Another Option for Kiln Cart and Rails?

[Glenn1]

I am getting ready to build my kiln cart with rails.  I already have 6 steel wheels that are capable of handling 6,000 lbs each.  Their measurements are 6" x 3" with roller bearings.  They are more than capable to handle any load that I can throw at it.  I believe that this is the same method that Dr. Wengert was alluding to in a previous post. 





Here's my question.  Below are drawings that Nyle recommends using a V wheel running on an inverted angle iron.  Since I already have 6 smooth wheels, I'd like to know what you think of this design.

Using C channel to run the length of the cart and mounting the wheels on the outside of the channel.  Then install I beams large enough to house the wheels (probably 8" in height) so the wheels run in the I beam.  I will be pushing and pulling the load with my forklift and I think that this method will avoid any chance of me jumping the angle iron track. 

I could use some opinions.

[Tom the Sawyer]

Glenn1,

I'm planning to use two angles (with one side vertical) the length of the kiln to keep the cart wheels in place.  Where did you find wheels that small with 6000 pound capacity?

[Glenn1]

Hi Tom,

I don't remember offhand the name of the company but I have it at home.  Presently, I am in Asheville, NC.  Caster City also sells them but I paid approximately $45 each and Caster Cities price wants $79 for each one.  I can get you the name of the company when I return home tomorrow evening.

Glenn



For the time being, here is Caster Cities web page:

http://www.castercity.com/forgedw.htm#Table - Casters

[Ga_Boy]

I used two pieces of 3" angle iron where Nyle specs two pieces of 4" channel iron.  My cart was 18 feet long, I had 8 casters on each side, one side had grooved casters to ride on the top of 1.5" angle
To determine the load of each caster, I determined the weight of  2MBF of green white oak, then divided by 16 (number of casters on cart).  This determined what weight capacity of each caster.  Consider getting casters with zero fittings, and use a high temperature grease.  Th axels for each caster was a .75" stainless steel bolt with a lock nut.  Instead of using the wood bunks to tie the two sides of the cart together, I used 1.5" angle iron and welded it in place.  This allows you to make adjustments to the bunks to sit each lumber pack on.  My fork lift did not have side shift on the carriage, so being able to adjust each bunk saved time by not having to be precise each time I sat a kiln charge on the cart. 

As Gene mentioned, you will have to build a removable bridge between the chamber and track that is out side the kiln.

Now,   When you stack lumber, set up a bunk with sticker supports in the same configuration (distances between each) as your kiln cart.  I used a forklift to move lumber packs from the stacking bunk to the kiln cart.

Two ways to get the cart in the kiln.  I used my tractor with a fork lift attachment on the front-end loader.  I moved the forks to the middle and pushed the cart in to the chamber.  Another option is to anchor a pulley inside the kiln.  Attach one end of the line to the cart, Then run the line inside the kiln around the pulley and to your forklift/tractor/support equipment.  Then pull the cart in to the chamber. 

Weld a stop to the track system in the kiln so you do not run the cart off the end of the track.

Regarding keeping the cart on the track when the cart is loaded; I never had an issue with the cart trying to jump the track.  To align the angle iron, I used string to lay it as straight as I could then welded it in place. 

Hopefully this is not too confusing. 





Mark