how do i read this hydraulic plate info

DDW_OR · December 20, 2016, 05:23:00 PM

engine oil also had water in it.
i think that is what brown colored oil or caramel colored oil

now the only fluid i have not changed is the bar oil. not going to do it.

removed C and D from flow control. the inside of C and D had rust. :( >:(

DDW_OR · December 20, 2016, 05:54:12 PM

purchased the 1610ez used on 10/3/2013 in Wisconsin. changed engine oil and filter and hydraulic filter. then cut 8 to 10 cords before the end of 2013.

2015 cut most of one cord before problems started.

2016, fixing problems.

DDW_OR · December 23, 2016, 02:15:12 AM

drained engine oil, added engine flush and 1 qrt fresh oil, ran engine for 5 min. drained and replaced filter. added new oil. ran 5 min. let stand 1 min, checked level. now at full mark and clean.

Hydraulic
removed speed control part #2. used a JIC to JIC elbow to connect hose B to D, live deck and conveyor operated normally. normal sound
Connected hose B to C
Log Feed - operated correctly, with squealing noise
Clamp - operated correctly, with squealing noise
Wedge - operated correctly , with squealing noise
Splitter - operated correctly forward, VERY slow in reverse, Fluid leaking at cylinder, with squealing noise
Saw - spun correctly, did not lower to cut, acted like it would raise if it had lowered., with squealing noise

North River Energy · December 23, 2016, 07:21:13 AM

If the splitter ram is retracting very slowly, and leaking from around the rod seal, then you may have a bad piston seal.
You won't hear squealing from the live deck and conveyor because those motors are turning without any load.
The squeal from the other functions might be related to sending full pump flow through a circuit that only wants to see a portion of that in normal use.

I'd take a look at the splitter ram internals next. You need to replace the rod seal anyway.

Hilltop366 · December 23, 2016, 08:59:01 AM

To me it looks like you have isolated the problem to the "c" side of things, according to your drawings and description of the results everything that works with a squealing sound is connected to the "L" return. I'm thinking there is a restriction in the return side, first guess would be stuck valve that is common to all functions #6.

DDW_OR · December 23, 2016, 12:42:03 PM

today the weather is wet, cold and miserable, so i am staying inside.

In the photo the fluid flow is from right to left.

i see three plans of attack. will post each plan separately and see which plan gets the most clicks on the "like" button.

plan one: is to take the entire machine to Phoenix Hydraulic and have them fix it.
I do not have the tools, nor the skills, to fix cylinders.

DDW_OR · December 23, 2016, 12:43:03 PM

plan two: remove the parts, then take the parts for repair

DDW_OR · December 23, 2016, 12:44:02 PM

plan three: try to do the repairs myself. may take a month of running back and forth.

Hilltop366 · December 23, 2016, 12:54:11 PM

Can you tell where the squealing sound is coming from?

North River Energy · December 23, 2016, 04:07:29 PM

Quotetake the leaking cylinder to Phoenix Hydraulic and have them fix it

From the sound of things, you probably have two problems that just happened to coincide.
1, Contaminated/stuck flow control
2 splitter ram internal bypass

As mentioned previously, the squealing is probably the main system relief dumping excess fluid. In order to exceed the relief value, you need to 'overload' a circuit, and I don't think that will happen if the return line is somehow obstructed.
Just for giggles, you might try reversing the lines to the splitter ram. If it's still slow to retract, then you can probably rule out the valve in favor of the cylinder.

DDW_OR · December 25, 2016, 12:56:21 AM

Quote from: DDW_OR on December 23, 2016, 12:42:03 PM
......will post each plan separately and see which plan gets the most clicks on the "like" button.....

I have learned i cannot see how many "likes" each idea got. so could someone please post how many each idea got.

DMcCoy · December 25, 2016, 07:42:11 AM

Quote from: North River Energy on December 23, 2016, 04:07:29 PM
Quotetake the leaking cylinder to Phoenix Hydraulic and have them fix it

From the sound of things, you probably have two problems that just happened to coincide.
1, Contaminated/stuck flow control
2 splitter ram internal bypass

As mentioned previously, the squealing is probably the main system relief dumping excess fluid. In order to exceed the relief value, you need to 'overload' a circuit, and I don't think that will happen if the return line is somehow obstructed.
Just for giggles, you might try reversing the lines to the splitter ram. If it's still slow to retract, then you can probably rule out the valve in favor of the cylinder.

x2

The rust you mention finding seems to coincide with that area that is malfunctioning. I would want to know how that got there->where it came from. If it came from the tank I would clean or replace the tank so you don't do this all over again. There are in tank suction screens available. I would want to make sure I am fixing the problem not just the symptoms.

DDW_OR · December 29, 2016, 07:47:52 PM

Finally contacted Multitek.
they said to check the diverter ( 9 ) on the saw control section

Al_Smith · December 30, 2016, 07:16:49 AM

Wow that thing looks like plumbers nightmare .In spite of that what usually happens no matter what the system is it will be a mechanical failure of some kind

Meaning it could be stuck valve,broken spring ,even a piece of gunk that got circulated through the system and lodged under a pressure relief valve .It really doesn't take much.

With all the valves in a neutral position you should have full flow through the return line which for all intents will not show any pressure. If you could break into the return line so you could watch the flow and with the engine at idle by operating the various valves it should lead you to the blockage or bypassing condition .

Assuming that is a portion of the system is in fact working .Start from that point down stream from the last known point and work from there .

I think were it myself the first thing I would do is check every relief valve first .It's not a big deal .You just unscrew the relief spring and check for junk or a bad seal .Just don't loose the parts .Count the turns when you unscrew and put the same amount back in when rescrew it .( I coined a word,rescrew ) :D

Don't abandon ship it's gotta be there some place . I might add if you have the model and make of those valves most times if you do a Google you can find the specs and working drawings on same .Surplus center hydraulics is very helpful .

Al_Smith · December 30, 2016, 07:35:03 AM

Further rambling on,directional valves.Most of them are a spool type valve that shift the flow in one direction or another .Between the "stage'"of the spools are seals of some kind which depending design could be o-rings or some variation of same,might have backers,square ,just depends .If one of those seals blows out the valve will bypass to the relief line .Pretty easy to tell from operating the valve and watching the return flow .If operated and the flow doesn't slow down that's where it's at .

It's probably a very good machine but by looking at the pictures is most likely a monumental pain in the neck to work on .10 pounds of potatoes in a 5 pound sack.

DDW_OR · January 26, 2017, 02:33:34 PM

I took the splitter ram to be repaired, now does not leak.
still slow return.

moved the FV-8460 up to be with the other controls. put it to the left of the flow control #2.
adjusting the flow control so the D line side works correctly makes the C line side stop working. same is true if i do it the other way.
the Flow control has one input and two outputs, one of the outputs is labeled CF.
is CF for Constant flow or Controlled flow. i think Constant flow.

i am going to take lines C and D and swap them and see what happens.

Quote from: Al_Smith on December 30, 2016, 07:16:49 AM
With all the valves in a neutral position you should have full flow through the return line which for all intents will not show any pressure. If you could break into the return line so you could watch the flow and with the engine at idle by operating the various valves it should lead you to the blockage or bypassing condition .

"break into the return line", i assume it is where line L joins with line N and have line L drain into a Clean bucket so the fluid can later be put back into the Hydraulic tank.
maybe have line L drain through a metal kitchen strainer?

DDW_OR · January 27, 2017, 02:00:31 PM

Everything "seems" to be working
swapping lines C and D did nothing so i put them back to original positions.
did not break into the return line.
will be re-assembling today and cutting some firewood to see how it works.

will add a second speed control to give lines C and D their own speed control.

wish i knew more about hydraulic controls.
i would like to move lines I J K over to O P
have E and H direct from pump and I J K O P supplied by the flow control.
looking at the valve blocks it looks like it could be done.

TroyF21 · January 27, 2017, 04:09:33 PM

It sounds like you have a piece of something such as a piece of hydraulic hose an o ring or rubber stuck in the pump if it will only run for a short time .

DDW_OR · January 27, 2017, 07:04:35 PM

well i cut up a few 12 foot logs and everything is working.

thank you for all of the help

will be doing the following modifications:
remote throttle control
measure device for last piece of log.
retainer spring for bar that supports last piece of log

support bar extended