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Sawmill Trailer Build Update

Started by Timberline, July 29, 2013, 09:58:14 PM

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Timberline

I thought you all would like to see what I've been doing with the sawmill.  Here are some photos of how I am adding the LED trailer lights.  Maybe these photos will be of use to others who are building trailers.   I will try to take more as I go along.

Here's how the cut-outs for the taillights were made.   I used a 2.5" hole saw to cut two holes then cut out the middle with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel.



  


 


 

These are the holes for the side marker lights.  The inner holes are for the wire to pass through the cross  members.



  


  



Here is the rear cross member is tacked into place.


WmFritz

Nice details... are you thinking about capping the ends in the last photo?
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

Timberline

Thanks.  Yes, I do plan on capping them at some point, but how I am not sure.  I was thinking of welding some 14 ga sheet that I have on the ends, but I thought some kind of rubber plug would be even better so I could access the wiring easily.  Not sure if they make plugs that fit in the ends of tube steel.

thecfarm

Looks good. Are the lights going to stick out any? May not be a bad idea to take some flatstock and put a lip over each light.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

rmack

Quote from: thecfarm on July 30, 2013, 05:20:44 AM
Looks good. Are the lights going to stick out any? May not be a bad idea to take some flatstock and put a lip over each light.

He may well be able to find some hss with the right profile... easier to do because it's concentric already. probably not really needed but a nice touch all the same.

Then again, could turn out to be knee knockers...  :)
the foundation for a successful life is being able to recognize what to least expect the most... (anonymous)

Welder Bob
2012 LT40HDSD35 Yanmar Diesel Triple
1972 Patrick AR-5
Massey Ferguson GC2410TLB Diesel Triple
Belsaw Boat Anchor

Timberline

Thats a good question.  The tail lights are almost flush mount, they probably stick out 1/4" so I don't think there's any problem there.  The side markers stick out maybe a 1/2", but I didn't think they would be a problem.  What do think, should I add the flat stock?  I can take some pictures of the lights later.

SPD748

I'd cap the ends with steel. (I always use the same gauge of steel as the tubing I'm capping) If you go this route, be sure and drill a drain hole in the bottom of each tube near the steel cap. If water makes its way into the enclosed tube, it will freeze and cause all kinds of havoc. (I learned the hard way :().

Oh, a little trick about capping steel tube: cut the caps to the size of the inside dimensions of the tubing and leave the corners square. This way, the cap's square corners will catch the radiused corners of the tubing and won't fall into the tubing. With the cap being smaller than the outside dimensions of the tubing, there will be a nice 'notch' for the weld bead to 'lay' making a very smooth finished product.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

Timberline

Thanks.  Speaking of drilling holes to let the water drain out, how else can you keep the inside of the tube steel from rusting?  I would like to figure out how to spray paint inside, but something like ATF would work too.

SPD748

I had this discussion with a fellow fabricator some time ago. My original thought was that if the steel tubing is welded solid and thus sealed water couldn't get inside. Under this condition, there would be no need for a drain hole. Also, in the absence of water, there would be no rust. Now, in real world conditions, welding multiple, out of position joints makes 'sealing' a tube structure somewhat difficult. It can be done with a skilled hand and patience. Once completed, it would need to be pressure tested to ensure a tight seal. The question becomes; Am I willing to double or even triple the fabrication time on a structure that doesn't really require it?

Some years ago, I built a steel bed for an Isuzu NPR truck. The bed was designed to haul commercial lawn mowers. It had sides constructed from 1 1/2" sqr tubing which had a 1/8" wall. During the bed's first winter, water made it's way into the tubing and settled in the lowest portion, near the rear of the bed. This water froze (and expanded) which split the tubing along an 18" section. Lesson learned. A small drain hole would have prevented the damage.

As far as painting the inside of tubing; I've never tried.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

Timberline

I had that thought as well but my 8" bunks stick up 4" to raise the bed enough.  I guess I would have to plug up all of those open areas.  I just talked to guy yesterday that owns a sandblasting business and he said I should have poured the paint in the tube prior to welding up the trailer so I could turn it and get a good coating on everything.  I would think the heat from the welding would burn it off.  But he said what I could do now is pull a sponge through the tube.  Doesn't sound like a bad idea.  With either paint of ATF inside with some drain holes I would think it would work nicely.

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