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Official MS261CM vs 550XP test

Started by HolmenTree, June 06, 2017, 10:46:34 PM

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Crusarius

I did finally run mine though a punky red oak log. sure cut nice for its first cut. can't wait to get it into some real wood.

Weekend_Sawyer

I ran mine out of fuel the other day.
It took something like 30 pulls to get it started.
I'm going to try not to do that again.
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

trapper

Sold my 290 on craigslist today and ordered the 261cm .  Will be here next week.  I love my 241cm that I replaced the 250 with.  I will buy the stihl oil to get the extended warranty since I use it anyway.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

gspren

Quote from: trapper on April 27, 2018, 12:13:14 AM
Sold my 290 on craigslist today and ordered the 261cm .  Will be here next week.  I love my 241cm that I replaced the 250 with.  I will buy the stihl oil to get the extended warranty since I use it anyway.
After you run the 261 awhile give us a comparison on the 261 to the 241 as to felt weight and power.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

Crusarius

Holmen tree I want to thank you for taking the time to do this real world test. I finally got to use my MS261 cm for real tonight. I ran 1 tank of fuel through it. I have never had a saw cut anything like this one did and that was just the first tank.

The other user that mentioned running out of fuel is bad. I completely agree. It was a real pain to get it running again after running it out of fuel. I really wish stihl had put a primer bubble on it.

Overall. best saw I have ever run. it went through a 12" pine like a hot knife through butter. I can actually say now that I will no longer delay getting the saw out to cut something. Before it took an act of god to get me to fight with the stupid saw. Now I am sooo happy. It hurt when I bought it but it sure felt great to saw with it.

Thanx again. Keep up the great work. Love to see some more real world testing on other things I need to buy :)

I did buy a stihl power broom that also works great.

DelawhereJoe

I've noticed with my 362 c-m when it gets low on fuel it will start to miss a few times when ot gets low on fuel, then I stop and refuel it. I've never completely run her dry so I've never experienced what you guys are talking about, I know its a different saw but it should act about the same.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

Crusarius

I did notice the same thing on mine. now I know and I will try not to run it out anymore.

trapper

Not broke in yet but my 261 does not like hot weather.  Make a few cuts or noodle a round if I shut it off It does not restart  and I have to use the 241.
Have not used it in cold weather yet. Leave it sit a day and it starts right up.  Will a shorter bar help?  Dealer talked me into the 20 inch.  Yes the baffle in the carb is set for summer.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

John Mc

I would not use a 20" bar on a 50cc chainsaw. On the 50cc saws I've used, I find a 16" bar a better match - in terms of both power and balance.

However, I doubt that has much to do with your hard starting when hot.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

trapper, take it into your dealer and they may have to do a upgrade on the fuel settings with just a few clicks of the mouse on the laptop.
It should still be on warranty and my advice to other buyers the extended warranty is worth it.
Knock on wood my 261 is flawless running in the heat been good so far.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

weimedog

Quote from: HolmenTree on July 14, 2018, 02:43:10 PM
trapper, take it into your dealer and they may have to do a upgrade on the fuel settings with just a few clicks of the mouse on the laptop.
It should still be on warranty and my advice to other buyers the extended warranty is worth it.
Knock on wood my 261 is flawless running in the heat been good so far.
Should sounds familiar because the system used is..well..:)  
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

HolmenTree

Quote from: weimedog on July 14, 2018, 07:37:26 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on July 14, 2018, 02:43:10 PM
trapper, take it into your dealer and they may have to do a upgrade on the fuel settings with just a few clicks of the mouse on the laptop.
It should still be on warranty and my advice to other buyers the extended warranty is worth it.
Knock on wood my 261 is flawless running in the heat been good so far.
Should sounds familiar because the system used is..well..:)  
I'll use the correct term, "it shall be on warranty." :)
Seeing trapper said it wasn't broke in yet.
Here's a pic of the 550XP my Husky dealer gave me to  replace the faulty 550 with.
Looks pretty good outfitted with a professional grade Windsor Mini Pro bar and Stihl 23RS chain. None of this consumer laminated bar stuff.
The new owner was very happy with this not broke in yet saw when I sold it to him last winter. :)


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

trapper

I bought the stihl oil to get the extended warranty on both the 241 and the 261.  It is all I use along with premium gas without ethanol. 
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

HolmenTree

You're good to go trapper, hopefully your dealer and tech have all the proper software and training.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

weimedog

Quote from: HolmenTree on July 14, 2018, 08:38:15 PM
Quote from: weimedog on July 14, 2018, 07:37:26 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on July 14, 2018, 02:43:10 PM
trapper, take it into your dealer and they may have to do a upgrade on the fuel settings with just a few clicks of the mouse on the laptop.
It should still be on warranty and my advice to other buyers the extended warranty is worth it.
Knock on wood my 261 is flawless running in the heat been good so far.
Should sounds familiar because the system used is..well..:)  
I'll use the correct term, "it shall be on warranty." :)
Seeing trapper said it wasn't broke in yet.
Here's a pic of the 550XP my Husky dealer gave me to  replace the faulty 550 with.
Looks pretty good outfitted with a professional grade Windsor Mini Pro bar and Stihl 23RS chain. None of this consumer laminated bar stuff.
The new owner was very happy with this not broke in yet saw when I sold it to him last winter. :)



Used to an old southern saying  "From the frying pan into the fire"..:) I've said it for a while, all the manufacturers have to learn the new technology. AND both Stihl & Husqvarna being responsible will support their "learning" curves with good customer support. The biggest difference is the open nature of the discussion with Husqvarna's vs. a more controlled style in the other community. The "Autotune" systems are essentially the same technology. Both have matured and the later versions statistically have evolved to a good place. Same with the "blend" of Autotune to fuel efficient porting strategies that run hotter. What many don't know is there have been substantial upgrades to the 550 over its life span. A kit is available that replaces some internals to the carb along with the fuel line to get it in a cooler place. Makes a lot of difference. And also the new designs from both companies are a product of what they have learned. 572 case and point. One thing I like with the Husqvarna's is all the upgrades to this point with the 550 series and 562 series saws can be retro'ed to the earlier versions. They have evolved the product so there is a way to maintain the investment with the newer parts. I don't know the Stihl product line enough to comment on their upgrades but I assume they have done similar things.

Relative to "hot start", one really simple thing to check is if the "air valve" side of the carb (to the strato ports) actually snaps shut. I've seen them on some of the other Stihl M-tronics systems where for some reason they will hang a little and the saw won't drop back to idle as fast as it should and sometimes simply won't restart. Scares the hell out of the owner with the high idle and slow to get to low idle symptoms and all related things, but is not a big deal. Not sure the best fix, sometimes a simple cleaning of the area works. Either way the folks who went to a Stihl dealer had it resolved.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

trapper

Quote from: HolmenTree on July 14, 2018, 10:25:30 PM
You're good to go trapper, hopefully your dealer and tech have all the proper software and training.
The owner and tech are the same person.  Says he has the software and has had good experience with the 261.  When I bought it he ordered one instead of giving me one from stock to get the latest technology.  I buy all my lawn and garden equipment from him and he gives me good service at times dropping what he is doing to take care of a small problem.  
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

teakwood

I would also never run a 20" on a 261. more like 16"
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Crusarius

Friend of mine had a nice big walnut come down blocking his driveway yesterday. I have a 20" bar on my 261 and it rocked through all of that tree. The smallest log I cut was 9". The largest was around 14" I think. Did not measure all of them on the trailer. Still have 24' of saw logs that need to be removed but the trunk is almost 24" diameter. 

I don't see why you guys say you would not run a 20" bar on the 261. I am super happy with my 261. It is the best saw I have ever run. 

John Mc

Crusarius - the 261 is a really nice saw, I just find that a 16" bar is a far better match in terms of the power available and the weight and balance of the saw for all of the 50 cc saws I've ever used. I cut mainly hardwoods. Maybe I would feel differently if I cut softwoods (though I doubt it, since I still don't like the balance of a 20" bar on my 50cc saws).

If I need a longer bar, I go to a 60cc saw (though even my 357XP also wears a 16" bar 95% of the time). If I know I'm going to be doing a lot of cutting greater than 16" diameter, I'll use a saw that can handle a longer bar well (for example, if I'm bucking up a bunch of stuff greater than 16" for firewood). If I'm thinning a stand while felling for firewood, most of what I'm cutting is under 16". I'd rather use the shorter bar and carry around a lighter saw which works just fine for the vast majority of what I'm cutting - yes, I do occasionally have to fell a larger tree by cutting from both sides, but I'll accept that trade-off for carrying a lighter saw with a shorter bar that is more maneuverable and can more easily double as a limbing saw.

I know some people like longer bars when limbing because it extends their reach and avoids having to bend down so much. Personally, I find that a false economy: working out at the wrong end of a longer lever negates and of the reach and bending advantages, and the longer bar just gets in the way when manuevering for efficient limbing. I prefer to get right up to where I'm cutting, rather than reaching out. (An old neck and upper back injury from wrestling in college forces me to pay close attention to using good ergonomics when cutting, or I'll end up with multiple trips to the Chiropractor - my physical therapist wife has gotten tired of fixing me when I'm broken).

I'm not saying my way is the only way, or the beast way. It's just what works for me and the techniques I use (or am forced to adopt as my body gets older and creakier). If the longer bar works for you, go for it.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

trapper

The 261 being my largest saw would putting a 14 on the 241  A 16 on the 261 and saving the 20 for when I need it be better?  I cut everything but mostly hardwood.  The other day sparks were flying as I was cutting hickory for a friend with the 241.  Also is there any way to keep the chain from getting plugged under the clutch cover when noodling.   Tree trimmer sometimes brings me some big pieces and that is the only way to get them small enough to handle
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

gspren

Trapper, how do you like the 241 vs the 261? Is it enough difference to have both?
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

John Mc

My 20" bar will fit either my 50cc or my 60cc saw. Both of them wear a 16" bar most of the time, and the 20" gets put on when I know I have larger wood to cut. When I had a 40cc saw, it also wore a 16" bar (mostly for convenience: it used the same bar and chain as my 50cc saw).

Which size bar works for you depends a lot on personal preference. If you have a 16" bar that will fit your 261, try it out in a variety of applications and see what you think. Having two bars to fit the saw (regardless of size) can make some sense anyway: you have a spare if one gets damaged, and if you get pinched in a tree, you can remove the bar, put on the spare and cut yourself out (not so much needed if you have another saw with you).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: trapper on July 16, 2018, 10:20:51 AM
The 261 being my largest saw would putting a 14 on the 241  A 16 on the 261 and saving the 20 for when I need it be better?  I cut everything but mostly hardwood.  The other day sparks were flying as I was cutting hickory for a friend with the 241.  Also is there any way to keep the chain from getting plugged under the clutch cover when noodling.   Tree trimmer sometimes brings me some big pieces and that is the only way to get them small enough to handle
I don't know what chain you have on the 241but I would stick with a 16" on both the 241/261. And yes a 20" b/c for backup would be perfect.
For noodling I remove the sprocket cover and shim up the bar studs onto the bar with washers, then put the nuts back on. Now you have free noodle chip clearance that will just fall off the saw and your chain brake still works.
You will have to use older style bar nuts as the 261's bar nuts are captive to the cover.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

Another thing that helps with noodling is to lift the saw handle up a bit so you are cutting at an angle to the log, rather than exactly parallel to the grain. The further you lift it, the smaller the chips. I find 30˚ or so works OK for me, but I'm cutting with a different saw than you are.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

teakwood

Quote from: John Mc on July 16, 2018, 09:08:16 AM
Crusarius - the 261 is a really nice saw, I just find that a 16" bar is a far better match in terms of the power available and the weight and balance of the saw for all of the 50 cc saws I've ever used. I cut mainly hardwoods. Maybe I would feel differently if I cut softwoods (though I doubt it, since I still don't like the balance of a 20" bar on my 50cc saws).

If I need a longer bar, I go to a 60cc saw (though even my 357XP also wears a 16" bar 95% of the time). If I know I'm going to be doing a lot of cutting greater than 16" diameter, I'll use a saw that can handle a longer bar well (for example, if I'm bucking up a bunch of stuff greater than 16" for firewood). If I'm thinning a stand while felling for firewood, most of what I'm cutting is under 16". I'd rather use the shorter bar and carry around a lighter saw which works just fine for the vast majority of what I'm cutting - yes, I do occasionally have to fell a larger tree by cutting from both sides, but I'll accept that trade-off for carrying a lighter saw with a shorter bar that is more maneuverable and can more easily double as a limbing saw.

I know some people like longer bars when limbing because it extends their reach and avoids having to bend down so much. Personally, I find that a false economy: working out at the wrong end of a longer lever negates and of the reach and bending advantages, and the longer bar just gets in the way when manuevering for efficient limbing. I prefer to get right up to where I'm cutting, rather than reaching out. (An old neck and upper back injury from wrestling in college forces me to pay close attention to using good ergonomics when cutting, or I'll end up with multiple trips to the Chiropractor - my physical therapist wife has gotten tired of fixing me when I'm broken).

I'm not saying my way is the only way, or the beast way. It's just what works for me and the techniques I use (or am forced to adopt as my body gets older and creakier). If the longer bar works for you, go for it.
I feel exactly the same as John MC with that post!  Excellent explanation. 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

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