My chainsaw doesn't cut straight

[idaho04]

After about 30 hours sawing my chainsaw (Husky 55 Rancher w 20" solid bar) will cut in an arch to the left. I checked the bar and have it reground but it won't help until I install new chain. Is this normal? How would I avoid it? How long do chains last?

[Furby]

Yep, normal if you are running a dull chain and/or one that was sharpened wrong.
Folks that sharpen by hand tend to sharpen one side of the chain more then another due to being right or left handed.
I've also seen chains that were brend new at the start of the day, cutting cut circles by the end of the day due to someone hitting dirt/sand/rocks or pushing the chain way longer then they should have.

A light sharpening by hand at every fill up is a really good method to follow.

[simonmeridew]

You hit a rock which dulled the cutter points on one side of the chain. Take a close look at the cutting points and compare them; on one side of the chain the edges will be shiny and or dubbed over a little(or a lot). You need to sharpen each cutter until the white line on each cutter edge(and especially the points), till the white line disappears. It may not be all the cutters on the affected side are dull, it could be only a couple of them but that's enough to cut in circles. Look for the white line and learn to hate it.
simonmeridew

[limbrat]

A chain can last for weeks or years depending on use but just like a knife it needs to be sharpened. Dont wait untill it starts pulling one way or the other to sharpen it like Furby said when you fuel up is a good time to give the chain some attention. Get a file the correct size and give each tooth a couple of strokes at each fuel up. On the inside of the tooth there is a groove that comes out at the top corner of the chain. Put the file in the groove and before stroking look down at the tooth from the top corner with the file in place. The file should fill up the inside of the tooth and touch all the outside edges and corners at the same time. Give the tooth three strokes with the file dont try to force the file of cut the tooth you just wont to polish the inside of the tooth. look at the inside of the tooth if all the faces are shiney and the outside edges are sharp you have sharpened that tooth to factory spec move on to the next tooth.

If the chain is damaged like it would be if its cutting arcs take the chain to a saw shop to get the chain sharpened. The method i described above will work very well for maintaining a chain but you will need more experance before you can straighten one out by hand. If it feel awkward at first that normal it usally takes eight or ten sharpenings before it feels right. Dont let no one tell you it is tougher that it is because it is just pushing a file through a groove. Thats it, you dont need to know angles or pitches or nothing else all you gotta do is follow a groove with a file and stop when its sharp. And try not to cut anymore dirt ok:)

[thecfarm]

We was just talking about filing a chainsaw.

filing a chainsaw

A search will bring up more,but this should give you some good infro.

[idaho04]

Thanks for all your info. I do hand sharpen every tankfull. I thought I do a decent job filing. I also read the mentioned post. I was also wondering why my bar is flaired up a little where the chain sits on the bottom of the bar. About ya ear ago I switched to a professional solid bar, I thought it would get better.

[Dan_Shade]

how tight do you tension your chain?

[beenthere]

Idaho04

Take a 10X hand lens and look close at the teeth you've sharpened. See if the edge is really there. You are giving clues that would lead one to think they are not sharp. I've had that experience, and the closer look was very revealing.  

Bottom line, if sharpened at the right angles, and if sharp.....it will cut straight.  Also, bars will wear faster if the teeth are not sharp and one has to force the saw into the wood.
Sharp teeth, don't require forcing the bar....keep the rpm up and the saw bar just drops through the wood.

[olyman]

very good info--one of the reasons a bar will flare on the sides--not enough oil out of the oiler--or the chain dull--your pushing down to get it thru--and puts waaay more pressure on bar----which a full on oiler wont cure--also--as said--shorter and longer cutters will drive in a curve---if i hit something with  the chain--i stop and sharpen immed---as ive already knocked the sharp off--and  take the same amount of strokes off both sides--even though a few of the damaged cutters wont be quite right---theyll true the next sharpening--a true sharp chain requires almost no down pressure to cut--

[Dale Hatfield]

Seams to me that some other instructors were playing around while we were in arky land.  They were doing some very Technical testing. One was dulling a chain . Taking a flat file to one side of the chain. without others knowing. End result a curved cut. The cut was to the sharp side.
I have found the tooth length doesnt matter as much as correct and matched angles. With the depth guage filed to match tooth length.
Dale

[tree dude]

You said that you went with a sollid bar,do you mean you have one without a sprocket in the tip?If so I say switch back the ones with the sprockets in the tip cause less resistance and run smoother. If you dont want to do that, turn the bar over occasionaly, the metal to metal friction will wear a bar and make it cut wrong, especialy if you accidently hit the dirt once in a while.I also would rcomend cleaning the bar fairly frequently. 8)

[Dan_Shade]

I think he meant solid bar with the chain groove machined into it instead of a laminate bar. 

[Warbird]

I just had the "cutting circles" problem today.  Was cutting through a 16 - 17" spruce and all of a sudden heard that sickening sound of chain on metal.  Rolled the log and saw a *huge* rusty nail sticking out of the trunk...  nice and shiny from where I'd cut into it.  I tried a couple more cuts just to see how bad it was and got the circle cuts.   >:(

So.  I just spent half an hour sharpening my chain.  Cuts like a dream again.   ;D

[carver45]

I have had this happen as well. It is more than likely the sharpening. But an old logger told me that you should turn your bar over every once in awhile. I could give you a bunch of theories why but I do not know the answer. All I know was that he was right. I had a chainsaw cutting sideways and everything was right, So I turned the bar upside down, out of desperation, and wammo it worked.

[sawguy21]

The bar rails will wear just in front of the powerhead because that is where most of the cutting is done. The process is accelerated by forcing a dull chain. Bar life can be extended by
1. keeping the chain sharp and
2. flipping the bar over each time the chain is changed to equalize wear on both sides.

[Big Daddy]

Hello
I only cut firewood and a tree here and there. My 55 Rancher would pull left, Anyway I started touch up filing at every fill up. Same amount of strokes each side, 5. At the end of the day after cleanup I flip the bar...

[timberjack240]

like my pap says shes butter dishin... i personally hate that but it could be a number of thing s that were previously mentioned good lcuk