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Swapping from cooks to Wood Mizer, should I?

Started by vfauto, September 11, 2020, 05:56:56 AM

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vfauto

I have a cooks cats claw sharpener and do not have the best luck with it in the setter. I am thinking of going with a fully automated wood miser. I will listen to any input

 

 

  or interest in my set up.
The definition of insanity is to do the same things over and over and expect a different result!

dgdrls


vfauto

With the grinder I don't like the idea of having to shape the stone and readjust the height as the stone wares down.As far as the setter it's very inconsistent and I only use it once every six months so it's like learning all over again. I do not think there is anything wrong with either unit it is just me not using it often enough.
The definition of insanity is to do the same things over and over and expect a different result!

moodnacreek

All setters are not created equal but how do you get away from dressing stones?

Stephen1

How many blades are you going thru in a year? 
It might be better to sell the cooks, use the money, and send you blades to a resharp. I know If I only had to sharpen/set every 6 months or so, I am not going thru many blades. 
I have the WM BMS250 and dual seter. It works great. The CBN grinding wheel is the best. No shaping any stones. Once I learned the setter, which took quite a while, i'm good to go. I would still rather go fishing or golfing than sharpen any day. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

YellowHammer

I had the same setup as you.  Cooks setter and sharpener.  Both worked fine, but I did not "bond" with them, although I spent a lot of time with them.  I sold both and now have WM equipment.  Sharpening has become a non event, too easy, setting a non event also. 

If you have the money, "Do it."   
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

terrifictimbersllc

I have BMS250 and BMT250. Had earlier shop series versions. Much better.  I would only recommend a CBN
 sharpener and a setter that has gauges.

If you're ever down to Mystic I can show you mine. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: moodnacreek on September 11, 2020, 06:12:51 PM
All setters are not created equal but how do you get away from dressing stones?
CBN is a coating deposited on a steel wheel.  So shape doesnt change. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Wintergreen Mountain

   I have the Cooks Cat Claw and Dual tooth setter.
     I have to shape Stones only 1 time before replacing them. Also remember you will have to adjust every blades depth of grind and angle. They are all at different stages of wear..
   The dual setter takes some fine tunning to get it to it's best profomance, but once it is tuned in,it is unbeatable.
   I would play with them a little longer before abandoning them.

   Leon
1920 Ford 4x4 tractor, forks & bucket. 2010 36" Turner Mills band mill. Cat-Claw blade sharpener. Cat-Claw Dual Tooth Setter. Cat D3 crawler dozer. Cat 215c excavator, Ford L9000 dump truck. Gardner Denver 190 portable air compressor. KatoLight 40Kw trailer mounted gen set. Baker M412 4-head planer.

Banjo picker

I got the Cooks system you have.  I doubt I'll ever change sharpeners, though from what the guys that use them on here say the woodmizer is probably better.  I can get a blade so sharp it will hurt you...so I am not gonna change.

The dual tooth setter is another animal....I haven't got good with it, and I doubt it will ever come close to the single tooth setter (that I still have and will have) as far as accuracy.  I made one of Chucks desetters and that does help....some.  I have my customers spoiled,  they don't think they should have to plane boards.  Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

hersnsh#590

TK 1600, small sugaring operation, a bench full of J'reds, a tired ford 1710, new to us JD 5065e, 2 Honda 4 whlrs, a Can-Am 580 on tracks, and a very understanding wife.

Banjo picker

Sure, but you need to check out @Chuck White s origional.  Mines pretty crowded where they are now I got them mounted on 1/4 inch steel plate and held in place with a c clamp.  Someday maybe they will have a permanent home.  Just pull the band through a couple times.  I used a Frost conveyer rollers.  They was about $45.00 for the pair.

 

You owe me one I went out in the rain to get those pictures.🙂
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Banjo picker

If the original poster only sets every 6 months.   A single tooth would suffice ,and is easy to learn.  Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Chuck White

Quote from: hersnsh#590 on September 12, 2020, 08:02:10 PM
Any pictures of "Chuck's desetters"?

Dale
Here's a pic of the desetter that I had made!
You did a good job on yours, Tim!


~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Banjo picker

Thanks Chuck, you deserve all the credit.   :)  Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

farmfromkansas

If you want to sell your Cooks equipment, list it in the for sale section.  I am watching the ads.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

boonesyard

I don't want to get off topic, but had a similar sharpener/setter question. We've been using the Resharp service, but the shipping costs and current unknowns/shipping time frames have made this option less cost effective. I'm going through more blades than ever (funny how that works) and have decided to order a BMS250 and also looking at the BMT200 or 250 to keep the control in house. My question is, is the $700 worth it for full automation over the manual crank on the setter? I know it all comes down to time and what it's worth, but I really don't know how long it really takes to set a blade? Also, I know it's been discussed before, but what's the consensus on whether to set or sharpen first??

Thanks
LT50 wide
Riehl Steel Edger
iDRY Standard kiln
BMS 250/BMT 250
JD 4520 w/FEL
Cat TH255 Telehandler
lots of support equipment and not enough time

"I ain't here for a long time, I'm here for a good time"

ladylake


  Set first then sharpen , keeps the teeth square with the blade. I'd go with manual crank setter, then you can keep a eye on how it's setting.  Sometimes you get a broken tooth or something else the get the setter out of sequence which would really mess the blade up if your not watching.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

YellowHammer

Everybody has their own way, and you will develop yourself.

However, I'd go fully automated.  I posted a video on how to fine tune the setter so it does a better than new job, and shows preset, set and post set measurements in single stroke.  

Setting a band with an auto setter takes about 2 to 3 minutes.  It should set to within a couple thousandths.  I've had a hand crank setter, never again.  

I'm a big fan of sharpening then setting, for two reasons.  On is that the measurements of the set are taken from the tooth corner, so if the corner is dull and not fully formed, it's measuring off a bogus point and can add a few thousandths of error and frustration.  A CBN wheel does the same profile all the time, every time, so I use that to my advantage.  Fully form the tooth by sharpening, then measure off it for the set.  

The second reason I sharpen then set is that many times I don't set at all.  This is something I can only do with an accurate CBN but I can kiss the tooth so accurately, I can sharpen the edge corner and only take a whisker out of the set.  So I may drop the set from .025 to .022, which is the WM standard set on most bands.  
When the band I dull, I reset everything to .025".  It sometimes (not always) takes two passes, one to sharpen, the second to dial in and "home in" on the corner, but I don't care, everything's automated.  





YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

boonesyard

Thanks, I need to make the decision and get it done this week.

Woodmizer is crazy busy right now. Mills, parts and blades are all sold and out a long way. 
LT50 wide
Riehl Steel Edger
iDRY Standard kiln
BMS 250/BMT 250
JD 4520 w/FEL
Cat TH255 Telehandler
lots of support equipment and not enough time

"I ain't here for a long time, I'm here for a good time"

Stephen1

I agree with YH. Fully Automatic.  If you are doing any quantity of blades, it's worth the upgrade to Auto. 
I now sharpen and then set with the CBN wheel.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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