Eclassic 2300 air holes blocked

[firechief]

Hello All,

Just noticed at least my 2 front air holes nearest the door on both right and left sides have no air coming out.  Back holes must be doing ok because unit seems to be running smooth.  Have to wait until my wood burns down to completely check other holes. Have not yet done a search on the forum as I know this topic has been brought up before but thought I would throw the question out there.  I guess my fear is that if I try and clear out air holes with a screwdriver, etc. I may do further damage ??  This is my 5th year heating with this unit and have yet to have any blockage problems. Thanks and have a great weekend.
Looking at page 45 of my manual states "If the air outlets become plugged or the flow of air through the outlets is diminished, clean the outlets". No further explanation of how to do this.
Firechief

[buckgrunt]

Hello Firecheif,

I also have a 2300.  I started the season burning a lot of pine, so I got more than usual creostoe build up.    Every other day, I scrape the creosote build-up along the air holes in the fire box with a scraper that looks similar to a garden hoe.  In addition, I have an old ski pole with a slightly bent tip that I used to poke in and around in the air holes to make sure they are clear of creosote.  Hope this helps 

[Roger2561]

Fire chief - I don't have the 2300 but I do have the E-classic 1400.  I've been using a screw driver bent at not quite 90 degrees to clear all of the air holes in my 1400.  This is my 3rd season heating with it and I can't imagine that I'm doing any damage to the it.  The screw driver isn't that large in diameter but it's about 6 inches long.  If you don't want to wait 'til the fire burn down a bit, I simply put the unburned stuff in a safe (metal) container and the hot coals in another safe (metal) container.  I then can stuff my head inside the firebox to clear all of the holes.  When I'm satisfied that the holes are clear, I then take the hot coals and put them back in the firebox along with the unburned pieces of wood to get the fire going again.  Believe me, it won't take long to get the fire going again.  Also, in the back of you OWB where the primary and secondary solenoids are located, make the primary air intake is clear of creosote.  On the 1400's it is susceptible to clogging.  This may not work for you but it work great for me.     Good luck.  Roger

[bobby s]

Hey Firechief,
Old ski poles and a piece of 3/8" threaded rod are my favorite tools to clean out holes. I can't see how you would damage anything doing this.
As far as preventative maintenance goes, I like to have a big ole creasote fire every 4 or 5 days to burn off anything that's accumulated on the back shelf or is covering side air holes. This goes a long way in keeping holes clear.
Good luck.

[JJ]

Hi FireChief,
I also have the e-2300, installed in 08.
When I load wood in morning, when fire is as lowest, I scrape front of holes (both sides and back), and also scrape off the accumulated creosote from the shelf (where fire bricks were), putting the black gue onto the coals near the downdraft hole; pretty much moving the ash away from the holes.
For this, I only use square end spade, and standard fireplace poker (has point on end, and on hook).

If it is only few holes plugged, I would not be too concerned, as firebox is pressurized, so what is most important is downdraft being open.
I find with my unit, the smaller back corner holes on left and right, as well as the back factory holes are often plugged, sometimes making them hard to find.  I do not often see the holes in back I drilled (larger than the factory holes) as they are low and below the coals; but when I do, they are usually open.

        JJ

[firechief]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.  Ive tried unplugging holes with screwdriver but with no luck, also looks like I have next 2 holes now are plugged.
Back holes must be doing double duty as the stove is burning well and running smooth.  I'll keep working on it. Think I may have an old ski pole in attic.

[holder73]

I've wondered the same thing firechief, by gouging the cresote around the holes I wonder if I am packing more into the holes than I am cleaning out.  I have the eclassic 1400 and when I cleaned it out at end of season last year and held the door spring thing closed, I could only feel air coming out the round holes in the back of the firebox, nothing coming out the sides and they were as clean as I could get them with a scredriver and small chisel.  I use a long metal rod to keep the round holes in the back clean and I have the tool that came fro CB to clean the oblong holes on the side while the fire is burning, still don't think I'm getting much air out the sides but the stove is functioning fine, love the cheap heat!

[firechief]

I've cleared out as much as I can with the screwdriver.
Next will be the ski pole and checking the solenoids this weekend.

[Roger2561]

I've wondered the same thing firechief, by gouging the cresote around the holes I wonder if I am packing more into the holes than I am cleaning out.  I have the eclassic 1400 and when I cleaned it out at end of season last year and held the door spring thing closed, I could only feel air coming out the round holes in the back of the firebox, nothing coming out the sides and they were as clean as I could get them with a scredriver and small chisel.  I use a long metal rod to keep the round holes in the back clean and I have the tool that came fro CB to clean the oblong holes on the side while the fire is burning, still don't think I'm getting much air out the sides but the stove is functioning fine, love the cheap heat!

Hello Holder, Like you, I too have the 1400.  The first year of operation was a steep learning curve for me.  This is my 3rd season with it.  Growing up we always had a wood stove in the living room but this beast is such a different animal altogether.  One very cold January morning, 1:30amish, the fire went out.  It had gone out a couple of times earlier during the day.  That should have been my clue something was up.  With the conventional wood stove in the living room, seldom did we have to worry about air holes.  On this cold January morning I finally figured out they were plugged tighter than drum.  It spent 3 hours using a bent screwdriver at not quite a 90 degree angle to clear every one of the dang things.  Once I did it operated just it did when I first fired her up the previous Oct.  Every other week, very early on a Saturday morning I remove all of the hot coals into an non combustible container (metal) to be re-used to rekindle the OWB once I have cleaned all of those holes.  You have to really get your head inside the firebox to get an idea just how plugged they can get.  It's dirty job.  And hot too.  No matter how cold the ambient temps are, it hotter than heck inside the firebox.  You will sweat.  Once I'm satisfied the holes are clear, I empty the reaction chamber.  Generally I can probably go another week before emptying it but what the heck, I'm there so... After that I check the primary air solenoid and elbow for creosote build up.  If not checked at least once a month, mine will clog.  Once that's done, I put the hot coals back inside the firebox, toss some 3 to 4 inch diameter pieces on it, keep the reaction chamber door open a bit to cause a nice up draft (this will help rekindle the wood).  Once the fire is going strong, I close the reaction chamber door, close the by-pass door and watch the temp rise in the water jacket.  All of this may seem it takes forever to do, but once have a system down, it won't take much longer than a 1/2 hour.  This may not work for you so good luck with whatever you do.  Roger  PS:  Ain't the free cheap nice?     

[beenthere]

The logrite hookaroon might just be the ticket for cleaning those holes..  ;)

[Ohiowood]

I had to clean out the area in the back corner where the air has to turn the corner to get to the side holes. Heavy bent coat hanger back and forth with a shop vac sucking up the crap that comes out. Work really good could not believe how much came out.

[Roger2561]

OhioWood - Those corners are the achilles heal on my 1400.  But, if you stay with it and run a piece of wire through the hole and around the corner, it's just a few minutes of time to keep them open.  Roger

[holder73]

Roger2561, can you describe to me where the primary air solenoid and elbow is at?  I am on my second season with my Eclassic 1400 and I have never cleaned this area, I figure it's in dire need after reading your posts, sorry for the ignorance on this, but like you said it is a steep learning curve, if it weren't for me finding this forum last winter I probably would've had a lot of problems, but happy to say I haven't, my fire only went out twice last year and once so far this year, all of those due to my own error of trying to put to much wood in and having to thick of coal/ash bed in firebox, blocking up airflow.  I have found that it really does work best to let your wood load burn down to coals and even let the coals burn down to keep the depth of the coals/ash at a good working level, before loading it up with wood.  I also try to keep my wood load small and in the center of the box on warm days.  I've been running my 1400 since the 3rd week of August to heat the domestic hot water, you really learn alot about its operation when you try running it when it's still hot outside, no heat load requirements from the furnace.
Thanks for all the great information here guys!

[Ohiowood]

Holder

How much have you burned so far and how much a year do you burn?

Thanks

[Roger2561]

Roger2561, can you describe to me where the primary air solenoid and elbow is at?  I am on my second season with my Eclassic 1400 and I have never cleaned this area, I figure it's in dire need after reading your posts, sorry for the ignorance on this, but like you said it is a steep learning curve, if it weren't for me finding this forum last winter I probably would've had a lot of problems, but happy to say I haven't, my fire only went out twice last year and once so far this year, all of those due to my own error of trying to put to much wood in and having to thick of coal/ash bed in firebox, blocking up airflow.  I have found that it really does work best to let your wood load burn down to coals and even let the coals burn down to keep the depth of the coals/ash at a good working level, before loading it up with wood.  I also try to keep my wood load small and in the center of the box on warm days.  I've been running my 1400 since the 3rd week of August to heat the domestic hot water, you really learn alot about its operation when you try running it when it's still hot outside, no heat load requirements from the furnace.
Thanks for all the great information here guys!

Holder, In the rear of the 1400 you'll see 2 panels that go from mid point to the bottom of the OWB.  Remove them.  Now, on the left you'll see the blower with the squirrel cage attached to it.  You'll see the blower attached the upright box.  Open that upright box.  Inside on the left is the primary air solenoid and elbow assembly.  The elbow and solenoid are attached to one another and connected to the nipple by a stainless hose clamp.  Before you remove the hose clamp, make sure you turn off the Firestar controller.  If you don't and you unplug the solenoid it could short.  Unplug the 2 leads going to the solenoid and loosen the hose clamp enough to remove the elbow assembly from the nipple.  Look inside the elbow and the nipple that's attached to the OWB.  You'll be surprised by the amount of creosote that collects in both items.  Do your best to remove the creosote from both places.  After you're satisfied that it's as clean as it'll go, put them back on the nipple, tighten the hose lamp and plug the solenoid back in.  The 2 other solenoids are for the secondary burn and I'd be surprised if you found any creosote in them.  It wouldn't to be on the safe side and check them out. 

The plate that's bolted to the solenoid, is it regular cold roll steel or stainless steel, plus the nut and bolt hold the plate to the solenoid.  About 2 weeks ago the creosote had eaten away the nut that was attached to the bolt causing the plate on the primary solenoid not to open.  It snuffed out the fire.  The house was chilly when I go home from work.  As quick fix, I replaced the nut, bolt and lock washer with stainless steel ones.  I'm waiting for the stainless steel plate from Metals Depot to arrive so I can cut out new plates to replace them with the stainless steel.  The one on the OWB is getting rather thin so I'm quite sure the mild steel is being eaten up the creosote.  You may want to check this on your OWB, especially the nut, lock washer and bolt.  Please post back your findings so others' can learn too.  Roger     

[holder73]

Ohiowood, I didn't get my 1400 up and going until mid Feb. last year and we also had a pretty mild winter in the NC mountains so I don't have a good feel on how much I burn a year yet.  I can tell you that I have a 6' x 10' trailer with 2' sides that I load rounded up in the center, tossed in not stacked, and I have burned 2 trailer loads since 3rd week in Aug., probably didn't start heating house til late Oct. but our Nov. has been more like January this year, lots of cold nights and days.  I grew up with and my dad still has the old large water stove, with no automatic drafts that eats wood like crazy and I am amazed at how efficient my 1400 is with the wood, I usually get 12 to 15 hour burn times on about 6 to 8 pieces of split dry oak with lows in 20's or teens and high in 40's, and the house is as warm as I want it to be and love the hot water with the wife and 3 kids and myself all taking showers.  I thinking no more than a cord of wood a month in the coldest months.

Roger, thanks for the information on the air solenoids, I'm scared to think what mine are gonna look like, but I plan to work on these asap, probably Friday after turkey day tomorrow.  Thanks for all the good information and recommendation, I will definitely report back what I find.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[Ohiowood]

Holder,

Thanks for the info, I'm probably at the same amount of wood. Cold also here in Ohio.

[Roger2561]

Holder & Ohiowood;  I'm using about the same amount of every 12 hours.  It's amazing how little wood these things use.  I used to heat with a wood stove in my living room (it's the only room that stayed warm) and would go through about the same amount of wood every 12 hours but by the time I got home from work about 10 to 11 hours later, the firewood was reduced to small coals and no heat in the house.  I hated coming home to a cold house.  Now, I put in about the same as you guys do every 12 hours so when I get home or get out of bed in morning the house is toasty warm and the oil furnace not running.  Believe it not, it took me a few days to get used to NOT hearing the oil furnace running.  It freaked me out.  Roger 

[JJ]

Another tip for clean out, when you take main solenoid boot off to unplug or end of season; is to shove the shop vac hose in on blow (instead of vac), and stand well clear of the crap that comes flying out.

         JJ

[Roger2561]

Thanks for the great tip, JJ.  I've got to remember that one.  Roger

[holder73]

Below are a series of pictures I made of my experience cleaning the primary and secondary air solenoids on my eclassic 1400 today, first is the inside of the solenoid box, then the primary solenoid elbow and nipple before cleaning, both after cleaning, the secondary elbow and nipple before cleaning, and last a picture of what came out of the primary nipple (part that elbow attaches to) on a piece of newspaper.



 


  

  

  

  

  

 

Thanks Roger for the good info. and directions on cleaning these, I had never cleaned these solenoid elbows and nipples out since I got my eclassic, I started it up middle of Jan. 2013 and ran through May, started it back up in mid Aug. and been running til present.  As you can see in the pics the primary solenoid elbow and nipple were really gunked up with cresote, owb was still functioning fine but as you can see by the elbow, it would've eventually stopped up completely, no air would equal no fire.  Again, valuable information gained here on this forum that prevented some major problems, enjoying a warm house tonight.

[holder73]

JJ I am asking for a new shop vac for Christmas, definitely will give the blowing into the primary solenoid a try, from alot of tips I've read here the shop vac will come in handy for cleaning the owb.

Roger I also am posting some pics of my primary solenoid plate and screws front and back, are these the ones you had to replace, mine look good, like new, if these are the ones you were talking about.

  

 

[holder73]

Roger2561, I went back and read your previous post and I think I figured out the bolt you were talking about was the one that goes through  the spring loaded lid that the solenoid open and closes to allow air to flow in to the firebox.  I did remove the spring and clean inside this lid and that bolt did look a little rough, I will have to take a closer look at it next time I'm cleaning the elbow and see about replacing it.

[Roger2561]

Holder73 - Great pics of before and after cleaning the primary elbow.  Your dirtiest one was actually clean compared to mine when I removed it.  I think there was a hole about 1/2" diameter for the air to pass through before I cleaned it.  Also, I'll take a pic of the plate that came with it on mine after I change it to the stainless steel.  I hope I can capture the amount of corrosion on it.  It is getting thin.  Regarding the secondary elbows on my E1400; they had minimal creosote buildup in them when I inspected them at the end of the heating season last year.  Generally, I will not have to touch those until I shut her down for the summer.  Roger 

[firechief]

Holder73 - Thanks for the great pictures.  For sure something to take a close look at.