router table build, what do I want?

[Crusarius]

So I have an old skil router table. it has served me well for a while but since the skil router decided to head south forever I started wondering what to do with the table. I do have a different router that fits in it but the more I use it the more I do not like the table.

If you guys had unlimited funds what would you use to build the router table of your dreams.

Ok, there is a catch. I do not have unlimited funds, in fact I am currently not working, so that limits things just a little bit.


My ideas include:
-convertible table that can be horizontal or vertical. Not really sure if I need this option or not. it could be kool but if I build a good solid tall fence it may not matter.
-ROUTER LIFT!!!! this is a must have since I always seem to be trying to do something crazy like adding a tongue and groove to 3/8" thick spalted maple.
-aluminum extrusions for finger boards and other attachments.


I really like how @21incher made his router table, just not sure I need to get that crazy with it. But now that I think about it, it would make some of the crazy stuff I do really easy. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=107428.0

so any help would be appreciated. I hate to dump a bunch of money into the wrong components. If I need to buy another router to match, I am perfectly happy doing that since I am down to just 2 routers now.

[21incher]

One Item that I would  highly recommend after using  it is the Jessem lift (Incra sells the same lift with metal inserts).  It can accept any size router you may want to upgrade to in the future and has been trouble free. Being able to tweak a couple  thousandths is very useful for setting up cabinet door sets. Another  thing that I find helpful  is having a  place to store bits. They no longer get thrown aside and end up in random bins.  Woodpecker makes nice extrusions for fences. One item I still have  to build is a power feeder. Trying  to  run long molding by hand is a pita. Do a build thread.  

[Crusarius]

After your build, I am not sure I should do one  I am not expecting it to be nearly as glorious. But I do have some very crazy ideas just incorporating it into the top of an existing cabinet I have.

[Crusarius]

Why did you end up choosing the jessem over the others?

[21incher]

I went with  that one because  of the construction and it was able to handle the size and weight  of the 3 1/2 hp Milwaukee router I used (many others only go up to 3.16 diameter routers and the Milwaukee is 3.2 diameter) . It was also rugged enough to easily  be motorized with only a couple simple parts. Plus it is adjustable for screw wear and the price was affordable. I had to mod the saw stop top slightly though to mount it.  If you're going  to take the time to build something  go wild and be sure you build exactly what you want. A good router table or shaper is one of the most important tools in a wood shop when you start building cabinets and doors. 

[Crusarius]

well I guess the first thing I need to do then is decide what I want the top to be made of. right now I am thinking about using MDF. also contemplating picking up a countertop from a seconds place and cutting that to the size I want. Plenty of plastic laminate tops for pretty cheap. If I go with the cabinet I already have and just add to it I have a hickory top on it and not sure of the flatness.

[Crusarius]

hmm so the dewalt 618 has some poor reviews on amazon. seems the router is not designed well for router tables. Apparently the armatures like to short out. same thing that happened with my skil. Wonder what other options I have for routers. I really like that jessem lift. The only thing I saw with a different lift that would be nice is course and fine adjust. not sure if it is necessary or not.

amazon has the jessum lift 2 for $215. seems pretty reasonable. 

Bosch 1617 looks nice but once again bunch of bad reviews.

I have no idea where I should be going or looking for a decent router.

[metalspinner]

I also have a Jesem lift. I've had it for about 15 years, so its one of their first. But it still performs great!

For the top, I would suggest a plastic laminate on Baltic birch. The BB is reliably flat and should stay that way.

Also, a cabinet style base with some drawers and locking casters is handy.

[21incher]

The Jessem 2 is not as heavy duty a lift and be sure it fits the router you go with along with future upgrades. I have the Bosch 1617 and it really struggles with  larger bits. It's  great for handheld work though and they last forever.  
For any laminated top laminate  both sides for maximum resistance to warpage and moisture from humidity. MDF and particleboard will sag over time if you don't box beam it or laminate multiple layers. I agree  with  metal spinner that Baltic birch  is a good option and many use phenolic also.
Don't  scrimp on the top because it will always affect the accuracy of your cuts. 
Home Depot usually has decent  prices on routers. There  are also a couple available with remote speed control these days.

[firefighter ontheside]

I bought the Triton 3 horse router which can be used without a separate lift.  You can change bits above the top with a handle that you place thru the top.  It's an expensive router bit in total I paid less than motor and lift would have been.

My table is made from 2 layers of mdf and then wrapped with oak.  Then I laminated it with a piece of formica.  Works great.  I built the fence with plywood for the structure and some hdpe for the faces on the front.  Definitely you want to build dust collection into the cabinet and the fence.

 

 

[Crusarius]

That looks nice. I a guessing the boards slide real nice along all the surfaces?

[firefighter ontheside]

Thanks.  Yes it's all very slippery.

[Crusarius]

have any of you guys ever found a need to angle the table or fence? I can't think of to many times I would want to do it but wondering if I should try to build it in?

[samandothers]

I have a Porter Cable in my table it does a good job for me though I change bits from the bottom.  It is mounted in a Jessem lift and together have performed well.  

[Crusarius]

I keep thinking about the easiest way to adjust and change bits. It would be great to not have to remove it from the table but it also would not be hard to build a quick disconnect to make removal and reinstall easy. I could even add something to clamp it in the vice so I don't have to try to hold it while changing the bit.

I guess the perfect router table will be very smooth slippery surface and fence with easy adjust bit height and fence location. With plenty of t-track for feather boards, guides, or auto feeders. 

Last night I was thinking about the fence and I noticed what I felt was a lot of tables that had wasted space behind the bit. Then I realized if I want to use the table to do dados in the center of a panel I will need a good size table to support the work piece to do that.

Oh so many ways to over engineer a simple router table

[Texas Ranger]

When I was building doors I laid a router into the 4x8 table.





I later added grooves for vacuum attachment, rails, clamps, etc.

[firefighter ontheside]

I've never felt the need to angle my fence, but it is possible to customize some trim pieces by angling the fence to change the way the bit contacts the stock.

Most of the time the fence is used right in line with the bit, but as you say, for dados far in from the edge you can slide the fence back.  I prefer to do dados like that on my table saw, unless I need them to be stopped and that's very rare for me.  

Another thing to think about is a coping sled that works with your table and fence to be able to do the ends of rails for rail and stile doors.  I made mine and it works great.

[Crusarius]

Texas ranger, I have a cabinet with a decent benchtop I am very tempted to do exactly what you did. Did you set that in the center of the table or off to the edge? do you find it gets in the way and is a pain?

I have what I like to call FSD (Flat Space Disorder) if there is a flat space in my shop I must cover it with a pile of something. SO any clear space on a table doesn;t typically last long.

[btulloh]

It's good to collect ideas and do some pre-planning like you're doing. Router tables tend to evolve to suit the purpose, the space, and the main use of the individual. Many times, a quickly built, special purpose table gets fabbed up for special project or purpose. 

You never really know what your ideal router table is until you've used the first one for a while. Having a couple is worthwhile, such as one in the table saw and then a dedicated stand alone version. A nice general purpose do-all design is good for many things and there are plenty of examples out there today, both shop-built and commercial. 

The simplest router table i ever built was a single piece of baltic birch with a hole for the bit, three mounting holes, and a piece of 1x3 held with a couple c-clamps. Not elegant or complicated but it suited the purpose and took 15 minutes to build.

Good luck with your research and your router table. 

[Crusarius]

btulloh, my first router table was a piece of 3/4" particle board with plastic laminate on one side. It was actually something I went dumpster diving to retrieve  I plunged a 3/4" hole through it since that is the size I needed. Same deal as yours. I still use it occasionally.

feature creep in my life is very dangerous. My first sawmill build was a simple portable sawmill that evolved into a 48" diameter cutting monster with a 24' bed. Now I can run two blade lengths simply by moving a T bolt to a different hole and adding a tensioner extension.

I usually way over think simple things, but that is how I get the best I can out of what I have. I am really excited to decide what I need and start building the table. I am hoping that some of my ideas will be exciting not only for me but whoever sees them.

[btulloh]

Looking forward to it.