Chainsaw sharpening

[Wlmedley]

I guess old age is catching up with me.I have owned a chainsaw since my mother bought me a small Poulan when I was 14 years old.I learned how to sharpen it and keep it running.I've had several saws since then and never had a problem keeping them cutting straight.My current saw is a husky 372 that I've had many years started cutting crooked.Chain about 1/2 worn out.Although I always keep a new chain I was to stubborn to put it on.I tried sharpening side that was cutting slow.Didn't help.Amazon somehow knows what I am interested in and a Oregon sharpening kit showed up on my IPad.It was only 18 dollars so I took a chance.Tried it out today and the results were excellent.Stuck saw in a white oak log and cut perfectly straight.Don't know if I can't see anymore or to weak to hold file at right angle but this cheap little kit really helped me.

[DHansen]

The kit in the red roll pouch?

[Wlmedley]

That's the one  :laugh:

[Walnut Beast]

A cordless Dremel with the angle guide and stones works amazing. Take a marker and put a dot where I start and go 

 

[sawguy21]

The Oregon sharpening kit is a great tool, it helped me cure some bad habits. ;D

[sablatnic]

When I started having problems, I bought a pair of 3$ glasses - helped immensely. 
Now I have several pairs of different strengths lying where I need them.

[Spike60]

My sharpening skills seem greatly enhanced since last week's cataract surgery.

[axeman2021]

I agree the cataract surgery surly will help, also i found a lot has to do with how well you are able to hold the flile keeping at the corect angle is important.

I have had great luck using a Stihl 2&1 system.

[kantuckid]

Unless I hit a rock, I tend to file freehand 3-4 times then use my Jolly, Italian elec shop sharpener to spec the chains back to spot on. 
When I was building our log home, circa 1979, my saw had to be sharp to build with and I used the round stones in a guide which worked OK, but they do glaze fairly easy given they are so small. My shop sharpener I use a diamond grinding wheel dresser as it also loads a bit from oil off the chain. Chain files do vary in their ability to satisfy me, some are pricey enough, come from places you'd think made the best ones, etc., but just don't cut well, others I like a lot. Hard to judge one until you pick it up and file. 
If you remember Herter's who sold gun related items years ago, I have a jeweler's file set from them that exceeds my Swiss jewelers file set.
 

[WV Sawmiller]

   I use the 12V dremel tool type sharpener made by Oregon. Sthil makes a good one but Oregon is better. Sthil requires use of their special thread stones while Oregon uses any stone, even those from Sthil. The biggest plus for Oregon is the switch is on the side of the tool and allows for one handed operation. On the Sthil the switch is in the cord so you have to hold with one hand and turn it on and off with the other. They both have a little angle guide on the tool and you just touch each tooth from left to right as appropriate. A couple of seconds then move to the next tooth. It works great in the woods. When the chain gets dull or you nick a rock or such you just hook to your truck or ATV and sharpen the chain on the saw.

[Wlmedley]

Wondering how much the stones are and how long they last.Was sharpening my bandsaw blades with a Dremal but was lucky to get one band sharpened per stone and stone was about $5.00.

[Walnut Beast]

  I use the 12V dremel tool type sharpener made by Oregon. Sthil makes a good one but Oregon is better. Sthil requires use of their special thread stones while Oregon uses any stone, even those from Sthil. The biggest plus for Oregon is the switch is on the side of the tool and allows for one handed operation. On the Sthil the switch is in the cord so you have to hold with one hand and turn it on and off with the other. They both have a little angle guide on the tool and you just touch each tooth from left to right as appropriate. A couple of seconds then move to the next tooth. It works great in the woods. When the chain gets dull or you nick a rock or such you just hook to your truck or ATV and sharpen the chain on the saw.

Absolutely! I bet you wouldn't go back to a hand file

[Walnut Beast]

Wondering how much the stones are and how long they last.Was sharpening my bandsaw blades with a Dremal but was lucky to get one band sharpened per stone and stone was about $5.00.

The Dremel pack is 6 bucks for three different sizes in one pack. They seem to last quite awhile 

[Wlmedley]

Wondering how much the stones are and how long they last.Was sharpening my bandsaw blades with a Dremal but was lucky to get one band sharpened per stone and stone was about $5.00.

The Dremel pack is 6 bucks for three different sizes in one pack. They seem to last quite awhile

Thanks for the information.I'll check about getting some.

[Walnut Beast]

Wondering how much the stones are and how long they last.Was sharpening my bandsaw blades with a Dremal but was lucky to get one band sharpened per stone and stone was about $5.00.

The Dremel pack is 6 bucks for three different sizes in one pack. They seem to last quite awhile

Thanks for the information.I'll check about getting some.

 

[moodnacreek]

While I don't have the patience for all the chainsaw filing toys and still file by eye I must say you can't beat a jig for accuracy.

[hedgerow]

For me I just change chains and take them back to the shop and use the grinder. I don't seem to have the patience for filing. When FIL was still alive he could file free hand like no other. Have one buddy that uses the 12V Dremel and that works well for him. One of my firewood helpers moved to a acreage 10 or 12 years ago and I give him a 041 Stihl and a 2 in 1 file sharpener and it really like it. He had never sharpen a chain prior to having it. 

[WV Sawmiller]

  I think a pack of 3 stones is $5-$6 and I get 10-12 sharpenings of my 84 tooth chain (42 teeth per to sharpen) out of each stone.

  I was never very good with a file and always sharpened one side more than the other, even with the guide, so my saw would start to curve in the cut. Using the guide on the tool  I just touch each tooth a couple of seconds and move to the next tooth and the chain cuts well and straight every time. I nearly wear the teeth off a chain before I use up the stone.

  I find it is much faster and easier to just sharpen the chain on the bar than swapping out with a newly sharpened chain.

   I have not tried the diamond tipped stones yet but I bet they are the cat's meow.

[Al_Smith]

The only time I use a "Dremel " type is on a rocked chain .On that it makes quick work of a damaged cutter I must say .Everybody with a file finds a method that best suites them which can vary .I go over the top ,left,right, left etc .Some do all the rights then all the lefts .Whatever works .One guy on here sits the saw on his lap and seems to do good that way .I get the same results, on a log, in a vise or on the tail gate of a pick up truck . Old school works for me .

[rusticretreater]

I wrestled with various methods and finally settled on one.  First I will simply file sharpen a new chain a few times until it starts to underperform.  Then I use a motorized chainsaw sharpener to put a new edge on the tooth and gullet.  This restores the tooth angle and removes chipped edges.  Following that I use the Husq file tool that has the tooth file and the raker file in one set(2 in 1) and give it a few strokes pulling up slightly on the last stroke or two to put a hook on the tooth.  I do turn the saw around when doing the second set of teeth to keep my strokes on left and right teeth consistent. I also tend to rotate the file to keep it from loading up while filing.

[Big_eddy]

They are not for everyone, but I use the Husky guide almost exclusively. Keeps the angles and depth consistent. I have an Oregon chain grinder, but can't remember the last time I ground a chain with it. We cut 75 cord of firewood a year and I usually sharpen each tank. 
Very occasionally I will free file at the pile if I hit some grit on a log and don't want to walk back to the shop to sharpen in the vise.

I got 78 cord out of the chain pictured. 2-3 more sharpenings after that picture was taken.


 

[Wlmedley]

That's what I like to see.Looks like you got your money's worth out of that chain  :laugh:

[Al_Smith]

FWIW when the tip of the cutter is almost to the point of the last rivet is the fastest that chain will cut .

[moodnacreek]

I also file every fill up even if it is just one stroke per tooth.

[Walnut Beast]

I got a Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener but they didn't have one for the 404 chain so I found these guys. It's made in Germany 🇩🇪. And may be the same company. They have various sizes and a bar dressing stone that I have on the way that looks to be pretty nice and on sale. They also carry some interesting diesel and hydraulic additives for keeping them dry and contaminated hydraulic problems

https://centerlinedistribution.com/pferd-chain-saw-accessories/cs-x-chain-sharp-7-32-for-404-chain-with-free-replacement-files/

 

 

[DHansen]

Any photos of the Guide Bar Edge Shaper?   The 2-1 Chain file does look like the Stihl version.

[Old Greenhorn]

Pferd came up with the original design and Stihl has a license agreement to sell them with their own colors, it's the same tool. but Pferd may have more variety available than Stihl. The bar dressing tool is pretty standard, had one for years and it works well. A short file section in a squaring block. Which reminds me, I should look at my bars and see if any are due for dressing, it's winter after all.

[Andries]

Any photos of the Guide Bar Edge Shaper? 

 


 
Chainsaw milling with a long bar and  a Gransberg type of guide led me to use this bar dresser a dozen years ago. It works well, is simple and easy to use.
.
How do you know that you need to use one? Ever slice your thumb open on a rolled-over bottom edge of the bar? This dresser squares up the edges of the bar - just like getting a good sharpening done on your CCM Tacks. (glaciated people joke) 😁

[Walnut Beast]

Thanks for the pictures! That bar dresser is on sale at the place I got mine for 27 and some change and free shipping.  Baileys has it for like 45 bucks

[Magicman]

Stihl has a license agreement to sell them with their own colors, it's the same tool. but Pferd may have more variety available than Stihl.

Just be aware that a 7/32" file will not fit into a 13/64" Stihl 2-1.  My Stihl dealer does not carry a Stihl 2-1 that will accept a 7/32" file.

My Stihl chains are 13/64" from the factory, not 7/32".  Of course after the first 7/32" filing they are now 7/32".

[Walnut Beast]

That company has all the bases covered on all the different sizes with different 2 in 1 tools for all different sizes 

[Magicman]

but Pferd may have more variety available than Stihl.

Which is what he said.   :P

[lxskllr]

My dresser is Oregon branded, but it's pretty clearly made by Pferd.

I like the 13/64 for a file. Gives a little more leeway for adjustment, and fits better when the tooth gets small.

[Sod saw]

.


When I touch up a chain, I don't bother marking the chain where I start filing.  I just start where the master link is and when it comes around, I know to change sides with the file till that master link comes around again then I'm done.   Takes me longer to do it that than explain it.  Yup, I'm slow with the file.


.

[Seachaser]

I usually file by hand. Occasionally use the Pferd to get the rakers down. Damaged chains goes to my dealer and he sharpens with a machine while I wait. My dealer is less than two miles away.  For those of you that like the Dremel, try the Milwaukee 12v. Hardly pick up my Dremel since I got it. 

[Magicman]

If I am on a sawmilling job and the chain dulls, I swap it for a sharp chain and keep working.  To stop and sharpen would idle my customer and/or tailgunners which would be unacceptable.  Those dull chains go to my Stihl dealer for resharpening @$5 each.  If there are several on a job, I make a line item on my invoice for chain resharpening.  During normal circumstances, I touch the chain up during my lunch break.  I keep about a dozen chains in rotation.

I have a Timberline sharpener but the Stihl/Pferd 2-1 is my go-to.

[barbender]

I bought one of the Milwaukee 12 volt rotary tools, mostly for touching up chains on my firewood processor. It is hard to get a file on it and make a stroke, where the rotary tool makes quick work of it. Since I have it, I use it on my chainsaw chains all the time, too. Rocked chains or ones that need trued up go to the bench grinder.

[Walnut Beast]

Pretty impressed with the excellent prices, fast free shipping, free files and free fuel saver with my other goodies from Centerline. I'm going to try a few of their fuel and hydraulic snakes or whatever you would call them. The one I got says it's good for up to two years. 

 

 

[DHansen]

The Pfred here at the local saw shop is $44.00 US.  The Stihl branded one is $33.00 US.  I think the Stihl dealer is discounting the price or was still marked with last year's price.   

[teakwood]

To stop and sharpen would idle my customer and/or tailgunners which would be unacceptable. 

I sharp a 20" chain with the 2in1 faster than swapping out the chain. it's hand down the best sharping tool IMO

[Walnut Beast]

To me it's faster to sharpen the chain than jacking around putting another one on.

[Magicman]

I understand, but in my situation I am using my chainsaw at the sawmill to extract foreign metal so it's not just a chain that needs touching up.  I too have the 2-1 sharpener and regularly use it.

Yesterday I hit deck screws twice so sharpening that chain would sorta be a recovery effort.  My quickest option, by far, was to swap the chain and keep on keeping on. 

[Skeans1]

To stop and sharpen would idle my customer and/or tailgunners which would be unacceptable.  

I sharp a 20" chain with the 2in1 faster than swapping out the chain. it's hand down the best sharping tool IMO

To me it's faster to sharpen the chain than jacking around putting another one on.

I've heard for years guys say that so I timed myself one day swapping a chain in the brush it takes under 2.5 minutes on a 36 including adjusting, can you hand file both sides that fast and be accurate?

[DHansen]

I was looking at Walnut Beast photos of his new bar dresser tool.  I noticed the tool has changed slightly.  His does look like the file is held in place by hand presser on the handle verses a set screw and knob.   Any pros or cons?   

As to sharpen the chain verses replace the chain, I think having the option and ability to do either or and know when one verses the other is the better option.  We all have to make that decision on our own based on the situation.  The situation and circumstance will dictate our action.  

[Walnut Beast]

To stop and sharpen would idle my customer and/or tailgunners which would be unacceptable.  

I sharp a 20" chain with the 2in1 faster than swapping out the chain. it's hand down the best sharping tool IMO

To me it's faster to sharpen the chain than jacking around putting another one on.

I've heard for years guys say that so I timed myself one day swapping a chain in the brush it takes under 2.5 minutes on a 36 including adjusting, can you hand file both sides that fast and be accurate?

I understand that on longer stuff but are you swapping a 25" or a 28" When you do take them off figure all the time getting them done. Is a few more minutes going to devastate the whole operation. Seems like most loggers are sharpening

[Walnut Beast]

It will be interesting with the 2 in 1 file. But when I was sharpening with the Dremel I was throwing big chips all the time and never touched the rakers

[Skeans1]

@Walnut Beast 


Time yourself sometime and see how long it takes you to go around the 24 or 28 it might surprise you. Cutting production time is money so is saving out wood so having stuff be predictable is a must for me. Well the cover is off I can clean out the clutch cover real quick to help with heat. At the end of the day do I gain much? Maybe another stick on the ground that's bucked which could be the difference in the number of loads out that day.

As far as dropping the rakers vs motif you're pushing at all on the handle bar those rakers need dropped the saw should self feed into the cut. Most of my chains I actually have to slightly hold them back a little the couple of cuts so that as they dull they cut great as I get tired throughout the day.