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Tree felling tools Norwood Timbertool & Conyfair Rattle Wedge

Started by tbrickner, April 08, 2009, 09:19:30 PM

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beenthere

Expensive, but looks like a clever idea.

Maybe instead, a half-dozen large diam. lag bolts and a socket/driver would worm it's way into a back-cut to provide lift (that is if carrying a few wedges along doesn't suffice  :) ).
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

timber tramp

  Description says that rattle wedge weighs 3 pounds, that's enough to turn me off.  :) TT
Cause every good story needs a villan!

Reddog


Stephen Alford

Hey all ; use the plastic ones to protect the saw and put the comehither wedge in the middle.  :)

logon

oakwood productions

I think that Rocky's technique is the answer for you. It sounds a little unorthodox but it will work .  Backcut first then wedge then create your face cut.

beenthere

I've used Rocky's technique quite a bit on small diam (8-14") ash trees this last week.
It works well.. as long as one doesn't make the first cut (backcut) deeper than what the wedge needs to have a firm seat.  ::) ::)

On one I cut too deep, and then when making the face cut, the tree leaned and pinched the bar. :o :o Turned out ok, but getting that tree to set back onto the wedges was a bit of a trick. So the lesson learned was just enough backcut to get a wedge set. Then the face notch, then a plunge cut to set up the hinge, then cut back out towards the first 'backcut'. Felt I had good control and placement of the tree. Used it when the actual lean of tall, small diam ash trees was real difficult to figure out.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Chelsea Tree

I use a Rattle Wedge but only up in the tree and mainly to keep the saw from getting pinched by a slight back lean.

It is a slick little piece, it's expensive but it is one of those tools that I do find handy to have in the ol' trick bag.

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