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New Solar Kiln

Started by Hokiemill, April 24, 2008, 10:11:57 PM

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Hokiemill

Pete, welcome to the forum!  Those double back doors are perfect for what you want to do.... up to a point.  I think it depends on how long your boards will be.  If they get too long then hanging those doors may become a problem.  I believe that's why the Virginia Tech 2000 bdft kiln uses an end door - more suited to kiln cart and tracks.  For 12' boards or shorter, the back doors will make your loading and unloading easy with the loader.

JackLeg

Quote from: tnpete on June 09, 2008, 01:50:16 PM
Hello I like your solar kiln.
I am trying to decide on one to build. Would like to be able to have the whole back be doors like yours. That way I can take the loader and sit a load of lumber that I would have stacked in the shed air drying. Into the kiln and not have to stack it again.
Think that would work?
Any help anyone can give me toward getting started would be great .
Pete

Pete:  I built mine with rear doors (like the new VT plan)and I am really pleased with it.  They doors are heavy and do sag some, but, since they are closed most of the time, it hasn't been a problem. 

I just took out my 2nd charge of cypress lumber.  It was 1" boards, 8' long.  It dried to <20% in 10 days of sunshine, which is fine for what we do with it. 

I have a simple Radio Shack Temp/'RH meter in it.  Highest temp I have seen is 136F.  The kiln is doing a great job of reducing our drying times.  Cypress is very forgiving and loses its moisture quickly.  Oak is another matter.

Hokiemill

My first load is now officially complete.  The sample board weighs out to 7% moisture content.  The total time to dry from about 48% to 7% was 59 days but a couple factors go into why it took so long.  The main reason is that I was experimenting with the vents and opened them all the way after the load reached about 30% mc.  I thought the open vents would allow more moisture to exit, keep the rh down and allow for faster drying.  Not entirely true.  After noticing the slowdown in drying, I shut the vents to only slightly open and the drying rate increased again.  So having higher temps is better than having greater venting in this case.  With the vents almost completely closed, my maximum temp was 148f.

The other factor that I feel slowed the drying rate was my lack of end baffles.  There was plenty of hot air bypassing my stack by going around the ends.  The next load will include some sort of end baffles but I don't know exactly what to use (a new thread for that question).

The final factor in the long time to dry is that most of the lumber was riftsawn and quarter sawn oak which I understand dries slower than plain sawn.

I'm currently searching for logs so I can mill up my next load.  Once the second load is complete, I'll drop in with another report.

WDH

Very interesting.  I await the second load.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

pineywoods

Hokie, looks like you have come to the same conclusion I did about the venting. Openin the vents to exhaust hot humid air just replaces that air with cool wet air. I finally closed off all vents and stuck a small room de-humidifier in there to take out the moisture. Made a huge difference.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

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