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I removed my carb limiter tabs!

Started by RSteiner, March 08, 2010, 06:39:06 AM

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RSteiner

After hearing all the good reasons and none of the bad reasons to remove the limiter tabs on my Dolmar 5100S.  I did it.

The only question I have now is, how do I know if the adjustment I made is going to make a difference so that the saw is not running too lean?  I gave the high speed adjustment screw a full turn more open.  I must say that the saw seemed to be very happy with that adjustment.  ;D 

The saw seemed to run cooler and had more power when cutting with the full 16" 3/8 pitch chain burried in an ash tree I cut down this weekend.  Now I wish I had done this sooner.

Randy
Randy

Kevin

Quotehow do I know if the adjustment I made is going to make a difference so that the saw is not running too lean?

Randy, you can put a tachometer on it.


HolmenTree

I remember back in the day [1970s] when saw carbs were bolted solidly to the cylinder, if you made a living with a saw back then you had to carry a carb screwdriver in your pocket. Everyday you could practice setting your carb. from those darn screws always vibrating out :D
Now these modern day Husky 576 AutoTunes have no screws to play with, and the way its computer tunes itself, I couldn't tune it any better or faster :o.
Willard.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

RSteiner

Quote from: Rocky_J on March 08, 2010, 07:23:20 AM
Read this page-
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

Thanks Rocky_J  I read the article.  I do know how to adjust the low speed or idle setting it is the high speed setting that was a concern.  Years ago I assisted Soren Ericson as he demonstrated how to adjust the carb of a chainsaw at one of his seminars, I held the saw on a stump and held the throttle wide open as he used a tach to adjust the high speed setting.

I think it is time to invest in a tach.  Any suggestions on one that will work and not break the bank?

Randy
Randy

ladylake

1 turn out (thats quite a bit)  and it pulls better , it's good you did this sooner rather than after it burnt up from being set to EPA specs. If you do get a tack the EPA spec RPM's are around 14300, I'd set them around 13800 to be safe and as you already found out these saws most time cut faster and have a wider powerband with more fuel.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

RSteiner

Thanks Steve.

About 12 years ago when I bought my first Husky, a 257 which I still have and it runs great, the saw tech set the carb a bit rich and told me to run the saw for about 10 fuelings and bring it back for an adjustment.  When he readjusted the carb he told me that he set the RPM's about 500 RPM lower than what the book said to keep it from running too lean. 

Since then any new saw I bought I asked to have the same adjustments made.  Both the 257 and 272xp Husky's I have are still running good with 12 years of service.  I firuge each saw has around 1200 hours of use.

When I asked to have the Dolmar 5100S set the same way I was told that they could not change the factory settings.  What bothers me is that the EPA mandate cause manufacturers to sell a product that is set up to fail. 

Randy
Randy

HolmenTree

Your partly right there Randy.
I got 3 brand new Husky 576 AutoTunes which had to be run hard in a big log for the first 5 minutes right out of the box. What this does is resets the computer from the lean factory EPA settings.
This hard first running doesn't appear to hurt the saws. They run perfect. Long term running? I'm not worried I got 3 of them. :D
Willard.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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