augers for brace

jeepman · October 10, 2003, 07:32:34 PM

Does anyone know a good brand for bits? How about a source? I've got a few that belonged to my great-grandad (1890's models), but need a few more sizes and would prefer to not use heirlooms if I can help it. What I am looking for is tapered square shank with hardwood or softwood leadscrews and spurs. Thanks in advance.

Jim_Rogers · October 11, 2003, 07:30:22 AM

jeepman:
I searched threw several sites that sell tools, the only thing I could find, and they look good is at Woodcraft. Here is a link to the page where they are: Woodcraft auger bits

My blacksmith friend just stopped by with some more tools for sale and said he might have a source for bit brace bits, but it might take a week or so to get them.

What sizes are you looking for?

Jim

jeepman · October 11, 2003, 09:18:39 PM

That is a good looking set @ Woodcraft. I had seen them in the catalog. I think they stop at 1". Right now, I'm looking for 1",1 1/2", & 2". I did a little boring today and figured out that a T-auger is easier for me than a brace. If I can't find something similar to a Miller Falls machine, I have a plan on converting a small differential to a boring machine. I may have to resort to getting electricity.
Thanks Jim for the info.
Keep me posted on what the smithy finds.

Jim_Rogers · October 13, 2003, 08:04:58 AM

jeepman:
Two Sundays ago while driving threw Maine, I stopped at several antique shops. They each had some T-auger bits for sale, but I didn't pick up any of them.
In your area do you find any in antique shops?
Jim

Greg · October 13, 2003, 11:51:56 AM

Quotejeepman:
Two Sundays ago while driving threw Maine, I stopped at several antique shops. They each had some T-auger bits for sale, but I didn't pick up any of them.
In your area do you find any in antique shops?
Jim

The problem with buying antique auger bits is the leads threads are almost always worn down to a nub. If the lead threads are gone, you've got nothing but a piece of scrap.

Trust me I've bought several at local auctions and via ebay. They are not hard to find. However, every single one I've tried has been unusable, even after touching up the threads with a small triangle file.

If anyone has a source for good, sharp 1.5 or 2" auger bits, lets talk!

Greg

Jim_Rogers · October 13, 2003, 02:33:37 PM

Greg:
While browsing antique shops for auger bits you have to look at what your buying, and look very closely. As you said some may have bad lead threads.
Now during my walk threw, I found two auger bits but they aren't available for sale, yet. They are being cleaned and sharpened at the moment. And as soon as they are available they will be posted on the "for sale" section.
Along with the other tools I got that day.
They'll be there very soon.
Jim ;)

Jim_Rogers · October 14, 2003, 06:12:43 AM

QuoteWhat I am looking for is tapered square shank with hardwood or softwood leadscrews and spurs. Thanks in advance.

jeepman:
My blacksmith friend says they don't make these in sizes bigger than 1", so you may be out of luck or have to have them special made.
Or get a different style chuck from leevalley or some where, that will take a different style shank and then you can get the bigger size bits to use in a bit brace.
Jim

Jim_Rogers · October 14, 2003, 06:27:16 AM

jeepman:
just got this email from my blacksmith friend:

QuoteJim,

From all that i could find out , the largest augers for a bit brace are 1 1/16 " . I can imagine it is due to the fact that it would be difficult to bore anything larger than that because you can't get enough leverage with a brace. Anything larger would require a t-handled auger or a boring machine. I have some t-handled augers, not sure as yet if i have an duplicates for sale, or if he wants to go that route. Obviously, a boring machine with bits IS the way to go , if possible.

So let me know if you're interested in getting some T-handled augers.
Jim

Squirrell_Boy · October 14, 2003, 12:02:02 PM

A TF Guild member i know bought a the bigger wood boring bits with spurs made by DeWalt 1.5" and 2" and then had the piece welded on by a metal shop to fit so that it would fit into the boring machine. I could contact him for you if that is what you are thinking about doing.

Kevin · October 14, 2003, 04:56:41 PM

This company has brace bits up to 2"dia.

http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/woodworking.html

Jim_Rogers · October 14, 2003, 05:12:15 PM

Kevin:
Thanks for the link.
Nice site.

Now I've learned something today :

Jim

Squirrell_Boy · October 14, 2003, 05:28:53 PM

Thanks Kevin, That beats trying to adapt another bit. The information and advice here is really great. Sometimes you just don't know where to look for stuff.

jeepman · October 14, 2003, 06:49:42 PM

Thanks folks, for your help. I did some boring this weekend (8-1 1/2 X 6" mortices and 1" peg holes) Though 1" is the biggest bit I have for my brace, it was more work to turn than my 1 1/2" T-auger. I'm working some leads in my area for more T-augers and some type of boring machine. I think I can build one from some rear-end gears. Do the older machines have gear reduction or do they just use bevel gears for the right angle trasfer?

Jim_Rogers · October 15, 2003, 08:11:10 AM

jeepman:
My boring machine has 3 1/2" bevel gears. Both are the same size for the right angle transfer.
I think the power is figured by the diameter of the circle created by the handles moving around versus the diameter of the shaft, but I'm not sure about that.
The handles are 7 1/2" long, creating a 15" diameter circle and the shaft is about 5/8".
Maybe someone who knows how to figure the math on this can tell us.
Jim

raycon · October 15, 2003, 08:59:11 AM

My boring machine is like Jims.

There is no gear reduction(bevel gears 1:1) just a stout handle and shafts to transfer arm torque to bit rotation.

The pitch/lead of the bit probably reflects back how much energy the cranker has to put into the boring machine each revolution. A less agressive lead will probably be easier on the arms (less material removal per revolution). Don't know yet cause I just have 1 bit (1" diameter).

jeepman · October 15, 2003, 08:20:10 PM

I just missed a Miller Falls on ebay. There's a sweet looking machine on there now, but they can't read the name. Tell me, if you will, the rack and pinion I'm seeing, is it for rapid traverse? That's the only thing I can figure, it's to raise and lower the head.I assume the lead screw is the only feed on them.

Jim_Rogers · October 16, 2003, 06:49:45 AM

The rack on a boring machine is the up gear.

Once you've finished the hole, such as hole in a mortise, not a threw hole, you need to remove the bit from the stock. The first thing you do is to turn your handles one full turn in reverse. That releases the lead screw from the bottom of the hole. Then you flip the rack gear bar into place and then turn the handles in the proper direction which will lift the boring head up out of the hole.
By reversing the handles one turn you prevent any binding up of the lead screw and tearing out the bottom of the holes. And it makes it much easier to lift the boring head and bit up and out of the beam/stock.
The rack isn't used as any kind of down pressure, as you mentioned the lead screw pulls the bit into the wood.
At least that's the way my boring machine works.
My camera died or I'd take a close up picture of mine for you. I should be getting a replacement camera soon. I was out shopping for one late night. I might get one tonight and then I could take some pictures for you.
Jim

jeepman · November 11, 2003, 05:08:38 PM

I should probably change this thead to bits for boring machine. As of today, I am the proud owner of a Boss double eagle boring machine. I've been fighting the other bidders on Ebay for about a month and finally got one. It came with a small bit but the lead screw is a little damaged so I'm in the market for some 1/2" shank bits.

Jim_Rogers · November 12, 2003, 03:12:30 PM

jeepman:
I recently picked up a couple of extra bits, but they aren't ready to be sold.
Unless, you want to buy them as is.
They aren't really boring machine bits, they are T-auger bits as best I can tell. They have been cleaned and sharpened.
The shank on one is larger than 1/2" but not by much, and the shank on the other one is a little bit smaller.
My plan was to take them to my local machine shop and have him cut off the extra long end and turn the larger one down to 1/2" and make a sleeve for the other one.
But if you'd like to take them off my hands, I'd consider an offer.
One bit is inch and a half, and the other one is inch and a quarter. The inch and a half is the one with the larger shank.
Let me know if you'd like to see a picture of them.
Jim