Board and Batten material?

[Brad_bb]

Trying to decide on siding material. Vertical B&B left to gray naturally, rough sawn on a house and garage/workshop.

In central Indiana. Some are telling me EWP will work well, cost is good, easy to install. Others saying Easter White Cedar is the way to go.

Pro's for EWP - lower cost, easier installation, stable.
cons for EWP - Pitch will bleed in direct sun, not rot or insect resistant. Will Rot be a real problem on siding or will it dry quickly and last a long time? Will insects really attack it? There will be 18 inches of stone from the ground up before the siding starts so you won't get splashing at the ground.

Pro's for EWC - More rot and insect resistant, no pitch bleeding
Con's for EWC - Cost 2-3 times more than EWP so I'm being told. I've already priced EWP at .90/linear foot in 12".

Any experience help appreciated.

[beenthere]

Did you move to Indiana?

Siding will be...
On a house?
Painted?
B&B ?
Horizontal?
Rough sawn?

[WDH]

Many buildings over the ages in the US have been sided with pine.  Given the rock foundation protecting the siding from contact from the ground and preventing wicking up moisture, I would not hesitate to use it. 

[4x4American]

EWP say me

[razor]

Well i've used both, as well as WRC for B&B on various buildings. No real problems with either one. They all perform equally well. If you have good air circulation and good ground clearance as you say it will last for decades, even the pine.
The key, in my opinion, to long lasting B&B in addition to the ability to dry is proper installation. The boards need to be nailed in a way that allows shrinking and expansion. One nail in the centre of boards 8" wide or less and 2 nails at the 3rds in wider boards. Leave a 1/4" gap between and drive one nail in the batten through the gap. Done this way, everything can move seasonally without splitting due to constrictive nailing
I've sawn my own B&B for years and always saw my boards a full 1" thick and the battens 3/4". I like the look better than 1" thick battens which make the siding look bulky IMO.

[Brad_bb]

Razor, what type/size of nail is preferred?

[beenthere]

For what it is worth, I use deck screws rather than nails.

Nails work themselves loose over time, due to wood movement. Screws stay put and the deck ones do not rust and cause a dark streak.

[razor]

3" galvanized ardox, the extra length works for the battens cuz you lose an inch there. I suppose ring shanked stainless would work also but i have no experience using them.
I've really not had an issue with nails working themselves loose, maybe I've been lucky. I have considered screws but i just don't like the look of the screw heads with the B&B. Seems to clash with "old school" look i like. But that's just me.

[thecfarm]

I like galvanized nails. I guess lumber, nails and weather is different here in Maine. Those galvanized nails in the horse run in don't work themselves loose. No black streak either. But has only been up about 10 years too. Ever try to pull a galvanized nail out? I myself do not build anything with regular nails, galvanized only. Now if I plan on taking it apart, regular nails, or sheet-rock screws is used.

[thechknhwk]

I was thinking about using exterior trim screws on the batten to minimize the appearance of the head....

[petefrom bearswamp]

Pine should be fine pun intended.
I have 2 buildings, one sided with pine, the other Hemlock, but both are stained.
the pine is lap siding the other B&B.
No appreciable movement with the B&B after 9 yrs.
the Hemlock was partially air dried when but on.
Nails are Ardox, no loose ones.
Razor, I like your batten idea, may try that for my customers.

[Brian_Weekley]

Pine should be fine pun intended.

A pun would be fun, but I'll give you a dime if it's more than a rhyme.
An Ardox nail will withstand the hail, but those board and bats take a lot of whacks.
I hate to stain—what a pain, but if it looks good I probably would.
When you're done with that pine, you deserve some fine wine.   :D

Sorry, I didn't sleep well last night... :