Blade Tooth Setting

[EZ]

Tom,
I ask my blade sharpener guy if he could sharpen a blade like the one I did, he has some kind of auto sharpener and said there was no setting for this kind of sharping. Right now I have sawn 1800 bf with this blade, without resharping. I wood like to find a setup to sharpen a blade with this angle I have on it before it breaks. Could you help me fine a sharpener that wood. Thanks
EZ

[Neil_B]

EZ,
check out the link below, I think that's what your looking for. I mentioned this one on page one of this post. I just ordered one and hopefully will show up next week. They have a listing of all their dealers, head office is Australia, for North America.
www.dinasaw.com.au

[Tom]

Yes,New Sawyer,  that is the company I was referring to.  Their MSA option is what I remember seeing on a video. This is the only small sharpener that I have ever seen that controls every position of the grinder head.

EZ, there are several band sawmill manufacturer's who are dealer for these grinders.  I know of no blade maintenance companies that advertise a service like this.

[ARKANSAWYER]

D,
 Yep!  As more set is put on the blade the more of the tooth sticking out from center.  When there is no set each tooth follows the one in front and takes a smaller bite of wood since the teeth in front keep it from biting too deep.  When you set the teeth apart it cuts in a different path then the tooth in front of it so it gets to bite more wood.  Still part of the tooth follows the path cut by the tooth in front of it and the out side half of the tooth cuts a new path.  As set increases more and more of the tooth is exposed.   If you have less spacing, say 3/4 instead of 7/8 or 1 inch then you have more teeth per foot of blade shareing the work and they have less stress per tooth but also have less bite so they may not remove as much wood per pass but make a smoother cut.  A 1 inch has a bigger bite and rougher finish and more gullet to remove the wood so may cut faster but the teeth will suffer greater wear.
   So if a tooth is sticking out from center it has a greater exposed cutting surface and it will be wearing more on the corner of the tooth.  On my blades there is a tooth bent up then down, straight and back up again.  So it is 2 5/8 inches from point to point that are facing the same way.  The raker tooth does not hardly ever wear since it follows the cutting edge of the teeth in front of it.  Look at your blade after you cut for a bit and you will notice that it is shinny on the points where it sticks out the farthest.
  More set is neede on soft woods so they do not pinch the blade and you have to have some set or your blade will bet very hot dragging through the wood.
  The article on hand saw blades was not in "Sawmill & Woodlot" but in "Timber Framing".
  My hydralics hold the stumps very good and I have not lost one yet in the hundards that I have sawn.  On some I have had to notch the bottom so that it would clamp good but the hydralics hold well.
ARKANSAWYER