length fence posts. Ironically 18H, .404X.080 harvester chain, was our big mover.

[DHansen]

I can find 23RSP, but being told 23RS is discontinued.  Still checking on the accuracy of the 23RS being discontinued.  I did pick up the 23RSP and will see what I think on the 550xp.

I also have two new Husqvarna 18" bars in .325 .058" NK.  Will need to think on what saw to run those on.

[DHansen]

Baileys has 23RS in stock, so it says on the web site.  The .325 .050" I was looking for.  Solid information from SkeeterKev.  I think some of the Stihl dealers want to sell what they have on the selves, and its not the 23RS or the 23RSP.  

[barbender]

All I know for sure- if I ever had a position of power to be able to do it, there would only be one gauge for each chain pitch😁

[DHansen]

Reminds be of bullet caliber and weight configurations.  All the time we waste to get our gear 6 ounces lighter, or bullet 200 ft. per sec faster, or truck get 1/2 MPG better.    If it cuts good and throws the wood chips we like, then good enough is good enough.  

But I was the one who asked the question.  Still going to try the Stihl 23RSP and see what I think.  It worth the try.

[SkeeterKev]

In Canada Stihl used to supply 23RS chain on their MS261, MS250 and others because all there 325 bars here are 50ga.  When they brought out their narrow kerf version 23RSPro it was a simple running change for the dealers to simply stock the new narrow kerf chain and phase out the old.  Now saws like the 261 come with the new narrow kerf chain.

In the US 325 bars are 63 gauge as far as I know, therefore a running change was not so easy - you needed a new bar.

23RS has a 63ga drive link ground down to 50ga at the bottom of the drive link.  23RSPro or 23RSP has a straight drive link that is 50 ga. top to bottom.  Why the different bars in Canada vs US who knows!

Anyhow you should like the new 'Pro' version.  I use the same SP33G guide you are using now on the Stihl Pro chain, but I have to build up the rollers a bit with electrical tape or you end up with too much hook.

The bottom chain in the photo is the 23RSPro compared with 63PS



 

[barbender]

Yes that's a good comparison. For all of the, I don't know, hundreds of rifle hunting calibers we have, there really isn't much difference between the vast majority of them. How many people will ever (or should) attempt to take game beyond 400 yards? You could shoot a 30/06 and pretend none of the other cartridges of the last 100 years ever appeared, and you'd be at no real disadvantage.

[DHansen]

I appreciate all the good information.  I have .325 pitch bars in .050" and .058" gauge.  But no .063". Looking forward to trying the 23RSP.

Barbender, caliber of choice for me is 44-40.   Been working since 1873, they must of gotten something right.   Second and third are 32-20 and 38-55. I like old school.

[Old saw fixer]

Stihl corporate is a strange duck when it comes to marketing, at least in the Midatlantic territory.  Any .325 chain I have seen .063 gauge whether it's sold on an MS250 or an MS261.  Those two saws use different bars with a different driver count in the same bar lengths.  I don't even know if Stihl Midatlantic has .325 available yet.  I gave up trying to get some. 
I agree with Spike60, a 50cc saw works better with .325 chain.  At least a stock 50cc saw does.  I have a 462 or an 036 Pro if I need a longer bar or bigger saw.

[ButchC]

Carlton K1 L is on my 550 and every other 50CC saw I own. Have never seen a reason to look at anything else.