Has anybody made screw jacks for their woodmizer?

Dan_Shade · November 06, 2006, 08:18:06 PM

Dave, i may take you up on that at some time, too bad your 2 hours away or so!...

Actually, I think i'm about 2 hours from Opal....

I guess I'll keep my eye on woodmizer way and hopefully can jump onto some real woodmizer training. I installed the bibbyman-backstops and got the backstops all lined up the other day, but it's always scary adjusting things when it is all adjustable!

DR Buck · November 06, 2006, 08:31:53 PM

QuoteI think i'm about 2 hours from Opal....

I'm 4 minutes from Opal. That's 4 minutes in your direction.

QuoteI installed the bibbyman-backstops and got the backstops all lined up the other day, but it's always scary adjusting things when it is all adjustable!

Just make sure if their not exactly the same height, the one closest to you is the higher of the four. My last one is slightly higher than the other three. But not to worry, sooner or later I'll have it cut down to the same height! ;D ;D

Jeff · November 06, 2006, 08:39:56 PM

I only have 4 jacks total on my LT30

Dan_Shade · November 06, 2006, 09:07:27 PM

Quote from: DR_Buck on November 06, 2006, 08:31:53 PM
Just make sure if their not exactly the same height, the one closest to you is the higher of the four. My last one is slightly higher than the other three. But not to worry, sooner or later I'll have it cut down to the same height! ;D ;D

I adjusted them to very close to the same height. they were all wack-jawed, now the front one is just a hair higher...

I'll shoot you a PM sometime, Dave. are you off of 17? I haven't been through there for a while

SawDust_Studios · November 06, 2006, 09:24:46 PM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 05, 2006, 09:22:25 PM
I've found when on level ground, it's easy to setup, but when the ground's a bit uneven, it gets to be a hassle... do you guys carry 1/2" and 3/4" blocks to level the mill up when the legs need to be in a different spot to be level?

i've only moved my LT40 a few times, I guess I don't have the full hang of it yet.

Dan,

I agree with Tom, once you really get the hang of it, the woodmizer is very easy to set-up. Believe me, I thought the same thing several times, but didn't want to do too many mods to the mill I may regret later.

I found the BEST thing to carry is a set or even two of those RV blocks you can buy at Wal-Mart. They are about $30 but you can put them together like legos. When the ground is unlevel, we put them under the tires to get it close and if the jack needs some more support, we place them under it.

Now with the big diesel and all the extra weight, I've found it still a bit hard at times to get the mill up and down. The easiet thing is to take advantage of the mill weight on the head. I find that to get the pressure off of the inner jacks, I move the head to the opposite side, then use the farthest jack and lift it UP as its easier to lift than to let down. This puts the weight on that jack and allows adjustment of the inner, then you only have the outer jack to release.

I've thought about getting just two adjustable jacks and put one on each end of the mill to allow for them to lift those ends and adjust the inner ones.

Dave

SawDust_Studios · November 06, 2006, 09:32:09 PM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 06, 2006, 08:18:06 PM
I guess I'll keep my eye on woodmizer way and hopefully can jump onto some real woodmizer training. I installed the bibbyman-backstops and got the backstops all lined up the other day, but it's always scary adjusting things when it is all adjustable!

Dan,

I guess we should have spent a little more time on that ??? My fault, I'm so used to set-up and I use the tractor when I'm here, its habit. I don't want to speak for woodmizer, but I think since you bought the mill, woodmizer wants their owners to know the correct way to use it. I won't speak for Marty, but I bet if you would contact him in PA, likely, I'm sure you could set-up a time to get an some training. They may have a show or something in the near future. He has several open houses each year and he's very good at what he does.

Dave

Dan_Shade · November 06, 2006, 09:40:09 PM

Thanks, Dave. Don't worry about the setup issues, there's a lot to working a mill like this after you get it figured out! if I lived next door, it may be different

.

the worst thing with going to training up there is finding time, and getting there. but I may be able to squeeze something in if something is offered.

submarinesailor · November 07, 2006, 08:15:34 AM

Dave and Dan,

If you don't mind letting me join you, let me know if and/or when you guys are going to get together and I'll try to be there. I drive thru Opel going and coming to and from Syria (Madison County). Always stop and fill up at the East Coast station as they have the cheapest diesel fuel.

Bruce

jpgreen · November 07, 2006, 10:31:06 AM

Quote from: SawDust_Studios on November 06, 2006, 09:24:46 PM

I found the BEST thing to carry is a set or even two of those RV blocks you can buy at Wal-Mart. They are about $30 but you can put them together like legos. When the ground is unlevel, we put them under the tires to get it close and if the jack needs some more support, we place them under it.

I like that Idea. Quick and easy. Blocks can be a pain sometimes.

Jeff · November 07, 2006, 10:38:28 AM

Chet told me last night about is screw jacks. He has been getting ready to leave for his instructional classes so he can go to prison so missed this thread. ;D

Chet mounted bulldog trailer jacks on his Norwood and says he loves them. You know, the kind that mounts to the tongue of a trailer to dolly them down? He says he modified the handles some how so they were out of the way, but he simply cranks them down and says that he has no problem with the weight of the logs bothering them.

Burlkraft · November 07, 2006, 03:56:47 PM

I was just talkin' ta Brandon today and I'm takin' my mill in to get measured up fer some new stands...... ;D ;D ;D

Dan_Shade · November 07, 2006, 04:16:29 PM

the only problem with some trailer jacks is they can be wobbly...

I'm looking to see if I can adapt something like this to my mill, and not have to do any "damage": http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_6970_200155124_200155124

DR Buck · November 07, 2006, 06:12:24 PM

QuoteI'm looking to see if I can adapt something like this to my mill, and not have to do any "damage": http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_6970_200155124_200155124

If the outside dimension will fit into the current WM jack mounts it should be a drop in and easy to install. Only problem I see is finding the outside size of the jacks without buying one.

Dan_Shade · November 07, 2006, 06:24:52 PM

come on, Dave, have some faith! looks like the outside of the jack is 2.25" from my research, the woodmizer post is 2.5" (I think)

I'll stop by tractor supply and see if they have one, i'll have my trusty/rusty tape measure in my pocket!

Jeff · November 07, 2006, 07:37:55 PM

Last time into our tractor supply I could only find the round ones. Those are the shaky ones. I think the square ones would work great. If a guy could supplement the handle with a drive hut as well, a corless drill could level the thing in a hurry. I gotta look at that kind of thing due to my current limitations with my arms.

MartyParsons · November 08, 2006, 07:53:48 AM

Hello,
We are looking at doing a training seminar in Manassas, VA at Prince William County Fairgrounds. We can do a set up demonstration. If you have other training needs send me a e-mail and we will touch on them at the seminar.
Wood-Mizer does make a adjustable outrigger ( FAO) fine adjustable outrigger $ 129.00 each. it comes with a wrench. If you practice a little you do not need them. The guys above have some good points.
If you ever need training on safety or anything about the mill just call me and we can get together and work it out! I have mills here or bring your own.
Thanks to Dave for the kind comments.
Marty

jpgreen · November 08, 2006, 12:41:12 PM

Hey-

If you guys with the older "Non auto clutch" LT40's are still having sholder problems with operating the engage lever on your mill, I have a sure-fire fix (for the mill ;D).

My JP clutch works flawlessly, and near effortless to engage your drive. I'll probably just post some pics, so you can fix it.

Dan_Shade · November 08, 2006, 01:48:13 PM

Marty, what are the details on the training in Manassas?

customsawyer · November 12, 2006, 09:38:39 AM

If you all look at the pics. on Warren's post about what followed him home you can see one of the jacks that I installed on that mill.

SawDust_Studios · November 12, 2006, 06:20:23 PM

Quote from: jpgreen on November 07, 2006, 10:31:06 AM
I like that Idea. Quick and easy. Blocks can be a pain sometimes.

Yes, and they come in their own little carrying bag. They are brightly colored too, so you don't let them laying at the customers site as easy. They are VERY tough and can really make set-up easier.

woodhick · November 14, 2006, 03:30:18 AM

JP, sure would like to see some pics of the "JP" clutch.

hookhill · November 14, 2006, 07:54:25 AM

We just welded six trailer jacks on a Rake style mill. It works great. We just bring a few different thickness blocks with us to the job site and level it out in no time. Got the jacks on ebay. Made a deal offline with the seller and got six 2000lb jacks for $120 including shipping.

jpgreen · November 14, 2006, 11:50:34 AM

Ask and yee shall receive... I puttin' up a separate post on the JP Clutch.. 8)

Dan_Shade · November 14, 2006, 11:58:19 AM

one thing to bear in mind with a regular trailer jack is that there isn't too much holding it on the sides, most of the time a c-clip. Be careful with a mill held up entirely by trailer jacks, loading/flipping/turning could possibly cause some problems, probably more so where the frame is as high off the ground as a woodmizer is.