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Husqvarna 61 Troubleshooting

Started by blinkstudio, February 15, 2021, 12:13:35 PM

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blinkstudio

I picked up an old Husky 61 from eBay UK last year, put a new 20" Oregon bar and chain on it and it ran really solid for a pretty decent amount of firewood cutting and milling a handful of 12" wide, 6-8 ft logs of ash and maple logs into boards

This year I mounted it in the mill and tried the first cut in a cherry log, only about 10" wide and about 5' long. Unfortunately it wasn't running as well as the 1st year at all. It started with no problems and idles reliably. Pick up seems OK but at full revs it would run OK briefly then scream and bog, like it was getting super lean. This sounds like a situation that could lead to damage so I need to sort it, quite apart from the fact that it can't really be used when acting like this. I checked carb settings which were about 1 1/4 turns out on both which sounds within expected. I experimented with different settings but wasn't able to get it running better.

So I have pulled out the carb and cleaned it, replacing the diaphragms, which didn't look in very bad condition anyway. I also put a new needle in there for good measure. I pulled out the fuel line and inspected it, this was good in condition but I put a new one in anyway I cleaned the fuel filter by spraying carb cleaner back though which seemed to give masses of flow. I reinstalled the carb with a little gasket sealer to prevent any air leaks and set carb screws to factory settings of 1 turn out each.

It started fine and seemed to be running better but when I stuck it on the mill and started to use it the same symptom came back.

Am I right in thinking this symptom is fuel starvation or excess air causing extreme lean condition or is there another explanation for surging and bogging at full throttle?

Any suggestions as to a possible remedy or further investigation?

Thanks

Tacotodd

Be careful with that gasket sealer, if you don't apply the thinnest of coats it's probably going to get into stuff that you don't want it to. 

Maybe do weimedog's trick with the brakeclean while running but at idle. If it dies on the spot, there's your leak! It works well and will not hurt anything but some time.
Trying harder everyday.

Guydreads

Basically as Tacotodd said, spray the intake boot, crank seals if possible, and base gasket with brake clean.

blinkstudio

Quote from: Tacotodd on February 15, 2021, 02:05:21 PM
Be careful with that gasket sealer, if you don't apply the thinnest of coats it's probably going to get into stuff that you don't want it to.

Maybe do weimedog's trick with the brakeclean while running but at idle. If it dies on the spot, there's your leak! It works well and will not hurt anything but some time.
Thanks for replying.
I'm a little familiar with the idea of spraying flammable material around carb/cylinder junctions to try to find air leaks. Is the idea in this case that if the very flammable break cleaner finds its way in the mix will be too rich and kill the idle?

Tacotodd

It'll definitely die. Go slow and do different areas of the thing. You don't want to dunk the thing, that's only going to tell you that it's going to die. A little in one place and then move it to the next. When (and if) it dies, that's the area to concentrate on. For giggles, repeat at other spots. If it happens there as well, more places to work on. When you get all of the places addressed and the saw back together and running, do it again just to make sure that you don't have any more air leaks! When you get them all taken care of then you can tune in, but only AFTER all of the leaks have been fixed.

BTW brake cleaner will give you an immediate response.
Trying harder everyday.

Ben Cut-wright

Several replies used the terms "dies and dying". Brake Clean sucked into the combustion chamber can produce deadly phosgene gas in the exhaust. "It can be fatal in doses as low as 4 parts per million. Once exposed, there is no antidote for Phosgene poisoning. "  Direct contact with the fluid or vapors can cause significant health issues.

Do not use standard brake cleaner fluids for leak detection in combustion engines.

mike_belben

The only surefire way to test it is to make blankoff plates for the intake and exhaust ports (i use 1/8 or so aluminum plate with a patch of innertube rubber glued to it for the seal) and use a compression tester adapter to thread into the plug.  The adapter needs an NPT end so you can rig up a gauge and shrader valve or air chuck.   Mine allowed both vacuum testing to determine a leak and pressure testing so i could submerge a case to find the source.  



Its not something most guys would build for one saw but i used it often.  
Praise The Lord

Michael

If I remember that saw has a two piece ignition. When one starts to go bad you will experience the symptoms described. Change both units.
If you need saws or parts I may be able to help.

blinkstudio

After all that you're gonna hate me. 

I think I have sorted it.

Wanna know how?

Fresh fuel.


Doh!!!

sawguy21

 ;D Sometimes the simplest things will git ya!
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

MikeBugkill

Don't feel bad. We have all done it. Picked up good lawnmowers on the side of the road and that's all they needed.

Spike60

Bad fuel is an all day, every day occurance in the store. 1/2 the customers react to that by saying, "But I just put fresh gas in there." More often than not right in with the bad fuel. Can't "unspoil" bad milk by pouring fresh milk into the bottle. :)
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

mike_belben

Praise The Lord

Tacotodd

Trying harder everyday.

sawguy21

I once worked with a kid who put the old gas back in a mower he had just serviced, he told me 'down home' meaning the east coast they never threw it away as it was too expensive. ::)
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

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