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Sublimes Central Boiler 760HDX

Started by sublime68charger, December 01, 2020, 02:21:04 PM

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sublime68charger

So I got a CB 760HDX this fall and got it installed and been up and working the last 10 days.

Pic of My Boiler and wood shed setup.  This is heating 3 buildings  2 story 2,500'House/24x26 Car Garage/1,300' Small Workshop



sublime68charger

some more Pics of my add hoc wood shed she's a not pretty but if it can keep the wood dry and me out of the wind when Having to load up my wheel barrow each day that's all I'm looking for.  Mostly small buzz saw wood in the middle lined with Heavy split wood on the ends to make stacking the small stuff in the middle a little bit easier to due.



 

 

sublime68charger

in the pics on the right corner you can see the door frame I made up as that is my entry and exit with the wheel barrow as I cut the tarp there into 6" wide strips dont have a photo of that but it seems to be working for now as I have the front of the shed close up since it was full of wood.


boilerman101


sublime68charger

Quote from: boilerman101 on December 02, 2020, 10:56:51 PM
Nice set up. Congrats!
thanks,
I have a Taco 015 pump in the house basement this morning that air locked on me which has me a little puzzled as the Pump is below the level of the wood boiler.  Also had a small leak from the input side of the heat exchanger in the house basement.  I Have the Central Boiler Clamp's that I just use my cordless drill to tighten them up and at first when the pex was cold I had a bunch of leaker's had the drill set to 18 on the auto clutch,  Used a heat Gun warmed up the pex and set the drill to 20-21 and retighten them and all was good.
any way I unplugged the pump for 5 min plugged it back in and I had water moving again.
just has me a little puzzled is all.
its a learning curve on this I guess.

hedgerow

Nice looking set up with the boiler and your wood shed. It helps a bunch to keep that wood dry. Make sure you check your bolts were your pump bolts to the flanges on your pipes that they aren't loose and pulling in air. Air locking can be a issue. I have four systems running on my Garn so I always have to watch for air locking issues. Doesn't take much air to keep these pumps from working and you can burn one up pretty quick if its air locked.  

sublime68charger

will double check the input flange bolts tonight. thanks for the tip


went home at lunch time and pump was air locked again.

though the taco 15 will turn it self off when its air locked so it doesn't burn it self out.

also turned the pump down to medium and tonight I think I'll set it to the low side which means its still moving water just not as fast I don't need the water to flow super fast just as long as its moving along in the pex lines it is all good.




sublime68charger

still having problems with that darn pump yet tonight I purged the line and still it wont keep going which is odd to me since the pump is sitting below grade of what the bottom of the boiler is at.  

Granted Water does have to go down from boiler then back up and into the house a rise of 3' but even the 3' rise into the house is below the water exit point of the boiler water will seek to level it self and the pump is still below level from the boiler water out point.


E Yoder

If that pump was mounted in the furnace pushing the entire loop it would work a lot better. With it pulling the loop the incoming line is in a vacuum which pulls microbubbles out of the water. They may be accumulating in that hump in the lines. 
As far as speeds go, the flow rate does matter, but that varies depending on the btu load.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

PoginyHill

Quote from: E Yoder on December 04, 2020, 05:04:15 AMpulls microbubbles out of the water.
Centrifugal pumps need net positive suction head to work properly. With a length of pipe on the suction side of the pump, the higher the flow, the lower the pressure on the suction side and more likely to allow air in the water to escape. On larger pumps when these micro-bubbles collapse, it's cavitation - noisy and damaging. That is probably the biggest downside of OWB with atmospheric pressure compared to a pressurized boiler. Pressurized boilers can have a pump almost anywhere and generally not have problems, because air in the water doesn't escape as easily with the higher pressure.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

I changed out the pump last night from the Taco 15 which had worked fine the first 10 days and then started having problems.

also the Pump is lower than where it would have been if mounted right at the wood boiler.

to a Taco 007 and it worked all threw the night.

Where the hot water came into the house it made a 90 for 16" then another 90 then to the pump I didn't want to have to cut a hole in the floor joist and on my drive to the store to buy the Taco 007 I thought those 2 90 turn probably not doing my pump any favors so I cut the floor joist and now come straight into the house and run to the pump.

Pump is appx 2' below grade of the boiler and 90' feet away from it Lines come out of boiler and are 16" down and run to the house and then rise up to come into the house its a straight run there are 2 90 turns at the boiler before it enters the pex.  Ill get some pictures and post up my setup

when I get time

thanks to all that have replayed.

Also I gonna mount the Taco on some rubber bushing to hopefully cut down on the pump running noise.





sublime68charger

just a pic from the boiler point to the house the trench



 

PoginyHill

I think your problem is the 90 ft of tubing on the suction of the pump. The additional 2ft of "head" or height you gained by having the pump in your house is more than lost when you have any significant flow. Meaning the head loss of the water running through the tube exceeds the 2ft. Is this a 1" line or 1-1/4"? Eliminating the two elbows on the suction certainly helped, but it'll be difficult to overcome that length of tubing.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

E Yoder

Is there a reason the pump is in the house. It's going to continue to give you problems. It needs to push.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

sublime68charger

I thought it would be easier to check on it and such if it was in the basement where I can access it regardless of the weather but If its not gonna perform in the basement I'll move it out to the boiler and put it out there.

Next question I have is I also heat my garage and small work shop from the boiler and that Pump is located on the garage wall in Vertical at the same level it would be at if it was out at the boiler but that run is only 33' from the boiler so alot closer than the 90' away that the house is.

should I move that pump as well or will it be fine where its at?  The trench is down hill to the garage from the boiler and not near as flat of a run as what the house was.

I know most will say just move the pump but it'll be darn tight access in that side boiler access panel if I have both pumps out there.  

thanks for your thoughts and advice on this.

E Yoder

Both a shorter piping distance and downhill helps for sure. I'd try it as is.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

PoginyHill

I agree with E Yoder - might as well give it a try.
Is your garage using the separate circuit from the boiler? Or is it tied into the circuit for your house?
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

gspren

I understand the theory of getting air on the suction side but I have the pumps in both the house and my "man cave" shed for over 10 years with no problems but also not quite the 90 feet your pulling, maybe 70' to the house and 30' to the shed.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

sublime68charger

Garage is on its own circuit.

Garage from boiler 36' to garage wall,  Pump then up 8' to garage ceiling 24' across ceiling 8' down wall back into the ground 90' down hill to my small workshop 1,100 square feet

up the wall 8' to heater and then back  down into the garage up the wall to garage heater then back across the ceiling down the wall and into the ground for boiler return.

I originally had the pump on this loop in the small workshop and it didn't work down there and moved to garage wall closer to the boiler and its worked just fine since.

total pex in garage run is 36'+8+24+8+90+8+8+90+8+24+8+36=384' on this circuit there and back from the boiler. 384' of pex on the garage run if my math is correct.

Pex on the House run is 86' to House 30' in basement to Furnance
86+30+30+86= 232 of Pex on the House run.

Pics of the Boiler Run to garage/workshop.
Boiler to garage trench

<b This is the Inside wall of garage on Boiler side the Pump is located here vertical at height of the top of the car trunk 

r>
 
<b

The trench from the Garage to the small workshop.

r>
<b 
This is the Pex run across the garage ceiling garage is 24' wide


r>

 
<b This is the Garage Wall on the workshop side with the Heater for the garage 


r>
<b This is the small workshop with the heater installed and its own its own dial thermostat need to make my Electric cords a bit nicer but its working as it is. r>

 





PoginyHill

Thanks for the pictures. I think your experience of moving the pump from your workshop to the garage tells the story - minimize pipe run or other head loss on the suction side.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

Next question I have is I would like to put a sensor on the pipe's of my heat exchangers that would alert me if the temp drops below 150 at the heat exchangers so I would know that one of my pumps has stopped working and the water is not being circulated.  

Both the house and workshop would cool the heat exchangers pretty quick if the pumps go down and they call for heat hence me getting a alert that the temp at those heat exchangers are cooling down which means either a air lock on the pump or pump not running.

what would work?
just want to clamp sensor onto the pipe and have it send me alerts if temp drops or I can pull up said sensor and view in realtime the temperature at those locations?

Have Google Wifi wireless set up at home and that seems to work pretty good.
The Boiler I can monitor from my phone both realime data and backlog histroy as well.

get txt and email of low water temp and when to reload the fire and burn time as well on the current fire box load.

PoginyHill

A clamp-on thermostat/switch would do the trick - But you rapidly exceeded my knowledge regarding tying that into a real-time alert with WiFi. Hopefully someone else can provide some ideas.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

DFILER2

For your alerts check out wirelesstag.net, they work really well are pretty simple and you can even do some charting with them.

Your pump issue is odd the 0015E have been the best thing to come along in years. It is a 3 speed, did you have it set on low? That pump will cover the 007 to almost capacity of a 009. Assuming you purged with house pressure and went each direction from your hose connection. It's the most common issue people have, air is stuck in high spots between the boiler and your pump and slowly works itself to the suction side of the circulator.

sublime68charger

My Boiler guy is coming on Thursday or Friday and gonna put the 015 in at the boiler for me.

Yes I had filled the lines with house water first and backfilled into the boiler.

Heck last Thursday I even filled the house lines again. Just to be sure but even then on the house water that will some times have air come threw on that when running water for long times.

The Taco 007 is going fine for now but I the Taco 015 ran fine the first week or so then started kicking out on me.  I was running on the high side then tried both medium and low and after I had Purged it was set on low.

but looking at the long run of pex to the pump I be better off having the pump at the boiler and just pushing the water for the house run

thanks for the wirelesstag.net Ill check it out.

I want to know if my water temp at the heat exchanger's drop below 150 as that mean water temp is drooping for some reason even if the Boiler is up to temp.  The Garage and workshop may not get checked every day so Id like to be able to pull up the temp on those heaters to know my water is being circulated.

sublime68charger

I did the rough in pex stuff and the fittings but hooking up stuff out at the boiler in tight spots I'll leave that to people who due this all the time and know how to make it fit in there.


E Yoder

Air can be dissolved in water (invisible), a vacuum or rising temps makes it clump together. Think opening the cap on a 2 liter of soda dropping the pressure. Bubbles immediately form, I think it's called henry's law. Air seems to come from nowhere. :)
I hear guys talk about using WiFi BBQ thermometers to send text alerts. I think if you tape on incoming piping with metal tape and insulate you should be within a couple of degrees.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

sublime68charger

Quote from: E Yoder on December 10, 2020, 04:09:16 AM
Air can be dissolved in water (invisible), a vacuum or rising temps makes it clump together. Think opening the cap on a 2 liter of soda dropping the pressure. Bubbles immediately form, I think it's called henry's law. Air seems to come from nowhere. :)
I hear guys talk about using WiFi BBQ thermometers to send text alerts. I think if you tape on incoming piping with metal tape and insulate you should be within a couple of degrees.

that is a good idea as well I will look into that also

thanks



sublime68charger

So im about 1/2 way threw my woodshed supply for the year,

temps are -10 at night and single digits during the day and boiler is keeping up just fine.

though I been adding a little extra wood at night to make sure I have enough to make it threw to morning.

some Pics,



 





sublime68charger

the wheel barrow with a heavy load for the stove for the night.



 

sublime68charger

stove full of wood for the night to make it threw with temps around -10 



 

PoginyHill

Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

I get a % Reaction Chamber which at idle is 12 to 20 most time then when fan is on I usually over 70%

I think I saw or read someplace that at 100% is 1200 degrees?  could be wrong on that though

Highest I have seen for % is 105 on reaction chamber 

I know for the burn times they want to be over 70% on reaction chamber to get the clean burn and most efficient use of the wood.

PoginyHill

Not sure I'm following you here. Maybe your display is different than mine. I have the earlier version of your boiler (no cylinder refractory down below). The temp in my reaction chamber will top out between 1,000 and 1,400 deg during it's "on" cycle. I was curious if that cylinder) increases that temp. I think it is intended to mix up the combustion gases better.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

my 
display on the side of stove flips between Water Temp and Reaction Chamber %

that is what my Online graph tells me as well.

if I can find out what the temp is for %100 I will post it here.  I think it was either 1200 or 1400 but I don't remember where I got that information from.



sublime68charger

100% reaction chamber is 900 degrees

I sent a email to central boiler and they told me how to find out my reaction chamber temperature.



Chipmeister

If you are using the Firestar connection on your computer or phone, click on the Reaction Chamber % in the dashboard, and the percent gauge changes to temperature gauge. 

I have the 760 HDX and have hit 1200+ degree reaction temp with good, dry wood. 

sublime68charger

now that I know about the reaction chamber temp ill be checking out how my temps are doing when Im at the 100% burn 

learn something new every day

sublime68charger

Got the boiler going again for this year, so far so good but temp have not been cold.



 

sublime68charger

just a pic of the back heat exchanger the right side is pretty clogged up the left side has already been cleaned out. The Reaction chamber would not go about 30% with the air flow restricted.  I need to be more mindfull of keeping this clean and air flowing smoothly but this is fall start up weather and stove doing alot of idling and I'm not running good wood threw it at the moment either its been a pretty steady diet of 1/3 decent wood and the rest in poor shape.  I have it availble and just getting it used up and saving the good stuff for when it is colder out.



 

sublime68charger

so after I cleaned the exhanger in the back its been running along fine.

Pic of the my graph of a 24 hour burn cycle temp in the 20 range at night and upper 30 during the day so not working hard yet but I'm only loading 1/2 load's and the wood is iffy at best that I'm putting in right now.



 

snobdds

Quote from: sublime68charger on November 18, 2021, 04:10:28 PM
just a pic of the back heat exchanger the right side is pretty clogged up the left side has already been cleaned out. The Reaction chamber would not go about 30% with the air flow restricted.  I need to be more mindfull of keeping this clean and air flowing smoothly but this is fall start up weather and stove doing alot of idling and I'm not running good wood threw it at the moment either its been a pretty steady diet of 1/3 decent wood and the rest in poor shape.  I have it availble and just getting it used up and saving the good stuff for when it is colder out.




There are also pathways above the heat exchanger that needs to be clean out to allow the smoke to escape. 

PoginyHill

@sublime68charger , you might have a cleaner heat exchanger and higher reaction temps (%) if you split some of the larger pieces. I'm guessing the moisture in the center of those larger pieces is still rather high.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

Quote from: snobdds on November 24, 2021, 11:10:10 AM
Quote from: sublime68charger on November 18, 2021, 04:10:28 PM
just a pic of the back heat exchanger the right side is pretty clogged up the left side has already been cleaned out. The Reaction chamber would not go about 30% with the air flow restricted.  I need to be more mindfull of keeping this clean and air flowing smoothly but this is fall start up weather and stove doing alot of idling and I'm not running good wood threw it at the moment either its been a pretty steady diet of 1/3 decent wood and the rest in poor shape.  I have it availble and just getting it used up and saving the good stuff for when it is colder out.




There are also pathways above the heat exchanger that needs to be clean out to allow the smoke to escape.
yep did that when I cleaned the other's.  I Next time I clean the back im gonna make sure to get them upper channels clean as well.  My reaction % will get up to 90 or better if I load with good clean dry wood.  but right now I'm loading junk wood half okay and half kinda rotten and reaction is getting to 40-60 range.  

sublime68charger

Quote from: PoginyHill on November 24, 2021, 11:48:19 AM
@sublime68charger , you might have a cleaner heat exchanger and higher reaction temps (%) if you split some of the larger pieces. I'm guessing the moisture in the center of those larger pieces is still rather high.
yep My good stuff has been split and drying for 6 months.  them big chunks are just getting sent threw as is.  When it gets colder I start burning the better stuff.  Those big junks came from a tree that been down for 10 plus years and just getting it cleaned up to make my woods area around the house look a little cleaner.  It was close by and easy to get pull to the stove area block it up pile up on my outside pile and throw in a big chunk easy fill up along with some better wood from the shed.  Outside pile only gets drawn from when its not covered in snow.

sublime68charger

Fire wood shed full and ready for the winter!



 

sublime68charger

also view of my side access door I put into the shed.  Its not much but it seems to work fine for what it is.



 

sublime68charger

some wood I pulled into the wood yard will get blocked into big chunks and tossed into the boiler for overnight burns.



 

sublime68charger

Had my John Deere 140 out today and brought in a tree top to the wood lot.  Was pretty impressed that the 140 was able to get this pulled in.  

 

Wood Shed

I do not have your model furnace but I have had a CB 6048 operating for sixteen seasons now and YES fingers are crossed.  My circulating pump is in the basement and OWB is 110 ft away and I have never had a problem with the pump which runs continuously while the boiler is in use.  Installation done professionally by contractors that are both (brothers) engineers.  I have heat running to my shop that is not used but I heat a 3000 sq. ft. home and 24x24 garage as well as heat domestic hot water.
A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in." -Greek Proverb

sublime68charger

Quote from: Wood Shed on December 13, 2021, 07:01:15 PM
I do not have your model furnace but I have had a CB 6048 operating for sixteen seasons now and YES fingers are crossed.  My circulating pump is in the basement and OWB is 110 ft away and I have never had a problem with the pump which runs continuously while the boiler is in use.  Installation done professionally by contractors that are both (brothers) engineers.  I have heat running to my shop that is not used but I heat a 3000 sq. ft. home and 24x24 garage as well as heat domestic hot water.
for your pump that is 110' how many 90's in the run to the pump or is it a straight line and also Height of Boiler to pump and does the line have any elevation changes?  My basement pump had 2 90's where the line came into the basement about 1' apart and then a rise of 2' outside from the ground up to sill plate to come into the house.  Pump was still below the boiler and it would work for a bit but would air lock after a day or 2 on me.  Moved the house pump out to the boiler and no problems out there. 
 My garage pump is only 30' from boiler and no 90's in that line and its been working in the garage just fine since I put the pump there.

sublime68charger

some storm damage trees cleaned up and added to my outside blend in pallet,  The kids did the stacking so its not the best job in the world by far but I didn't have to move the wood had them due I just sawed it into blocks.



 

 

 

sublime68charger

just some graphs of the boiler 1 with good dry wood and another with punky iffy wood at best.



 

 

PoginyHill

You can definitely see the difference in fan run times and cooler burn with less than ideal wood. I did a similar thing my first year with the older Classic Edge 750 - spent the summer installing that and building my woodshed - not on firewood. So that first winter burnt dead, but unseasoned fir mostly. Fan ran a lot and didn't get above 1000F very often. Much better wood now and the performance shows it. We are in a warm spell, but for a typical 10-25F winter day, my fan will run about 6 hrs or so in 24hrs. Reaction chamber normally get between 1200 and 1400F each cycle.


 

Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

PoingyHill you are correct.

The iffy stuff sure will burn but it dont like to burn at a great rate.  I'm waiting for the cold to get here and then I'll put the good wood to it and let it take off and go!  Till then I'll keep adding in my punky Iffy stuff as best I can it will burn and make heat just not great at it.  I'm hoping though I can make it threw winter with out going threw my whole wood shed of wood like last year and then this spring I'm gonna stack it back full again and it will have all summer to dry and be all good wood for next year and I wont have to be scrambling like I was this year.  I want to build a bigger and better wood shed but I need to make sure i have wood cut first and ready before I use the time I have to build a better wood shed.  I only have so much free time and energy to get stuff done.  
Time/Money/Ambition is what it take to make things happen I ususally only have 1 of the 3 and thats a hard way to get projects done.
When I have the Time I don't have the Money to buy what I need or the Ambition to due what I want.
When I have the Money I don't have the Time or the Ambition to go and get what I need.
When I have the Ambition well then the Time or Money don't matter its a make it Happen somehow and go with the plan!


beenthere

Quoteand then this spring I'm gonna stack it back full again and it will have all summer to dry and be all good wood for next year and I wont have to be scrambling like I was this year.

Wood cut in the spring will be good to burn a year and more after this spring. Oak add another year to be seasoned good for burning.
Ash good after 9-12 months of seasoning..

Get at least one year (better if two, and great if three) years ahead. Often could tell a remarkable difference in heat from the wood burner between the two year seasoned and the three year seasoned. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Andries

Good advice beenthere, we find the same up here.
Splitting fine speeds up the drying time too and if you've got other people firing up the stove or boiler, they have an easier time of it. A 16" half of bur oak is a bit much for a 12 year old GD.
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

sublime68charger

BeenThere and Andries


95% of the wood I cut up has either been standing dead and fell over or was a tree top that was dropped 6 years and been on the ground so its all been dead wood for a few years heck some of it is on the iffy side of even being what I would consider good wood.  I'm well ahead of where I was this last year on wood usage and hoping to get even farther ahead this winter spring on my wood pile storage.  I want to build another Wood shed where my outside wood pile is at and be able to get storage for wood 2 years out right at the boiler sight and then have year 3 out in the woods in various piles on pallets that get brought to the wood lot after its been out in the woods stacked and split and drying for over a year.  

sublime68charger

Picture of the back of the boiler with half the turbolaters plugged up and then you take them out and clean up where they go as best you can and put them back in.  If they dont' want to go back in easy you put them on the cement find a board the same length and stop them a bit to flatten them out and they go back into there sport alot better.

Left is Clean Right is clogged in first Pic.


 

 

 

PoginyHill

I don't have nearly the build-up you show in your heat exchanger. I don't have turbulators - could that be the difference? Have you ever left out one or two and see if you get the same build-up?
I clean mine once per week. Normally just a light coating of powder on the metal that comes off with a wire brush. Occasionally I'll scrape down to clean metal, but that's normally a couple times per heating season.
I had wondered if retrofitting mine with turbulators would increase the efficiency at all.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

Quote from: PoginyHill on January 03, 2022, 12:13:33 PM
I don't have nearly the build-up you show in your heat exchanger. I don't have turbulators - could that be the difference? Have you ever left out one or two and see if you get the same build-up?
I clean mine once per week. Normally just a light coating of powder on the metal that comes off with a wire brush. Occasionally I'll scrape down to clean metal, but that's normally a couple times per heating season.
I had wondered if retrofitting mine with turbulators would increase the efficiency at all.
when burning punky/wet wood it builds up faster I have found out.  I have run for a day or 2 with some of them pulled out.  when I checked it pretty plugged up and had on nicer clothes and didn't want to clean it out right then and there.  
I find when I can't get a High on the burn cycle its time to clean the tubrolaters out.
I clean them 1 time a month check them every other week.  Clean the reaction chamber 1 time a week.  I have thought about just pulling them all out and just running without them.  
I just cleaned them Saturday and this week temp is around 0.  So the stove is running a bit more.  Getting more High time on the burn cycles which means its burning clean more than not.
Its a learning to read your graph and what the burn times are looking like. 
I have had it run for a few days' and only getting to low or medium on the % still making heat for the water and the wood was iffy at best so thinking I didn't have the BTU in the wood to make the heat.  It then seems to build up faster,  a round cycle burn bad wood makes more smoke builds up on the exchanger more not letting the air flow which then causes more build up faster etc .......

Next year I hope to have all my wood at least be split and drying for the summer.  This year not so much.  I have good dry wood that is what I'm running now with it being colder and I don't want to have to spend time out there cleaning the darn stove when its cold.  When its warmer I'll burn the iffy stuff and if I have to clean the stove more cause the wood is suspect its not so bad.

If I burn all my good stuff then I'll have to be cutting more to just make it threw the winter.
the circle of life when running a wood boiler I guess.

I may try running with out them as they was a pain to get put back in but then found that make them flatter trick and they went in alot better this last time.

PoginyHill

Just for fun, I decided to calculate the average BTU output of my Classic Edge 750 for one cycle. The cycle ran for 20mins to raise the 330gal of water 15deg. A BTU is the heat required to raise 1lb of water 1deg F. So the math works out to be 124,000 BTU/hr.

Some caveats: There was heat demand in the house during that cycle, so the heat input was more than simply raising the water temp. And the first two minutes of time were getting the fire "going" again.

Central boiler claims a 12-hr average output of about 150,000 BTU/hr with a max of 245,000 (per EPA tests). I'd say that I'm getting about those numbers with my unit given the parameters I mentioned.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

sublime68charger

thanks for the sharing your math numbers.  I know I could have probaly gotten by with a 560HDX but having the bigger stove gives me more leeway on things.

I have idea's of maybe adding a green house onto my little workshop and that would take some heat to keep that warm for plants to grow.

sublime68charger

 Been busy getting some wood cut of for this years run.  I like my little wood cutting deck I have and then the Loggin ATV I have set up.



 

 

 

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sublime68charger

Wood shed is full for the year,  My light duty hauling ATV,  Honda 200sx and trailer.  fill trailer just level and hope and pray the ATV has the power and traction to make the hill climb.



 

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