I used to dread a pile of small dry logs (Peterson Mill)

[Nate Surveyor]

Because they are hard to hold down, and you have to go slower, to keep the log from shifting.

Not any more!
You can see, they are pretty light!

I drove a 40d nail (with head cut off) down in the notch in the bunker. The top of the nail is 1/4" inch BELOW the top of the bunker. I think 1/8" would work, but I wanted to be sure NOT to hit the nail with the blade. This allows me to cut RIGHT down to the bunker, and the cut material does NOT fall into the notch on the last cut! I can quickly cut a log that is 8 ft long, 5" dia at the small end, 6" dia at the big end, and get either 2 2x4's or 1 4x4 out of it. If it is crooked, it can have a little wane on it.



To use this system, you have to center the end of the log on the notch, and then HIT the top of the log with a big mallet, or hammer. I have a chunk of metal that weighs about 15 pounds. This sinks the log onto the headless nail. The edges of the notches then support the sides.

This has worked so well, that I am amazed! My cutting speed is UP, as you do not have to slow down NEAR as much as usual when cutting the last cut. I cut out 38 2x4's x 8 this morning, out of some small dry logs. I actually have wane on the BOTTOM of the last board!

I don't like to waste wood!

I hope this helps someone else.

Nate

[crtreedude]

That is pretty neat. Because we are a plantation, we will have plenty of those smaller logs that normally people don't like to handle. Tops too. There is a lot of wood left that is not processed that could be. Since we have our own wood shop, we can use just about anything.

[Nate Surveyor]

I sometimes have to set my foot on the bunker, and JERK the carcass of the log up, to remove the last waste portion.

It holds well.

N

[DanG]

By George, that's a capital idea! 8) 8)  A lot of people are coming out with complex, expensive, and cumbersome paraphenalia to accomplish the same thing you did for virtually free.  I like it!! ;)

[Firebass]

Good One ;D  At first when I saw your pictures it looked like you had room for two logs side by side.  but I see its not.  I have considered setting up multiple logs with my mill but I haven't really perceived the advantage yet with a swinger.   Maybe on the smaller ones it would work OK.  I am amazed really how little it takes to hold a log while sawing.  When I first made my log dogs I was under the impression they had to be sunk to the hilt with a cheater bar.  Now I just barely toggle them.  It was one of my worst fears while building my mill because I really had no idea of the stress the blade would cause.   That's the main reason I built the dogging log bunk.  Hind sight: I think I will make a set of tracks that are easy to move and use blocks like you show if I want to make my mill easily portable.  But for a stationary mill the dogging bunk work great.

Steve

[customsawyer]

I like to see a plan come together. ;D

[brdmkr]

Firebass said "I have considered setting up multiple logs with my mill but I haven't really perceived the advantage yet with a swinger."


Cutting multiple logs at one time does save a little time as the saw carriage cuts 2 logs before being further adjusted.  Time savings would likely be greater with Lucas and ATS mills as you also could also load two logs under the rail at the same time.

Of course, I have done this all of ONE time.  So, I don't suppose the extra speed made a really big impression ;D

[Nate Surveyor]

As matter of fact, I do have 2 sets of notches in the bunkers. I have decided I probably need 3 notches. Use the 2 outer ones to hold smaller logs, and the middle one for real big ones, and double cutting.
I have now discovered a down side to the 40d fix.
I have a 2-1/2 yr old boy. And, I left a hammer within his reach. This left a number of partially debarked logs behind. Then he found the headless 40d's that he apparently decided NEEDED POUNDED!

HMMM! Maybe I will wind up welding a nut on the nails, so that REAL hard logs don't sink the 40d's either!

2-1/2 yr olds are excellent at finding things that move, but shouldn't!

Hats off to 2 yr olds!

My bunkers are PINE, with 2"x2" oak screwed to them. The screws are recessed alot. This way, I can replace the 2"x2" as I wish. If the whole bunker was oak, maybe it would be more 2 yr old proof!


Nate

[BBK]

....I have now discovered a down side to the 40d fix.
I have a 2-1/2 yr old boy. And, I left a hammer within his reach. This left a number of partially debarked logs behind. Then he found the headless 40d's that he apparently decided NEEDED POUNDED!

HMMM! Maybe I will wind up welding a nut on the nails, so that REAL hard logs don't sink the 40d's either!

2-1/2 yr olds are excellent at finding things that move, but shouldn't!

Hats off to 2 yr olds! ....

:D 8) 8) 8) :D

[Dan_Shade]

be aware of the safety of a spike sticking up like that too.  stepping on that would make for a bad day

[Nate Surveyor]

Yeah, Dan, it would. But,  I am not in the habit of stepping in the notches.

My feet are size 13 WIDE, and I wear shoes to match.

The notches with 40d nails are working marvelously!

N

[Dan_Shade]

I'd be more concerned about the kids or other folks wandering around. 

[scsmith42]

Nate, that nail idea is a good one (I don't have rugrats around to worry about stepping on the nail).

Re notches, on smaller logs (16" or less) I'll usually mill two side by side.  Much faster for the reasons stated by Brdmkr (and thanks to Craig Blake "Captain" for teaching me that trick!).

[Nate Surveyor]

I think stepping on the nail is not too bad of a problem.

It is a BIG nail, so it won't puncture easy.

It is recessed in the notch.

And, I found out it works beautifully with dry cedar, with bumps and odd shapes.

N

[Captain]

Thanks for the suggestion Nate.

I had a customer in Missouri (no, not your orginal owner!!)  That used a slightly elevated set of skids, and a lag screw from the bottom on small logs where your nail is.  He was sawing softwood as well, and the stuff would not move, as he also pinned the wooden skids to the ground.  His skids were high enough that he sould use a ratchet to engage the lag screw from the bottom of the skid.

Your method is however simpler, and faster.  I had thought of it but never tried it.  Certainly I will on then next small "bark falling off" slippery set of Eastern White Pine logs I am sawing.  Next to the icy ones, they are my worst for moving when the logs get small.

Captain

[thecfarm]

Looks like a good ideaI Nate.
Captain,I only know a little about how busy you are this year.But 2007 is coming to an end.How is turning into Superman going? Is 2008 looking better?

[Captain]

Thanks for the concern....after the Thanksgiving break, 3 weeks of Paramedic School left.  Only one more shift of clinical time in the hospital this weekend.  After December 17th, it is back to a state of "normalcy" for the most part.  Looking forward to building up the Peterson Sawmill Parts Section in the TimberPro Online Store, and attacking that year long "honey-do" list that is really becoming daunting.  I'm hopefully going to reward myself with a trip to Daytona for Bike Week in February, and looking forward to the sawmill related show circuit as a spectator in 2008.

Captain

[Nate Surveyor]

OK, I have now changed specs.  :D

Specs now call for a headless 60d with the head cut off, and sharpened parralel with the logs, and tracks. This seems to yield less, and mash down less. I have managed to mash my old ones down. I will see if this works!



N

[rockchucker]

As I do not own a mill yet I, have been researching.  This was one of my questions about the smaller stuff.  Very simple design and basically free.  Great idea!  I could see where larger spikes would be helpful also.