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Up and down motor help please

Started by richard boyd, February 11, 2016, 05:57:03 PM

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Peter Drouin

Don't you have 2, The third one  smiley_headscratch Is that the one on the shaft that goes to the gearbox? I don't remember [old timers]

Be sure you look at the things Mr Parsons talked about, He works on the mills every day. smiley_scholar smiley_smash smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

bkaimwood

I've heard of many issues not being resolved after some part replacement, and the phrase "can't be that, its been replaced". NEVER assume that any component is good based upon the the fact that you just replaced it. Most of us have, or know someone who has, been burned with a new bad/defective part. I've lost track of counting new bad parts on both my fingers and toes. This thread is moving along nicely, and in a good direction, so this post is just hopefully a good addition to aiding someone's future diagnostics, and saving someone from assumption. Hopefully your mill issues are resolved shortly. Like many have said, poor connections are a big deal, an undersized motor is definitely a concern...
bk

richard boyd

With this being a new motor with maybe 4,000 board foot sawed how would brushes be worn out? I know I have to do a lot of up and down with the motor mainly because { no set works } I use the rule scale and can't hit the mark first or second or third time. LOL   As far a sprockets there is 4 of them because mill has 2 lift chains.Again thanks for the help.

Cazzhrdwd

I had the same problem with a new up down motor. It wasn't getting hot but it did have some binding issues, only happened a handful of times.

I've had more problems with the fingers on the drum switches breaking off. You couldn't see it because just a small amount would still be attached where they screw into the switch. They seem to get a crack where they attach which effects current.
96 Woodmizer LT40Super  Woodmizer 5 head moulder

paul case

Quote from: pineywoods on February 11, 2016, 10:28:34 PM
Check the lube level in the up/down gearbox. That's a worm drive, the contact point between the 2 gears needs to be immersed in oil, just splashing some oil on the gears is not enough. A steel worm running on a brass gear will bind up if run dry.
Even if this isn't the problem check lube level in that box anyway. My mills had a clear plastic plug(for a sight guage I guess) that both were broken off when my box seized up. The plugs were at the bottom of the box on the back side so you couldn't see them. I had to go thru the box on one  mill and change all the bearings and seals.

My guess is the motor is your problem. That bigger motor upgrade will help a lot.
PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Magicman

The only problem that I have ever had with up/down was the gearbox.  I had to replace both bearings.  I then overfilled the gearbox with lube.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Ga Mtn Man

Magicman, did you "overfill" intentionally just to be sure?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Magicman

Yes, because the way the gearbox is designed, there is no way for the lube to get to the shaft bearings.  It is slow speed so overfilling is not an issue.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Chuck White

Quote from: paul case on February 13, 2016, 07:54:27 AM
Quote from: pineywoods on February 11, 2016, 10:28:34 PM
Check the lube level in the up/down gearbox. That's a worm drive, the contact point between the 2 gears needs to be immersed in oil, just splashing some oil on the gears is not enough. A steel worm running on a brass gear will bind up if run dry.
Even if this isn't the problem check lube level in that box anyway. My mills had a clear plastic plug(for a sight guage I guess) that both were broken off when my box seized up. The plugs were at the bottom of the box on the back side so you couldn't see them. I had to go thru the box on one  mill and change all the bearings and seals.

My guess is the motor is your problem. That bigger motor upgrade will help a lot.
PC


Absolutely!

I was going through brushes in my up/dn motor at a faster rate than I was happy with, so I ordered the bigger motor/gearbox assembly and installed it in 2014.

Used it 2 years, no issues!

It included the motor, bracket, gearbox, pulleys, belt, shaft and sprockets. The Part # is A11585

It is the same motor as used in the newer mills.

That upgrade was money well spent!

Makes for some close quarters putting it in place, but it will fit nicely!

NOTE:  Wood-Mizer now calls for the gearbox to be filled rather than just half full or so.

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

richard boyd

Gear box is full of ATF. That's what I'm doing is upgrading to the newer motor and pulleys. The original motor was stolen off of mill before I bought it and was replaced but have no idle of the weight so could be to heavy also. WM told me to not go over 125 pounds on new motor but this motor was already on it so I left it on mill.

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