What years did they have the crankshaft bearing issues? This saw is from 2007.
Pulling off the 7 pin 404 drive sprocket and putting on a 7 pin 3/8 drive sprocket. Plan to use a 24" .058 bar and chain. Any comments on bar pitch or gauge? Just a firewood and felling saw for red and white oaks. I have no saws that use a 404 chain.
It has one felling Dog on the inboard side. Was planning on leaving it this way. I noted the screws securing the felling dog were all finger tight and the marks on the case would indicate the dog was vibrating in a loose condition for some time. What should I torque the felling dog screws to? Should I apply some blue loctite to the threads. I also found all three screws that secure the plastic plate for the choke rod (under the carb) where not there. Found the screws in the saws plastic upper body cavity. The guy I bought the saw from said he was running a 3/8 chain on it, but I found the drive sprocket was a 404. He was also running a Stihl bar with some spacer washer items to hold the Stihl bar secure to the smaller diameter Husqvarna bar mount studs. I am thinking this saw was a vibration nightmare for the engine and bar. Should I use loctite on these small screws that hold the plastic parts together? I have never needed to do this on other saws before.
I inspected the clutch bearing and it looks dry. I don't think it has been getting greased for a long time. Bought a new bearing and confirmed the grease passage is clear in the shaft.
Anything else I should inspect? Issues with the 385XP?
A typical, not very well maintained saw. I would use the blue Loctite going back because screws/bolts that vibrate a long time in a threaded hole tend to wallow the hole at least slightly.
For torque specs if you can't find them, Goggle it for the size and pitch of the screw/bolt.....will be in inch/lbs, that small. Do a vac and pressure test of the seals, cylinder base, boot etc. Or lacking the tester, do the brake cleaner test. There's non-flammable brake cleaner out there.
Good luck!
Kevin
I was only going to install the inboard felling dog, is there any reason or benefit to having two felling dogs on a saw?
It's a pro production thing really. Helps keep the saw from tilting on your felling cuts. Only a slight aid in bucking.
If the clutch cover isn't designed for one, I've never tried to re-engineer it. Not that big of a deal. My Jonsereds 80/90's don't have the clutch cover dawgs and they've taken down a lot of timber. My Husky 2100's always had the two dawgs and my Jonsered 2094 has two.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin, I will leave it with one. I am installing a new oil pump on it today and a new chain catcher. Trying to rescue this 385XP. I was not told the whole truth about this saw. But I hope to get it fixed up and cutting again.
What I forgot to mention is that I usually pattern a new dawg that is bigger and more aggressive for the larger saws. Once I get the OE hole pattern traced, I usually copy the Husky 2100 dawg.
Kevin
The saw is up and running. will put it to work Sunday and see how it holds up. I replaced the chain catcher, oil pump, oil discharge pipe, drive gear and clutch bearing. So many of the screws were loose on the saw. And I am talking finder tight. I'm thinking some one did not know what they were doing. Looks as if they were having major trouble keeping a chain on the saw.
I have a friend that clears trails with other ATV-ers. A lot of the folks never sharpen their chains......anything is possible with chainsaw ownership.::)
I bought a J'reds 90 from Arkansas once.....before collectors drove up all the prices on eBay. Didn't pay a lot, even with shipping. Was sold as a 'parts saw'. Opened the box and it was so filthy, I thought it had been ridden hard and put away wet. I let it sit in a box for over a yr until I got to it. Once cleaned up however, I could see it was a low hr saw. One bar stud hole was stripped, along with a few other holes. Gas varnish molasses in the tank. That took lacquer thinner and BB's. New fuel & vent line, new crank seals, carb kit etc.
Once I got through all that, it ran like a new saw. It's the easiest starting and most steady running saw I own. After it's warmed up I just pull the starter rope about half way out and she fires.
Ya never know...... 8)
Kevin
Exactly my experience with my adventure. "Ya never know". Some of these saws are just fueled up and away they go, others simple fixes, others stripped for parts.
After church we'll see how the 385xp likes to cut.
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You are allowed church services?
Yes, one Saturday night and two Sunday morning. 1/4 capacity up till a few months ago, now 1/2 capacity. So max 400 per service. Every other pew is roped off. Families seated together. Masks required. One way in and one way out.
Only ran one tank of fuel. But so far so good. That bar and chain I had around, it seems a good match for this saw. The 385xp came with no bar or chain when I got the saw. Previous owner was running a Stihl bar. He said he was running a 3/8 chain, but the drive sprocket I found on the saw was a 404. Evidence on the saw showed damage from a derailed chain. The photos are of the pump with adjuster torn off. Oil pump drive gear damage. The clutch side cover was a mess.
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You did a nice job there! Looks good. Tested out one of the 394's today here.
Your thread and adventures with the 394 and 395 is what got me wanting a bigger Husqvarna. So you get enabling points.
You can see the Nick in the oil discharge tube.
Quote from: DHansen on March 14, 2021, 08:58:07 PM
Your thread and adventures with the 394 and 395 is what got me wanting a bigger Husqvarna. So you get enabling points.
Right on! That type of enabling is the good kind. Looking good there. I love these big cube saws. Did some work with the 262xp today and that one gets pretty high marks as well.
The photo you posted of you 262 showed it to be a well cared for saw. Hope you wiped it down good after using it today. Some day I like to find a nice condition 288 or 298.
I'm on the hunt for a 288 as well. Have a pretty good lead and hopes. I got a parts 298 that I saved some parts off of. Good cylinder and a few odds and ends same parts on the 2100 mostly if my short memory serves correctly
I've ran the 385/390's for a lot of years the only main issue I can think of I've had with them is loosing a bearing pocket on one. The 385 was able to pull a 42 when needed for falling when I didn't feel like packing the 395 out or it was was wearing the 60.
Yes, the 298 is a parts donor to a decent 2100.
Kevin
Was thinking about a new thread, but as the 2100 and the 298 has already been mentioned, I have a few questions.
What is a 298xp selling for these days in running condition with bar and chain?
This has the stronger 2100 starter assembly installed.
Used condition, not mint or collector condition. One you would not be afraid to use and get dirty.
Quote from: DHansen on March 16, 2021, 08:33:29 PM
Was thinking about a new thread, but as the 2100 and the 298 has already been mentioned, I have a few questions.
What is a 298xp selling for these days in running condition with bar and chain?
This has the stronger 2100 starter assembly installed.
Used condition, not mint or collector condition. One you would not be afraid to use and get dirty.
To me it depends how stock the saw is. If it's had a bunch of work done or things mickey moused on it it loses points quick. Compression feel good? My guess would be starting around $300 for the bottom range of a running saw and go up from there. There's a real nice 2100 for sale on the coast for around $800 Canadian at present.
Prices in the USA are definitely higher than up here but it is changing as "word gets out" lol.
There was a mint 2100 clutch cover/chain brake that recently sold on ebay down there for $750.00 Canadian, crazy stupid imo. There definitely is a bit of craziness about it at times. I have fun with it and shake my head at times regarding some of the prices. Personally I am very far ahead of things in that regard and plan to keep it that way. Won't get caught in any hype, but some things get tempting at times.
Edit: I'm talking Canadian funds
Quote from: DHansen on March 16, 2021, 08:33:29 PM
Was thinking about a new thread, but as the 2100 and the 298 has already been mentioned, I have a few questions.
What is a 298xp selling for these days in running condition with bar and chain?
This has the stronger 2100 starter assembly installed.
Used condition, not mint or collector condition. One you would not be afraid to use and get dirty.
Like Don said, there's craziness in the big vintage Huskies. Just stay away from it if you can. They're being bought and traded for ridiculous prices.
If you could find a 2100 that needed parts and you could 'steal' a 298....that would be a win/win, because you can feed parts into the 2100 from the 298. The 298 was nothing special......like a 2100 in a bar fight that had its ears cut off. Husky thought they had a 'better idea' with that saw and marketing, but it didn't work for them.
In my estimation, it wasn't a significant achiever or participant in the woods at the time. Be better to own a 1100CD, a 2100CD, a 2101XP and a 394XP etc.
Kevin
Thanks for the information. I will pass on this one. As I like to use my stuff and not into a shelf queen. Neat to see and talk about, but just not what I need. Will keep an eye out for a 394xp or 395xp. But NEED may be the wrong word to use.
Well, I started out with the 'goal' to have two nice 2100's, two nice J'reds 80's and two nice J'reds 90's. That was it. This 'adventure' has taken me further than that. I have the above saws, but they're not all running yet because I got distracted by other models and not enough time on the bench. I had hoped to retire by now, but that ain't happening.::)
So as far as "need".....that ship has sailed. :)
Kevin
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In the photos you can tell the fuel tank has a different color to it. Is that stock or a sign of an aftermarket fuel tank? Is it meant to be a see the fuel level design? If it is with my eyes I need the help of the sun to see the fuel level in the fuel tank.
I don't think that you should be able to see the fuel level. Walt has made many comments about AM fuel tanks and they seem to be rightfully derogatory about them, from an overall perspective. Fit/finish and outstanding seems when those should be smooth so as not to cause undue hand irritation for the long hours that a pro saw was originally designed to be used.
BUT, if YOU are satisfied, then go with it. Personal preference is what it is.
So do you think that fuel tank is OEM or aftermarket?
If it's oem it'll have Husky markings on it. Where on that particular saw I wouldn't know
Don, on the starter side of the fuel tank, under the bottom edge of the starter cover, the fuel tank says made in Sweden. I am thinking it is OEM. Thanks for the idea to look for markings.
If it's made in Sweden it could a replacement. A part number on it would help but would probly have to take it off to see
Okay, part number on the fuel tank handle assembly is 537-00-04 and when I search that number a fuel tank for the 385xp- and 390xp comes up. So the odd color must happen as it is aging, and you can see the fuel level in the tank if there is sun or light on the opposite side from your point of view. Not sure if that was the intent or not.
Looks like a genuine part then. First I've seen of a tank that the fuel level can be seen through it. Google might help with others chiming in
I haven't had a Husky with the plastic fuel tank yet, so I can't weigh in on this. My Jonsered 2094 has the mag tank and it's my newest saw.
Kevin
Quote from: DHansen on March 18, 2021, 01:50:07 AM
Okay, part number on the fuel tank handle assembly is 537-00-04 and when I search that number a fuel tank for the 385xp- and 390xp comes up. So the odd color must happen as it is aging, and you can see the fuel level in the tank if there is sun or light on the opposite side from your point of view. Not sure if that was the intent or not.
My stock 385 tank looks exactly like that and they always did.
Thanks Skeans1