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Felling wedge pouch and hammer?

Started by Dieseltwitch, June 22, 2016, 10:20:36 PM

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Dieseltwitch

Im looking for a good pouch to carry felling wedges. All the ones i can find carry one of each size. I really need one small wedge, two mid sized wedges and one long wedge. Any one know of one that would work for this?

Also what hammers are people using. I tried using a sledge but its not balanced very well and when its in a hammer ring it tries to flip over and fall out.

Ljohnsaw

Would a carpenter's nail pouch be too big?  Perhaps find one that is just about right and go to a shoe repair or a saddle maker and have them do some extra sewing on the leather to customize it.  For a hammer, how about a carpenter's claw hammer.  Has straighter claw and a long handle.  Usually 20 oz so should be adequate.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

RHP Logging

I modified a carpenters pouch.  And the hammer I'm using is a 4 lb axe.  When you've got a hard back leaner good luck with anything less.
Buckin in the woods

Plankton

Go to a carpenter supply place and look through the different tool pouches/belts. They make all sorts of different sizes and shapes. When I did framing a lot of the guys wore those full harness belts with shoulder straps there was a pouch on them for a drill I think that I always thought would be perfect for wedges.

I reccomended skipping the hammer and using an axe. Some backleaners are hard drivers even with a 4 lb axe nevermind a hammer. I use a council tools rafting axe I believe it's called, I get mine from a local hand tool dealer but you could probably find them online.

thenorthman

Bailey's has a leather wedge pouch, I get 5 wedges in mine, 1 8" 2 10"s and 2 12"s plus a saw wrench.

As for a beatin device get an axe, hammer are for putting wood up, axes are for putting wood down. Mostly use a 3.5# craftsmen, but have a 5# council on deck if needed.

either tuck the axe into my belt, or recently got an aluminium axe scabbard from Grizzly, keeps the axe head down centered on my back, works pretty good, forget its there sometimes even.

I have pics but this site is notoriously hard to post pics from and I'm already late...
well that didn't work

treeslayer2003

two 10s in each back pocket and a 5lb rafting axe. any thing less and i really didn't need to wedge it.

mad murdock

Grizzly peak makes aluminum scabbards for axes/wedges/saws and a suspension system that a lot of fallers in the PNW use. Top shelf equipment.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

enigmaT120

Quote from: thenorthman on June 23, 2016, 08:52:21 AM
either tuck the axe into my belt, or recently got an aluminium axe scabbard from Grizzly, keeps the axe head down centered on my back, works pretty good, forget its there sometimes even.

I wonder how much time I would spend looking for my axe if I did that!

Ed Miller
Falls City, Or

danbuendgen

I am a fan of the Grizzly Peak products for wedge holder and axe scabbard, but I don't use a axe I use a hammer, I ordered the largest axe scabbard and pried it open more and it fits a 6 pound sledge well. I use 2 12" wedges. I cut about 6" off the sledge handle and it works well for me. The sledge works better for driving wedges compared to a axe, and the wedges tend to hold up longer. The axe eats up the end of the wedge much faster the a hammer does. I rarely get pinched anymore, so I don't see the need for a axe for chopping myself out of a cut. I use a Alice (military style) belt and suspenders, got the belt and suspenders used at Amazon.com for under $20. Just my .02
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

treeslayer2003

Quote from: danbuendgen on June 23, 2016, 05:52:41 PM
I am a fan of the Grizzly Peak products for wedge holder and axe scabbard, but I don't use a axe I use a hammer, I ordered the largest axe scabbard and pried it open more and it fits a 6 pound sledge well. I use 2 12" wedges. I cut about 6" off the sledge handle and it works well for me. The sledge works better for driving wedges compared to a axe, and the wedges tend to hold up longer. The axe eats up the end of the wedge much faster the a hammer does. I rarely get pinched anymore, so I don't see the need for a axe for chopping myself out of a cut. I use a Alice (military style) belt and suspenders, got the belt and suspenders used at Amazon.com for under $20. Just my .02
a true rafting pattern is almost like a hammer on the beater end. plus i can stick the axe in a nearby scrub tree.

RHP Logging

This is why I carry an axe.  From this morning. Took 2-3 minutes to chop out.  Would have been a 20 minute hike out to the truck and back for a new bar.  It doesn't happen a lot that I need to chop out but it happens.



 

This is why it sat down immediately.  Ugly little bugger.  It was a small job so I kinda had to cut everything.  This tree had no outward sign it was going to be like that.  The rest of the job cut out nice. Still swung her in the hole tho!



 
Buckin in the woods

grassfed



This is what I use. It is a 3lb cross peen hammer with a 16 inch handle. The strange looking grip works really well for me.

It has a big enough diameter that it is comfortable in my hand and those rings hang on to my fingers so I don't have to grip extra hard even when I am swinging hard and my gloves are icy.

Most of the time I use it one handed but I can swing it 2 handed for stubborn trees.

If I drive my wedge all the way in I flip it around and use the wedge side of the hammer to drive the wedge 2 inches more inside the back cut.

It will flip out but the rings stop it from falling all the way out. One thing that you can do is make a "donut" out of foam (I have used pipe insulation and electrical tape) tape the donut around the handle a 1/4 inch below the head. The foam will catch on the ring before the hammer flips out and you can still pull the hammer out and put it back in if you don't make the doughnut too big.
Mike

Plankton

Plus if you don't have an axe what are you going to use to attempt to cut skidder mainline with, only to cut yourself a bunch and put more dents in said axe then the cable! On second thought maybe I should switch to a hammer...

thenorthman

Rarely if ever get pinched bad falling (unless I'm torching off the hinge wood but thats different) its bucking that causes the most pinches, and where the axe comes in.

Also, cleaning bark off these thick skinned trees is hard on a chain, not that it ever stops me, but its something the axe is supposed to be for.

or you can use the axe as a bobber, slip it into the back cut and watch the handle start to fall, just be careful not to catch yer chain with it.

And cleaning out the face on these big ole trees, both wacking the chunk free or getting in and prying a little bit, to slipping the blade into the bottom cut to allow the chunk to fall out.
well that didn't work

thenorthman

and another thing ;D

taking the time to find a proper falling axe one with a square pole, instead of round will make your wedges last longer.

and yet another thing...

whacking stacked wedges with a fat faced hammer is kinda tough, while the slim axe slips right in there and gets the job done.
well that didn't work

BargeMonkey

 I used to be a fan of the long handle Estwing axes, not the same quality they used to be.  >:(  I carry a 5lb splitting axe and a couple wedges in the skidder. Sharp axe has saved me quite a few times chopping out or freeing a pinched saw. "Most" people think your crazy saying you can cut skidder cable with an axe but I've done it a few times in a pinch, had an employee yrs ago claim it couldn't be done after he kept yanking the cable off my 440D which leaves a ragged end which needs to be cut before you re-thread it in. 

thenorthman

While yes it is possible to cut cable with an axe, its more then a little dangerous and it ruins a perfectly good axe.

Granted for years I did the same thing...

Then I found a morse cable cutter, miles better, and safer, they come in a verity of sizes, think mines a #2 good for up to 3/4" keep it in the crummy along with an old cross peen hammer, couple few whacks and the cable is cut fairly clean, made a video of it awhile ago.  Plus the little one I have doesn't take up much room, about the size of sledge hammer head.

Its kinda long, and never mind the fat beardy guy... but here ya go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSeyw0_U97c
well that didn't work

thenorthman

wow.. awkward...

Works better on a stump, doesn't bounce as much... haven't had another break when I needed it for awhile. Been keeping the cut off saw on hand when the cable starts lookin iffy. That and better sourced cable doesn't break as often.

Anyway video goes on to start switching out replaceable ferule, but if memory serves it got to be a pain so I shut the vid off... never mind editing stuff that takes patience and more time then I care to spend.
well that didn't work

Dieseltwitch

Quote from: thenorthman on June 24, 2016, 12:08:08 AM
Then I found a morse cable cutter, miles better, and safer, they come in a verity of sizes, think mines a #2 good for up to 3/4" keep it in the crummy along with an old cross peen hammer, couple few whacks and the cable is cut fairly clean, made a video of it awhile ago.  Plus the little one I have doesn't take up much room, about the size of sledge hammer head.
That looks painful to use. I use the same m12 rotary tool with a small cut off disk to cut cable. Works really well. And a lot less hammering. I also use the rotary tool to sharpen my chains in the field.

Plankton

Those cable cutters are neat, I just found a super old school one in the corner of the shop now I'm not quite as excited to try it out ;)
You guys must have more patience then me I didn't even come close to doing anything to my cable with an axe. Of course I was trying to cut it off the winch drum.
I gave up and went the easy route, generator and anglegrinder.

grassfed

I keep a small Morse cable cutter in my tool bag in the skidder and my cross peen felling hammer works good with it; you just have to set it on something hard or you will drive it into the ground. BTW Labonville sells all of the Morse parts if anybody needs something.
Mike

treeslayer2003

hey Matt, i found those wedge ferrules last about 10 times longer than a knot. added benefit.

danbuendgen

Quote from: thenorthman on June 23, 2016, 09:18:49 PM
its bucking that causes the most pinches, and where the axe comes in.

That's what your wedge is for, cut the log half way or more and stick in a wedge the cut if you think you could get the bar pinched.

As for cutting skidder cable, when it the end starts to look worn, I cut it preemptively at the landing. That way I am not 1/2 mile or more out in the woods with a ripped cable. I always have my portable air compressor at the landing, and I just cut the cable with a wiz wheel. Very fast and accurate. Tie a new not, and cut off excess cable. Back to work very quickly this way.
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

thenorthman


[/quote]

That's what your wedge is for, cut the log half way or more and stick in a wedge the cut if you think you could get the bar pinched.
[/quote]
Well, these trees out here can be hard to judge the bind, 130-150' tall can do some weird things on the ground, mostly its the top that gets me...

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on June 24, 2016, 08:59:13 AM
hey Matt, i found those wedge ferrules last about 10 times longer than a knot. added benefit.

I keep a spare on hand so the change goes pretty quick most times, that vid took forever cause I broke it the day before and hadn't removed the other end, so had to peal one off, way easier with a vice at home.

Quote from: Plankton on June 24, 2016, 06:48:14 AM
Those cable cutters are neat, I just found a super old school one in the corner of the shop now I'm not quite as excited to try it out ;)
You guys must have more patience then me I didn't even come close to doing anything to my cable with an axe. Of course I was trying to cut it off the winch drum.
I gave up and went the easy route, generator and anglegrinder.

Axe not so good on the winch drum, but if you are dead set on using an axe to cut cable, mount the axe in a stump, usually by cutting a notch so the poll fits in snug, or use a wedge to hold it tight, then take a second axe or a soft faced hammer, set the cable over the axe and swing away, its fairly quick once set up, but hard on the axe, and a really good way to get bits of cast steel and high tensile wire stuck in soft bits like eyes, forearms, inner thigh, septum, throat... buddy of mine is mostly blind in one eye from doing this, with safety glasses on even.  Hence the cutter is nice cause you can keep the shrapnel pointed away from you, if any.
well that didn't work

Dieseltwitch

Quote from: Plankton on June 24, 2016, 06:48:14 AM
Those cable cutters are neat, I just found a super old school one in the corner of the shop now I'm not quite as excited to try it out ;)
You guys must have more patience then me I didn't even come close to doing anything to my cable with an axe. Of course I was trying to cut it off the winch drum.
I gave up and went the easy route, generator and anglegrinder.

Go get one of the Milwaukee M18 grinders. super useful for field work! and battery life is actually pretty good!

AlexHart

I stumbled on this handle kind of by happenstance ordering stuff from Baileys a couple years ago.   

I have a bunch of old axe heads I've kind of accumulated/inherited from grandfathers and such and I now have three of these put together.   Its my favorite axe (handle mostly... put whatever head you want/have on it) ever for driving wedges.   Feels more like a maul or baseball bat or something than a normal axe.    I've dug up a link in case anybody wanted to throw caution to the wind and splurge 13 dollars and 46 cents plus some shipping :) 

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Axes-Mauls/Replacement-Axe-Handles/Single-Bit-Axe-Replacement-Handles/Link-Seymour-27-Hickory-Replacement-Handle-for-Single-Bit-Axes-LK-124-19.axd

Item #: 15860  Link/Seymour 27" Hickory Replacement Handle for Single Bit Axes 

RHP Logging

Quote from: AlexHart on June 24, 2016, 10:56:45 PM
I stumbled on this handle kind of by happenstance ordering stuff from Baileys a couple years ago.   

I have a bunch of old axe heads I've kind of accumulated/inherited from grandfathers and such and I now have three of these put together.   Its my favorite axe (handle mostly... put whatever head you want/have on it) ever for driving wedges.   Feels more like a maul or baseball bat or something than a normal axe.    I've dug up a link in case anybody wanted to throw caution to the wind and splurge 13 dollars and 46 cents plus some shipping :) 

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Axes-Mauls/Replacement-Axe-Handles/Single-Bit-Axe-Replacement-Handles/Link-Seymour-27-Hickory-Replacement-Handle-for-Single-Bit-Axes-LK-124-19.axd

Item #: 15860  Link/Seymour 27" Hickory Replacement Handle for Single Bit Axes

Looks like a rafting handle.
Buckin in the woods

mills

When I'm cutting I wear a tool belt from Home Depot with suspenders attached and mix and match pouches. I normally carry two wedges, a tape, bar wrench, and a short handled four lb. sledge. I could never find an ax that would hold up to very much pounding.

Oh, and two chain saws.  :)

Plankton

Quote from: Dieseltwitch on June 24, 2016, 02:47:53 PM
Quote from: Plankton on June 24, 2016, 06:48:14 AM
Those cable cutters are neat, I just found a super old school one in the corner of the shop now I'm not quite as excited to try it out ;)
You guys must have more patience then me I didn't even come close to doing anything to my cable with an axe. Of course I was trying to cut it off the winch drum.
I gave up and went the easy route, generator and anglegrinder.

Go get one of the Milwaukee M18 grinders. super useful for field work! and battery life is actually pretty good!

Oh yeah definitly, it's on the list to buy I love the m18 stuff as far as battery tools go.

FirewoodFactory

I thought double bit axes were for cutting cables:  Sink axe into stump, pull cable over axe, hammer time.  I see no other use for them.  ;) 

Making your own pouch shouldn't be a big deal.  If you don't sew I bet you know someone who does.  Give them the stack of wedges you want to carry and set them loose on the problem.

I was never a professional faller but had similar kit for doing ironwork:  Bolt bag and wrench sheath.  I experimented with a couple bolt bag ideas but actually settled on a store bought carpenters' nail pouch and made a leather belt sheath for the wrench.  There are always choices.
I'm just a welder pretending to be a sawyer.

RHP Logging

Quote from: mills on June 25, 2016, 06:02:25 AM
When I'm cutting I wear a tool belt from Home Depot with suspenders attached and mix and match pouches. I normally carry two wedges, a tape, bar wrench, and a short handled four lb. sledge. I could never find an ax that would hold up to very much pounding.

Oh, and two chain saws.  :)

Are you using splitting wedges?
Buckin in the woods

mills

Are you using splitting wedges?

No, I carry the plastic Hard Head wedges, but I keep a steel splitting wedge in the skidder to use if I get in a bind. I can get by with the two for most of everything I cut, but will work around the ones that have to be pulled against a heavy lean until Dad or my son has time to run the skidder for me.

RHP Logging

Quote from: mills on June 27, 2016, 05:17:06 AM
Are you using splitting wedges?

No, I carry the plastic Hard Head wedges, but I keep a steel splitting wedge in the skidder to use if I get in a bind. I can get by with the two for most of everything I cut, but will work around the ones that have to be pulled against a heavy lean until Dad or my son has time to run the skidder for me.

I Asked because I've never heard of going through axes. Just trying to figure out what you would hit with them to cause them to not hold up.
Buckin in the woods

thenorthman

Quote from: mills on June 27, 2016, 05:17:06 AM
Are you using splitting wedges?

No, I carry the plastic Hard Head wedges, but I keep a steel splitting wedge in the skidder to use if I get in a bind. I can get by with the two for most of everything I cut, but will work around the ones that have to be pulled against a heavy lean until Dad or my son has time to run the skidder for me.

and that is why I don't use the hard head wedges, that and they are heavy.  Axes are not meant to be striking metal, the poll (the part that looks like a hammer face) is not hardened nor should it be hardened, its meant just to add weight, the fact that some of them  come in a handy flat face that happens to be good at smacking wedges is just a bonus, its also why most axes have a rounded poll, to dissuade folks from using them as hammers.

Many a good axe has been ruined by folks beating on steel wedges, railroad spikes, other axes, mauls etc.   
well that didn't work

treeslayer2003

Quote from: thenorthman on June 27, 2016, 09:17:44 PM
Quote from: mills on June 27, 2016, 05:17:06 AM
Are you using splitting wedges?

No, I carry the plastic Hard Head wedges, but I keep a steel splitting wedge in the skidder to use if I get in a bind. I can get by with the two for most of everything I cut, but will work around the ones that have to be pulled against a heavy lean until Dad or my son has time to run the skidder for me.

and that is why I don't use the hard head wedges, that and they are heavy.  Axes are not meant to be striking metal, the poll (the part that looks like a hammer face) is not hardened nor should it be hardened, its meant just to add weight, the fact that some of them  come in a handy flat face that happens to be good at smacking wedges is just a bonus, its also why most axes have a rounded poll, to dissuade folks from using them as hammers.

Many a good axe has been ruined by folks beating on steel wedges, railroad spikes, other axes, mauls etc.
i have some i found in the woods that are so misshapen, they can't be hung on a new handle of any size. the hole has been collapsed.

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