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Adding a In floor heat run to a furnace exchanger seteup

Started by Arctiva, September 26, 2019, 10:14:29 PM

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Arctiva

So last year I installed a outdoor wood boiler and a water to air exchanger to the furnace. Quick and cheap all DYI, I'm redoing a porch and making it a foyer with a new concrete slab and am going to put tubing in for heat. 

I'm wondering how I'd control the heat in the foyer? I'm assuming I cant just circulate 180 degree water 24-7 like I do to the exchanger?

The foyer will be 11x15. So 300 feet or so of 1/2 tubing with 8" spacing and another 30 feet across crawl space to get there. 

Could i do a manifold on the supply and return side and use a separate thermostat to control a zone valve to only allow water to circulate when heat it called for in that in floor loop? But allow the water to circulate 24-7 to the furnace exchanger? Would I need a zone valve on the return side also then? 

Then I wonder if I'd need another pump? Maybe a small 1 for the infloor loop or another on the return side to push back to boiler. I'm 125' 1 way from boiler. 

Southside

Ummm - no.  You can't push 180 degree water through your slab, you will need a mixing valve and want to keep it in the 95 degree range.  So you will need a separate zone for that.  You could have a manifold that feeds the zone valve bank - one to the water to air, and the other to the mixing valve, when the foyer calls for heat the valve opens and it feeds the slab.  I had a similar set up and had the main pump loop from the boiler to the manifold, then smaller pumps for the zones.  No need for a zone on the return side, just use a check valve.  
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E Yoder

After flow goes through the hot air coil put two close tees for a supply and return. Use another small pump (I like Grundfos 15-58) pulling through a mixing valve turned down to about 95 (as was mentioned). A thermostat in that room starts and stops that pump.
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Following

i will be doing something like this for my greenhouse
using a Central boiler 750
dig a 4 foot deep pit, install cement blocks, line it with insulation, add a Pex loop, then fill with dirt.
then put greenhouse on top of the cement blocks
yellow = insulation
red = Pex


 
"let the machines do the work"

Arctiva


Is 95 degree the right water temp then for Infloor heat setup?




Arctiva

Would you put the pump before or after the mixing valve? 
I assume after, mixing valve opens pump pushes water, valve turns off pump stops, check valve keeps water in the zone. 

That setup sounds the easiest for a crawl space setup like I have.

My thought was to run a 2" PVC with a long sweep 90 across my crawl space stubbed out to the slab and run my 1/2" supply and return through it foam the end where the concrete will be. Then I dont have exposed lines in a cool space and dont have to have exposed pipes in the foyer.

doc henderson

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

is this indoors insulated room, or outdoor slab?  the circulate 24/7 makes me wonder,  great idea if energy is free.  but lots of losses.  24/7 is usually so the lines do not freeze.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

hedgerow

I have my floor heat set up on a heat exchanger that runs off my Garn on the floor side its closed system with a pump, antifreeze and bladder tank and a thermostat to turn that pump on and off. You could came out of your water to air heat exchanger to a water to water exchanger and then back to the OWB and it sounds like you leave that pump going all the time. I wouldn't run the OWB water threw the pex in your floor. 

Arctiva

It will be a foyer so insulated and "inside". 

I think after researching and some comments here I have a good understanding of how to get it done. 

Still a little unsure of the mixing valve setup, all most seems like youd want the mixing valve tied into the pump/thermostat. You wouldn't wanna mix the water when the pump isnt running

Arctiva

I dont run antifreeze, I run the main pump 24-7. I want a nice warm floor and the heat to help radiate out to the 2 other rooms that will be connected to the foyer. I considered a wall radiator, or running a duct through the concrete of the existing system but a nice warm floor it the way to go. 

I did a electric heated tile floor in my last house and OMG the nice toasty floor and warmer rooms around it were a nice upgrade. But why do electric when I have a boiler and free wood

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