sharpening options

[symamania]

Gday guys

I`m sure this would have been asked a million times but I couldn't see a recent topic about it. What are the best options for sharpening your chainsaw currently I use one of these.

http://www.pferd.com/au-en/4695_ENA_HTML.htm

which is ok for use with my smaller saw but now I`ve purchased a stihl 076 to use in a CSM I figure id have to sharpener alot more frequently, but I was wondering if that's what you Pro`s use.I`ve been considering buying a cheap wall mounted electric sharpener but with conflicting reports I`m not sure.

let me know the score lads

cheers

[beenthere]

Different strokes for different folks (old saying) and no pun intended.

I want to see more of the tooth as I sharpen. I do use the Pferd Husqvarna roller jig that in my opinion controls the depth of the round file. Certainly doesn't take me as long as the person using the single round file as shown in the video.

Experience as often described here on the Forum varies, but if I recall correctly, the use of an electrical device to sharpen is often not the best solution for good filing, nor the fastest.

[HolmenTree]

Stihl sells that  all in one Pferd filing guide in their own orange and grey colors. It's  a great tool. I recommend  it for novice and advanced  chainsaw filers.

On a chainsaw  mill like an Alaskan its best to be able to touch up the chain in the field.
Using a filing guide without the trouble removing the saw from the mill every time, I file both left and right hand sides cutters from one side.
Having said that I mean the file goes into the right hand cutter's working corner....outside in.

[mad murdock]

Granberg's 12 vDC grinder with guide is a pretty slick setup for sharpening "on the mill". Easier than filing too.

[symamania]

is the grandberg 12v sharpener tricky to set up and get it right? watched a couple of vids on it

what about the timberline sharpener looks pretty good but I guess your restricted to what angle you can put on your chain

[mad murdock]

I have not used their electirc sharpener, but it looks like it is similar to the setup of the granberg file guide, which is almost the same as the oregon one, which i have, which is easy to setuo and use, best oart is you can select any angle to sharpen.

[symamania]

I think im leaning to ]wards getting this bad boy  http://granberg.com/product/g1012xt-precision-grinder

[HolmenTree]

12VoltDC grinders do the job if it has enough cord to reach the tailgate of your pickup so you can comfortably  sharpen your saw. Not sure if there's a cordless model available which would be alot more portable at the stump.........spare batteries ?

Once a chain is sharpened  with these grinders even  a new file won't  touch it as the cutters are hardened so much.......
Also the case hardening makes funky cutting edge durability  results too.

[foresterstan]

I can get new files for pretty cheap, and a sharp file makes quick work of a sharpening job, especially if you don't leave it too long.
I tried some more complicated set-ups but always reverted to a sharp file in my pocket and trying not to hit dirt...

[beenthere]

foresterstan
I think that is usually what most people eventually find out. In the end, the trusty file wins.

[celliott]

foresterstan
I think that is usually what most people eventually find out. In the end, the trusty file wins.

Indeed. Best to just do your best to learn hand filing. It can take awhile, but once you got it, you GOT it. And you'll be happy with the results.
Took me a little while to get the hang of it. The husky roller guide helps alot. I can freehand now, thanks to muscle memory from that guide, but I still use it every now and then. Always use it for the depth gauges.

[4x4American]

Same here.  I just use a regular file, works great.  I also file from the outside in, so that the burr is not on the working edge of the cutter.  There was a great article on sharpening that way in a past issue of Independant Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine.  All the time I get people telling me I'm doing it wrong.  Even today at coffee break I was sharpening my saw.  The truck driver said he's never seen anybody do it like that before.  I said well then you ain't never seen it done proper!

[lumberjack48]

  All you need is a round file, flat file, and a Carlton File-O-Plate. After using it for a week or two you'll be filing by hand.
Keeping a saw sharp in the field is one of the main things to learn, to get production. You can sharpen in the field with the file-o-plate.

  This cutter is dull, the edge is gone, see the shinny edge on the cutter, one stroke of the file and it should be gone, if not take another stroke. Long slow stroke, don't push to hard, nice and easy.

http://landscape-project.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/zatochka-benzopily4.jpg

  This is what the sharp cutter looks like.

http://arborist101.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/SharpTooth.jpg

      This is when i'd sharpen
http://arborist101.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Dull-Tooth.jpg

      This what i wanted it to look like
http://landscape-project.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/zatochka-benzopily3.jpg

Filing by hand is simple, but you have to watch what your doing. Filing the right hand side is easy, when filing the left hand side, with the file in your right hand, put your left arm over the end of the bar and take hold of the end of the file with your left hand. Now you can guide the file with your left hand while pushing the file with your right hand. It will take a few times to really get the feel for it. Once you know what your looking for or when the cutter sharp you got it.

[mad murdock]

You guys are correct, a file most times, is the best.  The OP was referring to milling and sharpening during that process.  Using a file to sharpen while the Alaska mill is bolted to the bar is a pain.  I have done it plenty.  It can be done, but the Granberg mini grinder is the way to go, if you are wanting to sharpen on the fly, and not take the mill off the bar every time you have to sharpen, or touch up. In all other scenarios, the file-o-plate, a flat and round file do fine.  The other aspect of sharpening a milling chain is the 0-10 deg angle, that is hard to get without a guide, and as you may already know, consistency is key to a smooth milling chainsaw setup, when it comes to keeping it cutting true and smooth.  FWIW, that is what I have come to know, having done it for a while now. 

[bandmiller2]

I go both ways, file and grind. Most of the time sharp file with an occasional grind to true things up. As most the guys say its worth wile to learn to file properly. Frank C.

[Dixon700]

I'm no professional, but this is what I use.
  http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint           
I file at a 30* angle and a 5* angle which follows the factory angles of my stihl rs chain with a 13/32 file. Got a pack of 12 for $16.

[luvmexfood]

My process is pretty much as bandmiller2 described. Touchup in the field with a file. Rocked chains come-in to the grinder and after a few filings. Then I usually do the rakers while in the shop.

My grinder is a little HF. Does an ok job. Angles are a little tricky to set due to the big lines on the scale. Usually get close with them then check (keep a spare pair of cheap reading glasses nearby along with a desk lamp)  with the marking on the chain to check and adjust slightly if necessary.

[CTYank]

I'm no professional, but this is what I use.
  http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint           
I file at a 30* angle and a 5* angle which follows the factory angles of my stihl rs chain with a 13/32 file. Got a pack of 12 for $16.

Been using one of those (the same one) since the late '70s. Still works great. Enables keeping cutters razor-sharp with minimal metal removal- chains last a looooong time. 30/0 deg and 1/5 file diameter above the tooth with 5/32" or 7/32" file a/r. Oregon/WoodlandPro chains, Oregon files, no probs.
Grinder works fine for rocked chains (only), mainly buds' chains. If you use a grinder with "quick hits" on the cutters, there's no problem IME affecting cutters with over-temps. $100-129 NT grinder does the job fine for my purposes.
I've tried a bud's cheapie HF grinder that he got with coupons or something for ~$20. IMO, isn't worth that, a complete POJ. Orders of magnitude inferior to the NT ~$100 grinder. Not really comparable, again IMO.

[NH-Murph]

Sometimes...when I'm feeling spendy, I'll spring for a nice wooden file handle.  I don't like guides or any gizmos that require electric power.  Round file and a flat file work just fine for me.  I file the left side teeth with my right hand and my right side teeth with my left hand.  I just pass the file back and fourth and hit all the teeth on one trip around the bar.  I have a couple buddies that are loggers that think I'm retarded or something when they see me file my saw, but it cuts fine when I'm done and it works well for me.

[symamania]

just got my chain back from the dealer for a quick touch up and what difference it makes shows how bad at sharpening I am hahah

[Dixon700]

I'm no professional, but this is what I use.
  http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint           
I file at a 30* angle and a 5* angle which follows the factory angles of my stihl rs chain with a 13/32 file. Got a pack of 12 for $16.

30/0 deg and 1/5 file diameter above the tooth with 5/32" or 7/32" file a/r.

30* across and 0* horizontally?  Is that better than the factory 35* and 5* horizontally? Whats the 1/5 file diameter?   I'm open to suggestions for better filing.

I have a harbor freight cheapie grinder for rocked chains. If you pay  close attention to your settings you can get ok results.

[Bill]

Pretty much files are my choice . A couple gentle passes on the teeth on one side then flip the saw around and the same number of passes on the other side ( file passing same direction on the teeth ) .

I 've seen folks get their chains back from shops with not much left of the teeth - figure I 'd probably do better myself even if I had to redo it once or twice to get it right .

Just my $0.02

[grassfed]

I just watched a couple of youtube videos and I was surprised that they all seemed to show people filing from the side of the saw. Maybe that is why people like using the file guides. I stand behind the saw, a bit to the left hand side when I file with my right hand on the file handle and my left hand on the file end. I swap to do the left. I lean down close and rest my chest on the saw handle. This way I get a real clear view of the cutting corner and the witness mark. This makes it very easy to keep the angle correct and also see exactly when the corner is sharp. It is quick and it does not take long to get used to sharpening left handed. All of the good cutters I have known sharpen this way.

[UniversalFogger]

I bought the Stihl 2 in 1 Easy file version of the Pferd.  I really, really like it.

Paid 36 for it at my local dealer, and have found it to be the best filing tool I've used. I've owned grinders, 12v versions, and hand files, and have become proficient with the hand files over the years.

Nice thing about the Pferd/Stihl version is how ergonomic the thing is.  REAL easy to keep your angles and provide smooth push/pull action, better than a file handle.  The fact that it touches the rakers when needed is real nice too.  I'd highly recommend this file holder-sharpener. 

[antoine.rizzotti]

Did some research as I myself have no idea. This looks pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMJm6UNMuik . Hope it helps.